228 Auxiliary Fuel Tank Install. Cheat Codes.

[SeanC]

I have the tank in. The fuel and vent hoses are pre-rigged. They are still soft.
I’ve drilled the holes for the Perko filler.
I have been able to pull the pipes through. That was tight. So there is no way the hose clamps for the filler and vent hoses can be installed above the gunnel and then pulled through.
Tightening the clamps from below the gunnel is going to be a bit of a challenge.
Any tips?

I noticed something a bit strange about how the hose from the pickup on the main tank is routed.
The fuel filter is in the starboard corner under the transom seats.
The fuel hose goes to the port side, in under the transom seats then back across to the starboard side, up the side of the boat, then finally to the starboard side port of the filter. Seems like a waste of fuel hose.

 

[Hookup1]

12" square cut on flat part of side panel. Easy repair.

 

[DennisG01]

You can certainly re-route fuel hoses if you find a way that makes more sense to you.

Along the lines of what Hookup mentioned... another option is a large, round deck plate - or even square, plastic hatch.

 

[SeanC]

12" square cut on flat part of side panel. Easy repair.

View attachment 38146

Thanks. I was hoping to avoid cutting a hole but I don't I think there is another option. I can most probably get the hoses on from underneath using one hand but tightening the hose clamps will need two hands and I can't get two in there.

Another thing. The auxiliary tank will have it's own filter. The filters will be connected to the motor by a three way ball valve. There isn't a lot of room in the compartment meaning the new filter will be close to the ball valve making it difficult to get a primer bulb between the filter and ball valve.

Will one primer bulb after the ball valve be OK or should I have a primer bulb on each fuel line before the ball valve?

Thanks

 

[Hookup1]

Run the hoses from the tank area but don't connect first. I cut the hole at the beginning of the project to make disassembly easier. There is a green ground wire on the fuel fills. The new Perko fuel fills have a bushing under them to divert water away from the fill. After you hook everything up up top connect the fuel tank.

Fixing the cutout hole is easy. Epoxy 4 small pieces of wood in the corners of the opening. Fit the old piece in but make sure you trim it flat. Epoxy it in and use an epoxy fairing compound. You can't even see the repair.

Here is my thread on tank replacement:

Thread '268 Islander Fuel Tank Replacement'

Jul 10, 2023

Decided that this is the year to replace my 25 yo fuel tanks. No leaks. I plan to keep the boat. I'll document the process here.

Pulled the hatch. This hatch was rebuilt a few years ago with Coosa board. Looks good and feels solid. Hatch was set with 3M 4000 - kept everything sealed. Some difficulty cutting with blade to get it up. Not sure what it will go down with. Deck ports were caulked in from the underside as well. Kept the tanks dry.



I also put plastic over the fill, sending unit and pickup. This deflects any water away from the busy area of the tank.

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• Hookup1
• Replies: 70
• Forum: Tips, Modifications and Electronics

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