I'm disappointed with Grady White with their transom design at least on the pre-2000 boats. Euro transom in particular but all plywood transoms are fair game. Everyone blames the "bang cap" and thinks that if it's caulked and not corroded life is good! The fiberglass cover for lack of a better term in front of the transom in the splash well has numerous screws in it. You may be able to keep the splash well waterproof for 30 years. But the transom top extends out to both sides under the top/bottom half of the boat at the rub rail. The crap they fill with is brittle and doesn't adhere well. It's impossible to prevent the top/bottom half of the boat and the rub rail dry underneath.
After reviewing my transom here is what I found. The 1 1/2" Plywood in my transom was wet and delaminated. The aluminum bracket was secured properly to the stringers. The bracket saved my boat - top Motor bolts went into aluminum bracket. This would prevent the motors from tearing out at the vertical edges (hopefully!).
For the re-build the aluminum bracket is a big concern. Bonding to aluminum is a big problem. Oxidation. Aluminum etch is recommended to prep. West Systems has a special epoxy - G\Flex - that is the right stuff at least to attach the Coosa board.
G/flex® 650 is a toughened, versatile, liquid epoxy for permanent waterproof bonding of fiberglass, ceramics, metals, plastics, and damp and difficult-to-bond woods. It is a bit more flexible than standard epoxies and polyester but much stiffer than adhesive sealants. This gives it the ability to make structural bonds that can absorb the stress of expansion, contraction, shock, and vibration. It is ideal for bonding dissimilar materials.
