- Joined
- Oct 12, 2017
- Messages
- 4,234
- Reaction score
- 1,467
- Points
- 113
- Location
- Manasquan Inlet NJ
- Website
- www.youtube.com
- Model
- Express 265
This is a compilation of several posts and conversations...
I kicked it around and decided to try it on the cheap . $268 for 4 strips. You could do it with 3 if you seam it differently. I used two on the main hatch seamed down the middle and one on each side. (10 "planks" from each roll)Lots of leftover because of where I put seams.
Two tubes of black GE silicone from HD.
Again, I admit it is not anywhere near what a pro Seadek job would do. but <$300!!! Its better than a worn out non-skid deck and easier than painting. I was going to need a non-skid paint job on the fishng deck. That was going to require sanding and prep anyways. So if putting this down in a couple hours delays that for a season I'm ahead of the game.
Price went down!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08SM7RXTV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Started after lunch mostly done by dinner. No it’s not a professional job. I did the cuts freehand with a razor knife. It would be better to make piehole cuts on a table with a template. I just followed around the rim with the razor knife.
Razor knife works best if you don't stop. Really sharp blade. Try not to stretch the foam with the blade.
Look at your pieces. one factory edge is different than the other.
I decided to just cover the screw holes of the hatch and put the screws in by lifting the edge. You CAN lift the edge decking..at least right after you put it down. Worse case you poke a screwdriver thru it to remove the screws. I would leave less exposed if I did it again. I used a wide finger to cover the gelcoat with black silicone. Warning: Silicone will try to get everywhere! I have a few spots where I got wet black silicone on my elbow/knee/shoe and spread it where it doesn't belong
I did a very thin silicone at the forward edge and covered with one stripe on the vertical wall. It makes a nice clean straight line.
If I like it then someday maybe pay for professional CNC cuts. Makes me feel like I'm on a 38 sporty...
Some prep:
I scrubbed with Softscrub and a greenie to get everything out of the non-skid. Then I used acetone and a greenie and wiped clean.
I had some deep spider cracks where the deck meets the vertical of the livewell and tackle station. I had tried to grind them clean and use EpoxyRX/MarineRX. I ground to deep. The glass is very thin with no core in the radius bend. I ended up glassing and fairing that area flat instead of the "channel" that was formed in the deck. In the first picture you can see red fairing compound filling that area.
I figured that having that flat would help the decking stick and also make water run aft down the decking grooves....if you follow me?
Obviously the CNC cuts with the curves and borders are way better than my straight lines. My deck was well worn and getting a little slick from 20 years of sliding coolers. I had nothing to lose to try it. I'm not sure how well it would stick on brand new diamond non-skid.
It feels awesome. We'll see how it stands up to my crew and tuna fishing. I might put some of the extra on the foc'sul for better footing at the anchor.
I have to say, based on just standing on it and kneeling on it, IT FEELS GREAT!. I hope it holds up at least thru a complete season.
Some asked about doing the helm and cabin...
Now see, I'm thinking contrary to others. I'm putting it on the fishing deck and NOT the helm and cabin.
I want it to cushion the 12 oz jigs and 2 lb lead weights when we're Tilefishing.
When we're fishing hard we end up tracking bait smush on our shoes up to the helm and down into the cabin. I don't want foam decking where I can't hose it.
My opinion is still positive. I had an old worn deck and I don't really care about perfection once fishing starts.
definitely harder to clean off clam bait. Can't use Softscrub because it might bleach it? Brush doesn't move clam. High pressure hose gets it after a few passes. (not pressure washer but just high pressure hose nozzle)
BUT..I've been on brand new boats with deep sharp non-skid that were just as hard to clean clam...
I think dried blood stays there for a while until it fades.
If you are one of those guys that obsesses over every smudge, you won't like it.
Can't slide coolers around. Can't slide anything because nothing slides! Feels great.
Wet is darker than dry. thats not stains.
I kicked it around and decided to try it on the cheap . $268 for 4 strips. You could do it with 3 if you seam it differently. I used two on the main hatch seamed down the middle and one on each side. (10 "planks" from each roll)Lots of leftover because of where I put seams.
Two tubes of black GE silicone from HD.
Again, I admit it is not anywhere near what a pro Seadek job would do. but <$300!!! Its better than a worn out non-skid deck and easier than painting. I was going to need a non-skid paint job on the fishng deck. That was going to require sanding and prep anyways. So if putting this down in a couple hours delays that for a season I'm ahead of the game.
Price went down!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08SM7RXTV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Started after lunch mostly done by dinner. No it’s not a professional job. I did the cuts freehand with a razor knife. It would be better to make piehole cuts on a table with a template. I just followed around the rim with the razor knife.
Razor knife works best if you don't stop. Really sharp blade. Try not to stretch the foam with the blade.
Look at your pieces. one factory edge is different than the other.
I decided to just cover the screw holes of the hatch and put the screws in by lifting the edge. You CAN lift the edge decking..at least right after you put it down. Worse case you poke a screwdriver thru it to remove the screws. I would leave less exposed if I did it again. I used a wide finger to cover the gelcoat with black silicone. Warning: Silicone will try to get everywhere! I have a few spots where I got wet black silicone on my elbow/knee/shoe and spread it where it doesn't belong
I did a very thin silicone at the forward edge and covered with one stripe on the vertical wall. It makes a nice clean straight line.
If I like it then someday maybe pay for professional CNC cuts. Makes me feel like I'm on a 38 sporty...
Some prep:
I scrubbed with Softscrub and a greenie to get everything out of the non-skid. Then I used acetone and a greenie and wiped clean.
I had some deep spider cracks where the deck meets the vertical of the livewell and tackle station. I had tried to grind them clean and use EpoxyRX/MarineRX. I ground to deep. The glass is very thin with no core in the radius bend. I ended up glassing and fairing that area flat instead of the "channel" that was formed in the deck. In the first picture you can see red fairing compound filling that area.
I figured that having that flat would help the decking stick and also make water run aft down the decking grooves....if you follow me?
Obviously the CNC cuts with the curves and borders are way better than my straight lines. My deck was well worn and getting a little slick from 20 years of sliding coolers. I had nothing to lose to try it. I'm not sure how well it would stick on brand new diamond non-skid.
It feels awesome. We'll see how it stands up to my crew and tuna fishing. I might put some of the extra on the foc'sul for better footing at the anchor.
I have to say, based on just standing on it and kneeling on it, IT FEELS GREAT!. I hope it holds up at least thru a complete season.
Some asked about doing the helm and cabin...
Now see, I'm thinking contrary to others. I'm putting it on the fishing deck and NOT the helm and cabin.
I want it to cushion the 12 oz jigs and 2 lb lead weights when we're Tilefishing.
When we're fishing hard we end up tracking bait smush on our shoes up to the helm and down into the cabin. I don't want foam decking where I can't hose it.
My opinion is still positive. I had an old worn deck and I don't really care about perfection once fishing starts.
definitely harder to clean off clam bait. Can't use Softscrub because it might bleach it? Brush doesn't move clam. High pressure hose gets it after a few passes. (not pressure washer but just high pressure hose nozzle)
BUT..I've been on brand new boats with deep sharp non-skid that were just as hard to clean clam...
I think dried blood stays there for a while until it fades.
If you are one of those guys that obsesses over every smudge, you won't like it.
Can't slide coolers around. Can't slide anything because nothing slides! Feels great.
Wet is darker than dry. thats not stains.
Last edited:
