Evinrude E-Tec any opions ?

Finest Kind

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10 Reasons why I LOVE my Etecs:

1 -Logged over 300 hours so far and NO problems.
After 2 and 1/2 years of use, just did the 3 year or 300 hour maintenence on them, which includes changing the lower unit oil, internal filters and plugs. That was the first time the engine cowlings HAD to come off since I bought them. (Aside from my spraying down the motors with CRC before winter storage..something I WANTED TO DO, but not something that was directed by Evinrude as part of necessary maintenance)

2 -Self Winterizing.
Just follow the simple steps using the throttle contols and the motors self-fog for winter storage.

3 - Dependable.
They start at the first turn of the key, EVERYTIME.
I have NO qualms about going offshore alone if no crew is available and no worries about whether my motors will get me back home from 50 miles+ offshore.

4 - Good fuel economy. Better than my old 175 Fichts, and WAY better than my old 200 HP Johnsons.

5 - NO smoke and minimal oil usage. Using HD100 and burning 100 gals gas for every gal oil.

6 - Quiet and smoooooth.
Shhhhhhh..let me listen...Are they running?

7 - FAST.
My buddy Cap't Niff's 87 Grady Trophy Pro "Audrey Sue" has a pair of 2006 200 HP Yamaha HPDI's on it. Last season we were side by side and did a "drag race" from a standing start...my boat was up on plane and was screaming along at 5000+ RPM before he even came out of the hole!

8 - Lightweight.
My scuppers are a good 2 inches above the waterline when she sits at rest at the dock with full fuel tanks.

9 - They idle at only 500 rpm.
Perfect slow speed for Striper trolling!

10 - They look really cool.
White engines RULE on a Grady! 8)
 

richie rich

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Len, did you see the new E-tec designed for military boats? Same Etec technology, ie, injectors, control module, etc....but its able to run on gas, diesel, or even jet fuel and your choice of prop or jet drive lower end!
 

KingJ

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Sold!

My two cents aren’t worth as much as many other members’ 2 cents here, but my trusted mechanic loves them and has a 60 hp on a classic 15ft super-sport Whaler. I’ve been on speed-runs with him and it just hauls arse. It sounds awesome too, screaming along – if that matters!
He’s recently become Etec certified.

The local Harbor Patrol in Avalon is converting from Volvo Penta I/O to Etecs boat by boat, and no issues re towing etc, so far – from what I’m told by some of the patrolmen, the builder doing the transom/hull boat-work for the conversions, and my mechanic. (There was an issue with a certain radio frequency shutting down the motor at just the wrong time! But, this has been remedied.) All the work-boats for the camps and clubs, and fleet boats on Catalina are converting to Etecs one by one with some hitting 900+ hours so far at last conversation earlier this year. And, apparently the local Coast Guard RIBs with the fore and aft SAW mounts are said to be converting from Hondas to Etecs.

My next motor(s) will be Etec for sure – especially with such an Etec enthused mechanic. I'm looking forward to their smaller hp models that are rumored to be coming soon.
 

KingJ

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Richie, I have heard about the Military Spec Etecs. They are designed to be able to run on whatever the transport ship happens to be fueled by (obviously).... They are made with a once-off-use in mind, and I think I read that they can be just about submerged for a time?
 

richie rich

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correct...fully submersible! It's made in conjunction with a company that does military"everything"....so its a highly specialized block as you would think to run those fuels, but pretty much standard etec fuel system parts and electronics technology....the Etec MFE 55.....can't wait till they make a 200hp version!
 

BobP

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Stealing my lines??
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I'm surprised on those prices, have to shop around.

If I wanted another 200 HP motor of any stroke, still no better choice for me 4 yrs after I bought mine.

If I wanted a 150, 175, 225 or 250, different choice I would make.

The big block 225 ETEC was way more expensive than the 200 HPDI which is a small block motor, but that was then in Fall 2005.

If the dealer has the motors in his inventory they will be cheaper than if he orders them. That's why shopping helps. Some dealers may only want to sell what they have in inventory, period.

I shopped around and saved plenty, some quoted list price, I didn't pay anywhere near list. Only Ed's was a bit cheaper who had the motors stacked to the rafters. I don't think the HPDIs are stocked today even at Ed's but he can get them last I checked, so any dealer can get them.

Wouldn't surpise me more 200 HPDIs sold today than F200s on repowers.

Like anything else, I think it pays to shop around, then negotiate last with your dealer of choice, if you have one. I have a half dozen dealers of any motor brand on Long Island, I didn't buy at closest dealer to me. They don't care where you live, Grady dealers on their boats have more of an issue with that.

But being able to get them serviced or warranty work may be of concern. Where I moor boat, I'm screwed (Yamaha) dealer service wise. Good thing I am a DIYer.

More than 10 yrs after direct injection was introduced on outboard motors, the 4 stokes today still don't have direct injection.

When are 4 strokes going to be latest technolgy ?
Just take the injectors, pumps, and regulators from the DI 2 stroke parts bin, what's the big deal?

You guys with 4 strokes should be driving 1000 - 2000 psig injector pressure, what the heck is going on with the 45 psig fuel injection system right out of a 1978 car motor (Bosch K Jetronic) injection system parts bin ?
 

SBLGFD

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I did additional comparison shopping - the prices posted are the lowest I could find for the specific brand within a reasonable distance (300 miles). Got a total of three Etec , Two Yamaha and two Merc prices . Two of the BRP prices came from fairly large dealers - they say rated #5 and #6 in the US in quantity of motors sold - can’t prove that by me but that what they say. Again prices are for 2010 motors with new binnacles, cables, oil tanks stainless steel props and gauges.
 

richie rich

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Bob, have you bought from Ed's? Do you get the whole shebang, ie, cables, controls and warranty when you buy from him? His prices for twin 150's were $10k less than any local dealer I got a quote from...20 vs 30k, but installed....10k is a lot for a weekends worth of labor....just a bit worried that once I buy from him, all bets are off should something happen within the warranty period......but it is enticing
 

Finest Kind

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SBLGFD said:
I did additional comparison shopping - the prices posted are the lowest I could find for the specific brand within a reasonable distance (300 miles). Got a total of three Etec , Two Yamaha and two Merc prices . Two of the BRP prices came from fairly large dealers - they say rated #5 and #6 in the US in quantity of motors sold - can’t prove that by me but that what they say. Again prices are for 2010 motors with new binnacles, cables, oil tanks stainless steel props and gauges.

If you want the best deal on new Etec's, contact Barnacle Bills in South Jersey, Cape May area at 856 785 9455.

That's where I bought mine after shopping 4 others Etec dealers in NJ.
He is the LARGEST VOLUME seller of Etecs on the East Coast and can sell you the motors well below what other dealers can sell them for, because he GETS them for less due to his BRP volume discount.

Ask for Joe Pecoria (owner), and tell him Len (Finest Kind) sent ya.
 

BobP

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No I didn't, would have to rent a truck to get down and haul motors back ( I don't trailer boat) several hundred miles each way, rental would eat up the savings and then some.

Besides, I needed the full shebang for the repower, not just motors, all the cables, props, instruments, remote fills, oil tanks, binnacle, key sw, etc. and they didn't seem helpful over phone on those parts needed nor what they would cost. Only had "motor" price on website. By the way, even oil tank is extra cost. I would hav edriven first doen there to make teh deal and came back, as usual, face to face is best to disuss the details. Even theh dealer I bought from put me off until I walked into store, and then dealt with owner, not flunkie on phone.

In those years, could do a complete carry out, no more, dealer has to hang motors so no more of that cash and carry stuff, sure they sell way less motors now because of Yamaha policy change.

Glad I didn't go to him since dealer work was needed, not sure if local dealer would have been so accommodating otherwise.

I understand your situation.

My understanding, then, is they have deals with local dealers, to be named after sale, for which will accomodate you. I never got that far to find out. It's the same dealer if I wanted motors shipped home instead of picked up by me, they would ship to. They would NOT ship to my address, only Yamaha dealer address.

You need to discuss the "what if" with ED's. If they have deal with a local dealer by you, I expect you will be OK. Check it out, worth it for a lot less than $10K to me.

I bet you are being quoted list price for motors that why, but you still have to add labor costs by Ed's whever it is. I paid zero labor. The $10 K seem too highm verify what is labor vs. materials in each bid. I recall each motor was $1500 labor for rigging by me, plus materials.

I rented a truck with slide out ramp, drove to local dealer, he fork loaded motors into truck, I jacked motor box at home, placed a dolly under and rolled each down ramp into garage.

Used a 120 buck Pep Boys motor hoist and 30 buck spreaker bar also from Pep Boys to do job. It was a job I enjoyed, working with all those new Yamaha goodies! Would have done it anyway, even if no savings.

Bought in October, dealer activated 5 yr warranty May of next year when I launched.
 

BobP

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By the way, I shoped best time of year in NY, after labor day, I'm sure if I waited until spring, no such deal. I had plenty of time to do job (fall and spring), and the motors I had were working fine for fall run finish.

Would not have enjoyed the repower if rushed.
 

richie rich

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Bob, if I may ask, what did you pay for all the controls, wiring, gauges etc? I'm figuring 2-3k? Did you do your own start up or by the dealer to keep your warranty...or does it even matter....I was told by a dealer that in order to keep the warranty, they would have to do the start up or the manufacturer wouldn't honor it?
 

BobP

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Things are different now than when I did it.

No such requirement then, strictly optional and may be a good idea in case something goes wrong later. I didn't price that up but hired hauling the boat to dealer and back, plus travel-lift would have been 500 bucks, besides what dealer would have charged for checkout and sea trial.

I have the warranty cards. dealer never saw motors again after I drove them out in uhaul truck.

If anything goes wrong and it's install related, I would be out of luck. I guess I did everything right.

The only thing I recall one had to be careful with on the HPDIs is not hitting the starter until the motor oil tank filled, factory empty, the alarm sounded for about a minute before it was ready to go, otherwise may have run oil dry and been wrecked on startup. I was very anxious to hit the starter, if not for patience!

The cost for everything else but motors incl. SWS props, fuel flow gauge, no speedo, two multifunction tachs, oil tanks, binnacle, key sw unit, mech cables, all electrical harneses, two remote oil tank deck fills and tank adaters, and a new teleflex steering ram and tie bar, stub hoses, was about half the cost of one motor as I recall.

Yamaha packages (most) the rigging for twins into kits, makes it cheaper than individual component purchases. Schematics provided in kits. All connections are plug ins and all fit up perfectly. Yamaha did a very good job in documentation too, although not written for DIYer.

Have your dealer break it down, if he cares to, but it may not matter if you turn-key the job.
Command Link is new style which I think is more costly. My motors are command link capable but I didn't want any common bus system for twins - for reliability needs.

I don't think you can do your own rigging or startup anymore, perhaps you can do some of it. If you do, it still has to be done again at dealer. I was able to do 100% of it.
Made my own panel for the gauges. Did the bridge mods to fit the binnacle and key panel.

I think the dealer may demand new fuel lines too, which may be a few hundred more.

I sold the old motors off the transom in driveway, dealer didn't want to know about them.
Did my own grady drive refinishing once the old motors cam eoff.

When everything was said and done incl. tax it was just under $30K, as I recall. Got about $3k for old motor pair. 5 yr warranty included.
 

RUMBLEFISH

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Bob nice that you did them yourself and saved the money. I had all the same things right down to the gauges except the ram and tie bar. They also put in 2 new batteries.

He even dropped me in the water.
Out the door price $34,300.
 

richie rich

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Well, it doesn't look good for saving a lot of money.....paying $100+ per hour to hang engines, run cables, drill holes and mount gauges is tough to swallow when you can do that yourself.......paying a tech to do a final ring out, check, start and tune the engines and test drive is money well spent.....what I thought could be BIG savings looks to be marginal these days at best.

The costs I was given was right out of the dealers price book....all three had the same turnkey price almost down to the penny! So much for free market economy....sounds more like price fixing....and you'd figure in such a bad economy, they'd be a bit more hungry.......it was just like buying a watch at the mall...no matter which store you walk into, the price for the same model watch is the same in each store. I guess you have to offer a bid and begin to walk away and see if they bite.
 

BobP

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Rumble - the teleflex gear was expensive - nearly a grand !

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That's surprising considering the dismal near bankrupt state of the entire marine industry.

When you went in to each and every dealer, did you say?

1. "I'm shopping for motors, looking at 2 and 4 strokes, mercs, etecs, Suzies, and Yamahas, leftovers too" . "No problem with my existing motors but thought of upgrading".

Or ?

2. "Price me up a pair of HPDIs (or etecs, etc) "

??
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Go to the Fall boat shows and try there, then try again around Thanksgiving, when the first freeze hits the ground, not on a warm day.
And if not by then, the winter shows. At the NY (winter) Show, the local dealers work floor duty, they are looking for the business. At least that's how it is at the Yamaha display.

Use line 1, never ever Line 2 even if you have a blown-up motor.

Then the guys are ready to close up for the winter vacation and may like the extra cash. You can agree to a deal and have the work done in the spring if they or you are not so inclined to do it at that time.

My dealer offered to hold the motors in his warehouse for the winter (not that I asked), so you can do something there.

I think only etec dates motors so they will have leftovers. The others followed Yamaha and stopped marking the motors by years - not that helped us consumers at all. Not sure about Suzie.
So if you are interested in etecs be sure to ask for a leftover deal.

Keep shopping.

What I saved payed for an entire season of fuel !
Plus I did the job exactly the way I wanted.
 

richie rich

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The later. Price me up a pair of 150s. They didn't seem a bit anxious at all. Both shows in Boston and Hartford. So I walked. Didn't mention left overs at all. Looks like I need a better and tougher strategy. Or hire Juda Ben Hur to row my boat in the Sound