Deck Drain/Hose Replacement - 225 Tournament

CBH IV

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Has anyone replaced the deck drains and hoses on a 225 Tournament? Ours is a 2005 and everything looks original (i.e. rusted and needs to be replaced). This is more of the freedom style layout with the fold down transom seat, not the the moulded in stern seats.

I have seen posts on other models where people were talking about needing to cut access holes etc. Curious if anyone has done this on the 225 and can provide any advice or input on the process. I am thinking the only thing I will really need to remove is the battery switch panel on the stbd side. I am hoping no holes will need to be cut.

We bought the boat last winter and this is the one weak spot that bothered me all season while using the boat. They are not currently leaking, but it still had me checking the bilge every hour or so while we were out fishing. My plan would be to replace the deck drains with the newer stainless ones that have male pipe threads that screw into the housing from above the deck as well as using 1-1/2" marine grade reinforced fuel hose. I think the bronze through hulls are all in good shape and shouldn't need to be touched.
 

CBH IV

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The boat is 1-1/2hrs away and I don't have any specific pictures of the hoses, fittings etc. I was hoping someone who had done the job on this specific model could offer advice.

I think access to the thru hull scupper will be fairly easy, but worried about getting back to the deck fitting. If I am replacing the deck drains can I pre-measure the hose and connect it to the deck drain, feed through hole in the deck, seal and tighten the deck drain then connect to the thru hull fitting?
 

glacierbaze

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No, using the stock, one piece drain, you would have to put the backing nut on underneath, before attaching the hose. Even if the bottom half of the new, two piece style would fit through the hole, which I seriously doubt, the hose clamps would not, with either style.
I think that wire reinforced hose is part of the problem here, because the wire rusts, and swells, and contributes to the breakdown of the hose, I believe. I used 1 1/2 white sanitation hose, which is a loose fit on the hardware, which makes those connections a little easier. I used a heat gun, and double clamped everything. That is on a 228SF. I did the same on a '93 Tournament 22 a couple of years ago.
 

Rlloyd

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Just had this done on my 2003 Gulfstream. All equipment was original. Bought replacement plastic drains with right angle nipples that fit the 2 1/2” holes. Since these have threaded nuts from below, we had to attach the new hoses from below after the deck drains were replaced. New 1 1/2” radiator-type hoses were attached with two clamps at each attachment. The old hoses were cracked and starting to leak. The bronze thru-hulls were solid, so did not replace those.
My logic is that the original gear lasted 19 years, so that’s plenty of life for my boat.
 

Zumytunes

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Just had this done on my 2003 Gulfstream. All equipment was original. Bought replacement plastic drains with right angle nipples that fit the 2 1/2” holes. Since these have threaded nuts from below, we had to attach the new hoses from below after the deck drains were replaced. New 1 1/2” radiator-type hoses were attached with two clamps at each attachment. The old hoses were cracked and starting to leak. The bronze thru-hulls were solid, so did not replace those.
My logic is that the original gear lasted 19 years, so that’s plenty of life for my boat.
Hi Rlloyd, I also have a 2002 232 Gulfstream and will be digging into his job this weekend. Where did you get the replacement plastic drains & 90 degree fittings?

Also were you able to access the underside of the drain fairly easily through that small access door? Any information is appreciated!
 

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Fishtales

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There are white plastic two piece ones (have horizontal bar across to stop big items from entering) and the newer ones which have a plastic body and a SS screw in cover. The latter are more expensive but appear to be much nicer. Both have plastic nuts that screw over the back side and snug them to the deck. A standard rubber hose (metal spiral inside) is used between the deck drain and the thru-hull. I'd get the best hose you can get (match it up).
Here are the more expensive ones. Probably can get cheaper if you look around.
 

Rlloyd

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Zumytunes, I replaced with the identical white plastic parts available from TH Marine. Mine were original and 19 years old. They were fine, but the hoses were cracked. However, I agree with Fishtale and others that replacing the deck drains with the sturdier part in the above post is probably a good idea.. I'll schedule that change for next winter. Access was facilitated by removing the port/starboard hatches (completely) that give access to the two corners. We also took out the batteries just to get more room. There's about 3" of clearance between the deck and the fuel tank below, so the right angle barbed nipples worked just fine. Good luck!
 

Ryhlick

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I just replaced my deck drains on my 228 as the original drain pipes where split. What a pain in the A$$ but totally doable and necessary. I also replace the hose clamps on all other through hole fittings as several were rusted off. I went ahead and replaced them with the current stainless ones Grady is using, looks great but my hands not so much.
 

SmokyMtnGrady

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I did my 228 with new hoses and I even bought the current stainless deck drain fittings too. It's actually a fairly straightforward project especially if you put in new deck drains . This way you don't have to worry if you crack one trying to get the oem hoses off. The set up of a 225 and 228 stern are identical.

I found the simple trick is to cut the scupper hose in the middle to release the tension built through shrinkage and such. Then I took a razor knife with new blade and cut a slit over the scupper through hull fitting barb ( after removing hose clamps) and had a pair of diagonal cutters to cut the reinforcement wire. I used the OEM hoses ,black hose with green stripe by MPI.
 

Fishtales

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On the to do list. I think I have to cut an access hold though and put an inspection port in.
 

glacierbaze

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Fishtales, the newer two piece scuppers, that you link above, do not appear to have a nut on the bottom, just a flange that the screw in top piece pulls tight to the bottom of the deck.