1990 Marlin Floor

[Tatt00z]

Good morning everyone, I purchased and 90 Marlin a few years ago. The previous owner drilled holes in the center deck, Im guessing to keep it secure. I decided to pull it up and redo the wood. The screws just go through the fiberglass and not the wood. So I thought maybe the wood shrank after 32 years. When I got the floor panel to my shop and separated the wood from the fiberglass, I didn't see any screw holes in the wood. So I guess my question is ,how is the floor panel attach to the boat? Do they use screws, or glue the middle panel that covers the gas tank to the shelf that the it fits in to? And whats a good product to use to fill in the holes that were used to secure it from the previous owner.
TIA Glen

 

[Fishtales]

Hi,
Screws are used on the edges go through glass and into glass. Rubber strips are placed between the contact areas. Then the edge is sealed with GE Almond color Silicone. The wood didn't shrink, it was designed that way with the wood to be the coring material.
If you are pulling all the wood out, then you need a coring material. I just did this on a deck and will attach the thread. I used 1/2" coosa board for the core. You can use wood or a composite material. I taped the holes on the gelcoat side and used fiberglass filler and resin to fill the cavities. I redrilled the holes and used the same mounting holes in the deck as before. I then sealed with the silicone. Pretty easy job to do.

 

[Fishtales]

Marlin 300 Aft Deck Cover Repair

I noticed a little brown water dripping from my small cockpit deck piece that resides under the rear seat (when seat folded down) when putting the boat away for the season. The deck piece has an access port as well as a vertical door that swings down to allow access to the aft bilge area. It is...

www.greatgrady.com

 

[Tatt00z]

Hi,
Screws are used on the edges go through glass and into glass. Rubber strips are placed between the contact areas. Then the edge is sealed with GE Almond color Silicone. The wood didn't shrink, it was designed that way with the wood to be the coring material.
If you are pulling all the wood out, then you need a coring material. I just did this on a deck and will attach the thread. I used 1/2" coosa board for the core. You can use wood or a composite material. I taped the holes on the gelcoat side and used fiberglass filler and resin to fill the cavities. I redrilled the holes and used the same mounting holes in the deck as before. I then sealed with the silicone. Pretty easy job to do.

I pulled the wood from the fiberglass, and it is 5/8 inch, and when it comes to the looks like they routed out a little material on the hole so the indentd from the holes fit flush. If I use 1/2 inch core, wont the floor be 1/16 inch lower than the rest of the floor? Thanks for your resonse, I'd love to see the thread on the floor you just did.

 

[Fishtales]

See above, I just sent it. I'd recore it with what was in there. Mine had 1/2" wood (almost looked like parquet flooring) and the outer glass lip was prob 1/4" longer. This is what made contact to the liner not the core. Not sure on your boat.

 

[Tatt00z]

Yes, mine is 5/8 I ordered 1/2 inch, thats what I measured at the port hole, but they cut the hole for the port cover, then they took another 1/16 off and added a shoulder for the deck to be recessed. So you dremeled the screw holes a little bigger than filled with fiberglass ? No problems bonding to the existing glass? And if Im reading this correctly, no screws go through the core, just glass to glass? I appreciate all you time, it has been truly helpful..Glen

 

[Fishtales]

I left the screw holes alone on the gelcoat side and just taped them so resin would not leak out. If you see the core pics, I drilled a larger (than screw) hole in the core so the screw would not go through the core as it snugly fit the single piece of core in the hatch. I wet both sides (hatch and core) with resin and then put down a layer or roving on the hatch side and used a lot of resin to soak it well. Then installed the core (wet side down) and weighted it with blocks. I can't see the bond, but it appears to be very good. I then glassed the core bottom side with a light woven layer. After glassing in the core in, I filled the larger screw holes in the core with resin and fiberglass filler. When dry, drilled the screw holes out for the mounting screws. I'd say better than factory and will be fine for the remaining boat life.

 

[Tatt00z]

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Getting ready to screw it down tomorrow. What size screws did you use, all mine are gone, so I have no idea where to start. Did you counter sink the holes? Thanks again. Glen

 

[efx]

#10, 1 1/2” or 2”. Be careful to not screw into any fuel lines for wires.

 

[Fishtales]

#10 sounds correct. There shouldn't be anything in the way, but you never know. If you have some thin rubber, install this between the hatch and floor where there is contact to mitigate squeeking.