fixed the float switch and caused another problem

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2ndChance

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Hello all,

I went to replace an old float switch to the bilge pump on my 1993 adventure 208. When I went to screw in the new base for the float switch, the screw actually broke off a piece of fiberglass down in the bilge. There is a slightly elevated part of the hull down there which I assume was made that way specifically to mount bilge pump and float switch so you don’t accidentally make a hole in the outside of the hull. It’s a pad and looks to be about 6” wide by 12” long and about 1” tall. The material under it is soft – almost looks like fiberglass matting. I have marine-tex and am just waiting for it to warm up around here (New England) to try a repair. The damage is about the size of a dime, so not bad at all. Am I worried about nothing? There is no damage to the outside of the hull and I assume the glass is pretty thick along the keel. Is it possible that material could get waterlogged if I don’t repair it? The reason I ask is because getting to the actual spot is tough – very tight space.

I appreciate it.

Joe
 
Usually a pad for the pump/switch is simply a piece of wood (in Grady's case) glassed to the hull bottom, then glassed over and gelcoated. Sounds like you just knocked some gel off. I would simply take some 5200 and put a good glob over the spot to cover and seal it, then re-install your switch. The 5200 will kick off, seal the area, and you'll be good to go...
 
Thanks. When you say the 5200 will kick - off, what do you mean?
 
While we are on the topic - how long do bilge pumps last anyway? The boat has an 1100 rule in it. It has most likely not been run for more than a few minutes in its life - the former owner kept the boat on a trailer and it was not bottom painted. The pump looks original, the boat is a 93. It's possible it was changed over at some point, but hard to tell. It runs, that I do know.
 
2ndChance said:
While we are on the topic - how long do bilge pumps last anyway? The boat has an 1100 rule in it. It has most likely not been run for more than a few minutes in its life - the former owner kept the boat on a trailer and it was not bottom painted. The pump looks original, the boat is a 93. It's possible it was changed over at some point, but hard to tell. It runs, that I do know.
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Since you don't have a baseline to go from, I'd change it out...NOW! That and the float. Cheap insurance for something that is vital to your boat's well being...
 
when you mount your new switch, seal your screws, that soft wood under your crack is most likely rotten wood, I ran across the same trouble, the wood was rotten and smell like a swamp. I had to clean out the old mess and install a piece of starboard. When they make the boats, they just cover over a piece of ply and that stuff soak up water like a sponge if given the chance. check it out and see if you have the same trouble.
 
I came up with a idea but can't sell it to any one , but here it is. I came up with a SS screw with a two part epoxy on each side of the screw, so when the screw is put in it mixes the two and self seals the hole making it great for something like this, or any boat building. I just need some one to buy in on it.
 
freddy063 said:
I came up with a idea but can't sell it to any one , but here it is. I came up with a SS screw with a two part epoxy on each side of the screw, so when the screw is put in it mixes the two and self seals the hole making it great for something like this, or any boat building. I just need some one to buy in on it.
Click to expand...

Freddy,
Great idea, and if you can find a machine that can apply the individual parts of the epoxy to each side of the screw...quickly...with little waste...can handle #6 up to #14 screws...you've got a winner! Did I mention anything about packaging?...
 
Yeah, I'll change out that rule and get a new one down there. I did change the float switch. Hard to tell if the wood is rotted - it seems to be encased in fiberglass matting. The hole I'm plugging is smaller than the size of a dime, and the bilge has rarely seen water. I'd love to change out the wood, but like I say, it's a really tight space to work in - I'm not a small guy and I was barely able to get the float switch in. I think I'll use 5200 on the hole and the screws and make sure it's all tight down there.
 
Grady used a piece of 1/2 in ply glassed over onto glass hull with their usual heavy roven.
May have used caulk to land wood in place on hull to hold.

Pump screws should be caulked, 5/8 inch long max.

No problem with hull no matter what unless you start drilling holes to the middle of the earth.

If the wood is wet but still holds tight a screw meaning wood is not rotted then fine. It cannot be dried out if wet. No need for caulk then.
When it rots will not hold a screw then pump will dislarge (not good).

The glass skin can be grinded off, plywood replaced, new glass back on - easy cheap DIYer job depending on access.

I'd use 2 layers of 1708 as skin, rounding over the wood edges so the glass takes the bend when laying up.

I'd cut the wood larger if you think a bit tight now (as I did), not too much larger though.
 
good info. The new float switch screws held firm, so I'm hoping the wood is not rotted. It's hard to tell, since the hole I need to fill is so small. I did see the heavy roven. I'm going to put the 5200 on there for now and keep an eye on it.

Thanks for all the advice everyone.
 
When you put 5200 in/on something, it's for longer than 'for now'. Considering you have limited working room, you might want to use a sealant that won't be as tenacious if you ever want to remove it. 5200 is primarily an adhesive, and a very good one ... :wink:
 
Also, epoxy does not bond well to plastic...that includes Starboard (polyethylene)...for bonding plastic, 5200 may be better.....for wood, use epoxy...Bob's scenario is correct on a Grady. I have experienced the same.
 
What i like to do is before installing the pump, i put a little 5200(the size of a nickle) under the blue removable strainer, then screw it down. If the plywood gets rotted and screw would not hold, the 5200 will hold it in place. Whenever you do a routine maintenance on the pump you will know if the plywood is rotted because the strainer will start moving. If you want to remove the strainer, remove the two screws, then get a guitar string or piano wire or something similar, slide it under it and with couple of strokes it will cut through the 5200. Now is a good time to change the wood.
 
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