Tech dog, Don't get too concerned if you wind up spinning the fitting in the plastic. There are innumerable repair/replacement parts available. The field sprayer guys are constantly changing/adding input/output fittings in poly tanks. Not rocket science, just science in a different business. To make you feel braver before you wrench on your tank again, call an outfit that builds commercial sprayer tanks or an outfit that sprays fields or lawns and talk to them about your tank needs as far as diameter and the fact that it's gas. Don't worry about replacing the anti-siphon valve. Lawyers put those in your boat. Just a barb fitting is all you need. I think a 1/4 turn shut-off valve between the barb and the tank is a good idea.
Broken anti-siphon valve on a Tournament 192, how do I get the pickup tube out?
- Thread starter tech_dog
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- Nov 19, 2021
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From the reading I've done it looks like the fix, if I destroy the current threaded insert, is plastic heat-welding a new fitting into the poly. Hopefully it won't come to that, as I'd have to hire a shop that knows what they're doing. This is a bad time of year to need boat mechanics, as they're all very busy.
I figure I may as well put in a new anti-siphon if/when I get the broken nipple out, but I"ll put in brass and not friggin aluminum. In my experience nothing gets corrosion-welded like aluminum does.
No need to go to those extremes of welding. Totally unnecessary. Outfits like this can fix you up with what you need. This just the first one I saw on a quick search. You will just have to get a repair fitting that does not require a hand-hole access. There are some bolt-on handhole covers to make things easier. There are also some ingenious repair fittings that let you bolt up a two piece inner plate that drops thru the existing hole and using some supplied wire nuts you can bolt it right up. I will see if I can find a picture of the one I used.
Tank Flanges for IBCs & Totes | JME Ellsworth
Shop JME's selection of tank flanges for IBCs & totes.
www.jmesales.com
A good way to do your repair should you not be able to remove the aluminum elbow is to install an inspection plate in your tank right where the bad fitting is. Before installing the plate for final is to install the proper size bulkhead fitting in the inspection plate before bolting it down for final. Here is a video of an installation of an inspection plate.
Did you check, yet, if that fittign is a bulkhead fitting? Or have you just not been to the boat, yet?
I meant to mention this earlier... you could always INSTALL a bulkhead fitting for this very easily since you already have an access plate hole... the sender.
My opinion differs on the AS valve... if a section of the fuel line is lower than the tank, a leak in that section may cause your entire tank to empy out into your bilge. And then get pumped overboard... which also may be a tens of thousands of dollars of a fine in addition to the safety risk. Even if no section of hose is currently below the tank, if a section should rupture/split, it may fall below. Granted, that's a rarity - but this is not the area to take a chance in.
I meant to mention this earlier... you could always INSTALL a bulkhead fitting for this very easily since you already have an access plate hole... the sender.
My opinion differs on the AS valve... if a section of the fuel line is lower than the tank, a leak in that section may cause your entire tank to empy out into your bilge. And then get pumped overboard... which also may be a tens of thousands of dollars of a fine in addition to the safety risk. Even if no section of hose is currently below the tank, if a section should rupture/split, it may fall below. Granted, that's a rarity - but this is not the area to take a chance in.
- Joined
- Nov 19, 2021
- Messages
- 74
- Reaction score
- 11
- Points
- 8
- Model
- Tournament 192
I just got back from hitting everything with another round of PB blaster. the fitting is either in the poly or a bulkhead, but I didn't confirm. I think I'll get SOME access from taking off the nearby sender, a decent sized hole, but I don't want to mess with it until I have to. I know I can get the sender out as I replaced it just last year. If it's a bulkhead fitting already, that's probably how Grady White got it on in the first place.
I'm going to start with a week of PB blaster and then a pipe extractor on what's left of the ASV, fingers crossed.. 4th of July weekend is coming and the crowds are already up, so I'd be letting the boat sit for a bit anyway.
I agree with you. All that stuff is there for a reason, and I plan on installing a new BRASS ASV, not aluminum....
Thanks.
On a side note, I looked up brass anti siphon valves and in the description for a Moeller , it said that for motors under 200 hp, aluminum is the norm but for 200hp and up, the ASV has to be brass. I didn't know that.