bow lifting eye moving up & down

SirGrady226

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I have this exact problem! it's rusted out and I need replace it, as it's not structurally sound or safe anymore for the D-ring towing loop OR the cleat uptop. Where did you find the parts? Grady was no help...
Here is the link on my issue and the blueprint Grady White emailed me.
 

johntpt25

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got it out today.... hacksaw to the threaded rod. this must be a recall! (34 hrs later ) if it's happened to others. Now to order new parts and try to fit it back up as original... or I'll just say screw it ... and fasten a piece of coosa under the cleat, and bolt it back down. I don't trailer sinai don't need the bow ring for towing (stays in the water). Also, I sealed the bow ring from the outside, so it doesn't get worse....
 

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Sparkdog118

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I just replaced mine in my 1988 24 offshore also. Had a weld shop fabricate it out of stainless steel. Cost me 200 bucks and will last forever.
 

Cbrooke

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The problem was in the metal bracket which is bolted to the bow eye (for trailering) and also is used for the threaded bolt that runs from the lifting cleat down to the same bracket. It was slightly bent and was flexing enough to leave a gap topside at the base of the lifting eye when pressure was applied. I took it to a weld shop and had the bent part straightened and added extra ss plates to stop the flexing. Everything is back in place and no more up and down motion on the lifting eye. This boat went through Cat 4 Irma and some twisting at the bow did occur so that might have started the problem.
any chance you have the measurements?
 

Cbrooke

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I just replaced mine in my 1988 24 offshore also. Had a weld shop fabricate it out of stainless steel. Cost me 200 bucks and will last forever.
do you happen to have the measurements of the new bracket
 

Tinkertoy250

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Yup, you can definitely just use the bow eye (trailering eye) for lifting. That's essentially what is being done by using the cleat on the topdeck. Attaching a lifting strap directly to the bow eye is even stronger, though, as the straps are pulling against the bow keel. As an extra safety margin, do as suggested above and add a backer on the inside of the bow keel.

For cleating the boat while in the water, though, it might be a good idea to glass a piece of 3/4" marine ply to the underside of the deck - I don't recall how thick the deck is, off hand.

This was the original in my Offshore (absolutely ridiculous to use regular steel!):
A1C8C490-BCBA-46E2-AB83-20686FEC3FC6.jpg



This is the new one that I had made locally out of SS:
B2AF01CF-8C36-4B69-B79C-422767C038AA.jpg
I have this exact same issue. I know it’s an old thread but do you or the shop who made it still have dimensions? Have the same bracket on my 89 wellcraft. Rusted away to nothing
 

DennisG01

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I have this exact same issue. I know it’s an old thread but do you or the shop who made it still have dimensions? Have the same bracket on my 89 wellcraft. Rusted away to nothing
I do not. But there's probaly zero chance they are the "same" bracket. It's not an off the shelf piece. Mock it up with some cardboard pieces or strips of luan. It won't be too hard to do.
 
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Tinkertoy250

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I do not. But theirs is probaly zero chance they are the "same" bracket. It's not an off the shelf piece. Mock it up with some cardboard pieces or strips of luan. It won't be too hard to do.
Thanks for the reply. There’s actually another post on this forum where a guy got the original drawing with measurements from Grady. I did some digging about wellcraft and seems they are the same. However after discussing with a few people I realize I don’t even need it. In my case it’s only for the bow lifting cleat. Not the bow tow eye. On my boat that’s a separate fixture further down. So my plan is to cut out the old bracket and not even worry about it. For my cleat I’m just going to reuse the existing one with a short piece of threaded rod secured to the pulpit with a piece of stainless or coosa backing and a big nut. I don’t lift from that cleat. It’s just where I secure my bow lines and anchor rode tie off. A big 5/8 rod with backing is plenty strong for that