First day on the water w 208, cruise speed off ?

I guess that is another possibility to consider. It does have a wet transom but no stress cracks on the transom. When I put in the new transducer and resealed the trim tabs, I had some dirty water come out of the screw holes. A reputable fiberglass shop told me to keep an eye on it and to watch for flex more than a 1/4" and/or cracks. Haven't had any of those major indicators.

Would be nice to figure it out. Maybe I should have the prop checked out, hell it could be original to the motor as far as I know.
 
Just got off the phone with Grady and according to their records back in the mid 90's, the 208s with Yams ran with a 13.75" x 17" prop. Mine is 15" x 17"
 
Your initial post said that you are hitting 6000 RPM WOT. Based on that, you are not over propped. However, your slip at WOT is 38% which doesn't seem right. With my 19" Vipers I was only getting 10% slip at WOT. Is there a way to weigh your boat? Could the prop have been modified?
 
onoahimahi said:
Your initial post said that you are hitting 6000 RPM WOT. Based on that, you are not over propped. However, your slip at WOT is 38% which doesn't seem right. With my 19" Vipers I was only getting 10% slip at WOT. Is there a way to weigh your boat? Could the prop have been modified?[

Planning on testing tomorrow and will probably take the prop to the shop for an evaluation.
 
To eliminate the hub slippage, just remove the prop and have the hub checked. At this point, you don't know the condition of the hub and it is an easy place to start. It may seem tight while on the engine, but when under extreme load it can still slip.
 
Socalinsd1 said:
Also regarding the weight issue, wow your not kidding. We went out with a full tank of gas and my bait tank only 1/2 full which is about 150lbs and is centered at the back of the cockpit. Me and my buddy were making bait and the macs that fell off the sabiki were swimming in the back of the cockpit! Scuppers were fully submerged. Going to have to move the bait tank forward for sure.

I've got the 1995 version of the same hull with the same bait tank mounted in the same location. Even when that is fully filled, fuel tanks full, 10 gallon fresh water shower tank full, and 3 guys fishing on the back, we do not get water on the deck through the scuppers. Since you had water dripping out the transom when you drilled holes, that part concerns me. Did you seal the transom back up with the water inside or did you let it dry out?

FWIW, my prop is 15.5" x 17" on a 175 Yammy. Normal cruise in flat conditions is 4200 RPM which is about 25 knots.
 
OnoEric said:
Socalinsd1 said:
Also regarding the weight issue, wow your not kidding. We went out with a full tank of gas and my bait tank only 1/2 full which is about 150lbs and is centered at the back of the cockpit. Me and my buddy were making bait and the macs that fell off the sabiki were swimming in the back of the cockpit! Scuppers were fully submerged. Going to have to move the bait tank forward for sure.

I've got the 1995 version of the same hull with the same bait tank mounted in the same location. Even when that is fully filled, fuel tanks full, 10 gallon fresh water shower tank full, and 3 guys fishing on the back, we do not get water on the deck through the scuppers. Since you had water dripping out the transom when you drilled holes, that part concerns me. Did you seal the transom back up with the water inside or did you let it dry out
FWIW, my prop is 15.5" x 17" on a 175 Yammy. Normal cruise in flat conditions is 4200 RPM which is about 25 knots.

Now that is very revealing. It would appear that I am way overloaded. I tried to let it dry out for several days before resealing everything. Is it even possible for these boats to absorb that much water? My local fiberglass guy offered to check it out and do a moisture reading. I better take him up on the offer. You guys are great, thanks for all the input thusfar.
 
I tried to let it dry out for several days before resealing everything. Is it even possible for these boats to absorb that much water?

Yeah, it's possible to absorb enough water to affect performance. What's not possible is to 'let it dry out' ... :uhm
 
If the transom is 'wet' and I mean really wet. it won't dry out in a few days. It won't dry out in a few months!
That said, although a wet transom can be a big issue, it won't add a ton of weight.
 
The OP has the advantage of living in San Diego which is typically a low humidity place... especially the last few weeks, we've had a lot of 95 degree, 12% humidity, 20-25 knot wind days... If the transom hasn't been wet too long, it's not over a large area, and you drill enough holes, you can dry out a transom in a month or two (or maybe a little less). That's not something you could do in south Florida... :-)

I do agree that the entire hull would have to be seriously waterlogged for it to make the boat sit significantly lower in the water, and if that was the case, there would be probably be other symptoms like blisters and stress cracks.

But, it might be worth inspecting some of the flotation foam to make sure that's not water logged. Without cutting up the deck, you can get to a couple spots of it through the inspection ports for the fish box and livewell through-hull fittings.
 
OnoEric said:
The OP has the advantage of living in San Diego which is typically a low humidity place... especially the last few weeks, we've had a lot of 95 degree, 12% humidity, 20-25 knot wind days... If the transom hasn't been wet too long, it's not over a large area, and you drill enough holes, you can dry out a transom in a month or two (or maybe a little less). That's not something you could do in south Florida... :-)

I do agree that the entire hull would have to be seriously waterlogged for it to make the boat sit significantly lower in the water, and if that was the case, there would be probably be other symptoms like blisters and stress cracks.

But, it might be worth inspecting some of the flotation foam to make sure that's not water logged. Without cutting up the deck, you can get to a couple spots of it through the inspection ports for the fish box and livewell through-hull fittings.

New #'s today on the lake. Flat conditions, just myself and 1/2 tank gas and optimal trim.

4000 rpm cruise. 22.6 mph

5000 rpm. 26.6 mph

6000 rpm wot 35.6 mph

Numbers from GPS. Foam behind livewell and fishbox is dry. I indexed my prop and hub the day before so I will remove it tomorrow and see if that has changed.
 
Socalinsd1 said:
New #'s today on the lake. Flat conditions, just myself and 1/2 tank gas and optimal trim.

4000 rpm cruise. 22.6 mph

5000 rpm. 26.6 mph

6000 rpm wot 35.6 mph

Numbers from GPS. Foam behind livewell and fishbox is dry. I indexed my prop and hub the day before so I will remove it tomorrow and see if that has changed.

Does your GPS read mph or knots? Your numbers are similar to mine if they are in knots, but slow if mph.
 
OnoEric said:
Socalinsd1 said:
New #'s today on the lake. Flat conditions, just myself and 1/2 tank gas and optimal trim.

4000 rpm cruise. 22.6 mph

5000 rpm. 26.6 mph

6000 rpm wot 35.6 mph

Numbers from GPS. Foam behind livewell and fishbox is dry. I indexed my prop and hub the day before so I will remove it tomorrow and see if that has changed.

Does your GPS read mph or knots? Your numbers are similar to mine if they are in knots, but slow if mph.

GPS does both. I reset the values to mph based on what others have said for the testing. I may have found the culprit however. After indexing the prop, I removed it today and my scribe marks have indeed moved a full 180 degrees from the prop hub. My local prop shop has a 14.75 diameter by 19" pitch 3 blade that I am going to try out and I will see if they can put a new hub in my current prop. I assume the slipping prop hub is causing the lower than normal cruising speeds. Hoping to get back on the lake in a couple days and will report my findings.
 
Socalinsd1 said:
I may have found the culprit however. After indexing the prop, I removed it today and my scribe marks have indeed moved a full 180 degrees from the prop hub.
This is the kind of tip I keep an eye out for. You've picked up on a tell tale sign before it becomes a completely spun prop.
:goodjob
 
Lt.Mike said:
Socalinsd1 said:
I may have found the culprit however. After indexing the prop, I removed it today and my scribe marks have indeed moved a full 180 degrees from the prop hub.
This is the kind of tip I keep an eye out for. You've picked up on a tell tale sign before it becomes a completely spun prop.
:goodjob
Thanks, What's weird is that the motor would still rev to 6000 WOT. Shop seemed surprised too, seems like most of the time its all or nothing with the prop. Couple pics note marks on inner and outer hub.

IMAG0693.jpg

IMAG0692.jpg
 
I have the same boat with a 200 Yam four stroke and mine tops out at 42mph....yours should top out at 44mph....at 5500 rpm's....you wouldn't want to run at 6000 rpm....if you're not getting 40+ MPH with yer two stroke.....you have a problem :-|
 
One indication that the prop is slipping is an increase in RPMs from the RPMs of a secure hub. The couple that I've spun both worked well at lower RPMs, but would break lose under heavy loading. Had one even shed the body of the prop ... :wink:
 
I repowered last year with new Yamaha 200 four stroke and get 43 mph on GPS at 5600RPM.
 
Headed out San Diego bay today with the new 14.75 x 19" prop which I found on EBay for $50. Not a bad deal for a ss prop but I did have a new hub installed for good measure. Anyway With 1/2 tank and 1 passenger my numbers are much better.

4000 cruise 25mph

5800 wot 40 mph

I also had an intermittent spark issue on #5 cylinder which might have been limiting my power output. She's running like a champ now.
 
Seems to be still off. I had a 2003 208, hardtop, with a 2003 200 Yamaha hpdi. Cruise 3900 rpm 29-30 mph, WOT 5800 50 mph. That is trimmed up nicely, 2 people, 1/2 tank gas loaded for day trip, cooler. etc. Maybe my hpdi ran a little stronger?