Looks to me you don't own a large enough vehicle to pull a boat with a large enough head compartment.
Any Gradys with a head compartment and 5,000# towing?
- Thread starter dcdude
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@Capt Tom I think you're on to something! That's why I asked for help. The Robalo R180 and Key West 189FS would definitely work, and maybe even fit in a garage. But I came here to understand Grady options.
I have a 2016 GW 209 fisherman w 200 hp yamaha hard top and trailer looking to sell
mark
Mfoster312@aol.com
mark
Mfoster312@aol.com
'84_241_Offshore
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That sounds like a very nice boat that should sell for much more than my $30K target budget.
Lt.Mike
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I wouldn’t want to tow more than 3/4 of a vehicles tow rating. Towing right to the max is asking for trouble unless you go slow and local only.
The tow vehicle should have a trans cooler if it’s automatic.
When towing If the vehicle has a tow haul mode it will prevent the trans from going into overdrive.
You can do this by shutting your OD off or selecting “D” with your shifter. Better to burn gas than burn up a trans.
If it’s a big vehicle and a small boat you can get away with no brakes on the trailer.
The bigger the tow vehicle the less it is likely to get pushed or influenced by what it tows and that is import to remember when you buy a vehicle for your family.
No one wants to drive a tank especially if you only tow a couple times a year but on those days it may make the difference between having a great day or getting into trouble with your family in the vehicle.
AWD or 4wd is a must on slick boat ramps.
If it’s a smaller vehicle towing like a 4 Runner and the boat is pushing the max limit you’d better have working brakes on both axles and keep the speed down.
55 -60 No More. So many accidents with trailers happen because people drive the same with a trailer as without.
You can’t speed with a trailer.
If you get that “death wobble” “do not panic!!!
Do not jam the brakes!!!
Ease off the gas and as you slow down it will come under control. Drive slower and the wobble won’t come back. The weight on the trailer is most likely set to far to the back and needs to come forward. If you were to jam the brakes during a wobble you will most certainly jack knife the rig. A good set of working trailer brakes and trailer loading will help prevent this.
I have towed small and enormous loads on well maintained trailers and pulled construction trailers that shouldn’t have been on the road. I did that for pay and thankfully don’t anymore.
My present trailer under my Overnighter has brakes on both axles and they are a godsend!
Last point is strap it! If the ramp is in your back yard or the boat is staying in the marina fine but if your going on the road strap the back down ! I also in addition to the winch strap on the bow eye run a ratchet strap straight down to an eye on the trailer tongue. If you don’t have an eye for that just wrap it under and around the tongue and back to the bow eye. That all but eliminates any rocking horse action the boat may have on the trailer as you tow.
The tow vehicle should have a trans cooler if it’s automatic.
When towing If the vehicle has a tow haul mode it will prevent the trans from going into overdrive.
You can do this by shutting your OD off or selecting “D” with your shifter. Better to burn gas than burn up a trans.
If it’s a big vehicle and a small boat you can get away with no brakes on the trailer.
The bigger the tow vehicle the less it is likely to get pushed or influenced by what it tows and that is import to remember when you buy a vehicle for your family.
No one wants to drive a tank especially if you only tow a couple times a year but on those days it may make the difference between having a great day or getting into trouble with your family in the vehicle.
AWD or 4wd is a must on slick boat ramps.
If it’s a smaller vehicle towing like a 4 Runner and the boat is pushing the max limit you’d better have working brakes on both axles and keep the speed down.
55 -60 No More. So many accidents with trailers happen because people drive the same with a trailer as without.
You can’t speed with a trailer.
If you get that “death wobble” “do not panic!!!
Do not jam the brakes!!!
Ease off the gas and as you slow down it will come under control. Drive slower and the wobble won’t come back. The weight on the trailer is most likely set to far to the back and needs to come forward. If you were to jam the brakes during a wobble you will most certainly jack knife the rig. A good set of working trailer brakes and trailer loading will help prevent this.
I have towed small and enormous loads on well maintained trailers and pulled construction trailers that shouldn’t have been on the road. I did that for pay and thankfully don’t anymore.
My present trailer under my Overnighter has brakes on both axles and they are a godsend!
Last point is strap it! If the ramp is in your back yard or the boat is staying in the marina fine but if your going on the road strap the back down ! I also in addition to the winch strap on the bow eye run a ratchet strap straight down to an eye on the trailer tongue. If you don’t have an eye for that just wrap it under and around the tongue and back to the bow eye. That all but eliminates any rocking horse action the boat may have on the trailer as you tow.
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Lt.Mike
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If you have room build a carport or rather have one built. This is a Carolina carport with all the bells and whistles (24 wide x 26’ deep) for $4G they built for me. If you want a single wide it’d probably run you under $2G.
it’s worth the investment as most things deteriorate from storage exposed to the elements rather than from use. Also if want to do winter maintenance you can still get to your boat in a dry place to do what you want.
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nuclear
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I was in the same boat as you (#DadJokes), but rather than compromising on the boat, I got a better vehicle. So I ditched the 4Runner and got a Land Cruiser, that allowed me to feel more comfortable pulling a 228. Granted I never have to tow far so I don't have to worry about that.
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