Big Airmar tilt FF thru hull ducers

B

BobP

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I have one going in.

The nut on it is huge, Airmar recommends a "slip nut wrench".

The nut has flats that span 4.25 inches !! The slip nut wrenches I've found open to 3 inch max.

The closest I've found for any tool to fit is a $25, 16 inch, channellocks.

If you installed one of these monster ducers, what too did you use on nut?


Thanks
 
Bob, Home depot or lowes will carry it. Just went throught the same thing and I couldn't get a 16" channel lock to fit in the gaps. Look for a small adjustable wrench lookalike with prongs about 3" long and the overall tool length is about 10", like a small adjustable with a huge jaw(very cheap looking tool). The significant feature is a wing nut to hold jaws stable. its about $12 and an indispensable tool for the job. If you need a photo let me know and i'll get to it over the weekend. - Jack
 
I cheated. I welded up a "crows foot" wrench out of flat stock and a pipe.
 
Yes please post PICTURESIf you have pics FROM UNDERNEATH that would be great ALSO! :lol: :wink: Also pics of the inside install...Getting ready to do this so looking for examples.
 
I just replaced a thru hull ducer on a friends 32 foot century. I had plenty of access and a wrench to fit but the old nut wouldnt budge(it was solid green with corrosion). I just took a sawzall with a new blade and cut through the nut on both sides and off it came. Then took a huge pair of channel locks to the ducer and twisted like heck till it came loose. When putting the new one on I just used the channel locks because I was not looking to tighten it down so tight that all the sealent was squeezed out. Just snugged it down till I was happy with it and called it good. oh and used 4200 not 5200. It was put on pretty thick and oozed out from every crack and crevice so no worry about it leaking. It did have 5200 on it before and getting the block off the outside was a chore. The inside block came off really easy because the hull was not flat on the inside where they mounted it so they just used an extra thick layer of sealent. I cut the new high performance fairing block for the inside at 2 angles using my bandsaw so it fit flat to the floor for a good snug fit. oh and the original hole was not cut perfectly straight so I had to use a dremel to get the hole straight. This simple job took over 5 hours start to finish but I did have to make 3 trips home to cut everything to fit. I have not been out on the boat but he said it is working great.
 
Moxsea, I believe what you are referring to is called a slip nut wrench, used for plumbing fixtures. And that's about the price for it I've seen on the internet.
Take a look at this link and let me know if this is it -

http://www.acehardware.com/product/inde ... =362171802

I'm going to ACE then the depot to look for it this morning.

For others who are doing a job like this - no problem, as long as you popped your cherry first drilling any size hole thru the hull. The 3-3/4 inch hole for this will be a snap. Make sure to use a 3 -3/4 inch hole saw, get one off the internet since the depot doesn't have the size, and find a flat part of the hull not curved part. My keel has a continuous curve so had to go up the V a ways to clear it. This way ducer sits perfectly flat on the outside and seals properly, and inside the spacer sits flush with full contact.

Thank all for the info -
 
Bob, That's the one. Jaw opens wide enough and will get in to small spaces. Let me know how it works for you. I'm heading to my boat today to clean up. Jack
 
Just came back from the Depot and ACE, the jaws only open to 3 inch max on that tool.

I have the SS264W, it's as big a ducer gets.
The flat to flat dimension on the SS264W nut is 4.25 inches.

Both Ace and the Depot have the 16 inch channellocks, can take the big nut. And can always use a bigger channelock on some projects!

But didn't get it, I'm going to dry fit the ducer with a 6 inch C clamp I have, will place at a near horizoantal or diagonal angle and see if I can get some torgue. The articulating foot comes off the clamp so I'm pretty sure it can grip the flat. After all, don't need to bear down on it, just snug it up firm.

I'll get the 16 inch channellocks if the C clamp doesn't do it. At 24 bucks it's a lot of tool. The slip nut wrench mentioned above was 18 bucks at the depot, and it's a kid's toy compared to the channellocks, speaking of value.
 
Presto!

My 6 inch C clamp works, it has about 4.5 inch free opening clearance.

I have modified the articulating foot so it can snap off, for other purposes, but it does work fine. Plenty of leverage.

These are the heavy iron ones at the depot, not the plastic furniture clamps.

C clamps have a lot of use for me with projects, have 6 inch and 8 inch ones.
 
Bob, can you post a pic of exactly where you mounted the thruhull trans.....maybe looking to do the same......too far forward and I may get cavitation. Would be good to see how placement works out under crusing speeds.
 
Finished job yesterday.

Have not used it yet to see if any good, but below the hull it is clear all the way forward and all around it.

It is really a nice near flush design, very little sticks out and it's a gradual transition. Airmar did a excellent job.

I'll measure it off tonight to give you the placement.

It's sitting just rear of the bilge bulkhead on the starboard side. Had to cut an opening in the oil tank floor, then make a new larger flat floor for the second oil tank to go side by side with one on the port side.
Besides the Xducer, I extended the starboard battery platform twice as long, which is the 2nd reason had to move oil tank.

6 inch C clamp worked like a champ on the big nut, used it with foot off. I used the usual 12 inch channellocks to hold body from rotating while torquing nut. BoatLife Life Caulk against hull, GE silicone II to line spacer, and some LifeCaulk on nut threaded and set screw threads.

Another tip: there are two neoprene washers, the one on top under the big nut was squeezing out when torquing nut. All I did was coat it with light silicone (GE Silicone II) both sides and nut surface and she stayed in place. I read over at THT, members would get rid of washer, I can see why. But the silicone allowed the nut to slide evenly on the neoprene otherwise it will bunch and push out under little torque.

Last note, don't forget, the arrow pointing at keel on X ducer head means just that, don't make the arrow parallel to keel.
 
By the way, as I think about it.

Except for locating it, this thing is nothing more than an oversized thru-hull.

Same techniques and tools/materials involved.
 
Got Grady? said:
I just replaced a thru hull ducer on a friends 32 foot century. I had plenty of access and a wrench to fit but the old nut wouldnt budge(it was solid green with corrosion). I just took a sawzall with a new blade and cut through the nut on both sides and off it came. Then took a huge pair of channel locks to the ducer and twisted like heck till it came loose. When putting the new one on I just used the channel locks because I was not looking to tighten it down so tight that all the sealent was squeezed out. Just snugged it down till I was happy with it and called it good. oh and used 4200 not 5200. It was put on pretty thick and oozed out from every crack and crevice so no worry about it leaking. It did have 5200 on it before and getting the block off the outside was a chore. The inside block came off really easy because the hull was not flat on the inside where they mounted it so they just used an extra thick layer of sealent. I cut the new high performance fairing block for the inside at 2 angles using my bandsaw so it fit flat to the floor for a good snug fit. oh and the original hole was not cut perfectly straight so I had to use a dremel to get the hole straight. This simple job took over 5 hours start to finish but I did have to make 3 trips home to cut everything to fit. I have not been out on the boat but he said it is working great.
Click to expand...

I went threw the same thing. But its not as bad as it looks. I trimmed and cut the faring block and ended up not using it..
 
half off sale

I was having a tuff time with wrench size and clearence. I went to harbor freight tools and bought an inexpensive jumbo open end wrench to fit the span and then cut it in half so it could swing in the tight corner.....half off sale worked great.........Tom
 
Airmar should provide a nylon mold formed wrench, what's the bid deal? A few bucks. Can make it like a socket wrench with a partially closed top and a slot for a bar to fit across in.

Richie. ironically, I took the location measurements last night and forgot to write them down!

Will do again tonight.

Made a sticky note to myself, measure sensor AGAIN!
 
The dimensions of the ducer as measured from under the hull, at centerlines are:

20 inch forward of the transom, 15 inch off the keel.
 
I think 20 deep would put it under my aux tank without access... would need to limit it to just under the battery boxes.

thanks Bob.
 
Bob,
Thanks for the dimensions. Not sure how this might measure up with my Seafarer but it sounds close to working. My biggest concern would be with the raw water pickups causing turbulence if its too close. You didn't happen to take some photos of your setup did you? :)
 
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