fuel issue, squeeze bulb wont fill

[exudedude]

I got a 1990 VX 250,twin tanks with a brass valve. I filled up the aux. tank 2 weeks ago for the 1st time and was gonna use that fuel today. (the tank was cleaned prior to) never had an issue. I went to use her today and the bulb won't fill. She was looking a little worn so I replaced her. I still could not get her to pump. I swapped her back to main tank and still the same thing. I kept squeezing and trying to start her and bam it was like a plug of crap came loose and it filled. I started the motor, she kept starting and dying. Finally she fired and ran 30 mins. and died and bulb went soft again. It will not refill

I have checked and tightened all connections and looked for leaks. The handle was a little loose on the tank valve so I tightened the main nut and then the handle was hard to turn. The boat has never had e10 in her ever, strictly marina fuel from Oniels marina in St.Pete The onlt thing that makes sense to me is that tank switching valve is somehow bad..... what do you guys think? It is the original I believe, the boat is a 1990 GW Gulfstream.



Thanks

 

[seasick]

I got a 1990 VX 250,twin tanks with a brass valve. I filled up the aux. tank 2 weeks ago for the 1st time and was gonna use that fuel today. (the tank was cleaned prior to) never had an issue. I went to use her today and the bulb won't fill. She was looking a little worn so I replaced her. I still could not get her to pump. I swapped her back to main tank and still the same thing. I kept squeezing and trying to start her and bam it was like a plug of crap came loose and it filled. I started the motor, she kept starting and dying. Finally she fired and ran 30 mins. and died and bulb went soft again. It will not refill

I have checked and tightened all connections and looked for leaks. The handle was a little loose on the tank valve so I tightened the main nut and then the handle was hard to turn. The boat has never had e10 in her ever, strictly marina fuel from Oniels marina in St.Pete The onlt thing that makes sense to me is that tank switching valve is somehow bad..... what do you guys think? It is the original I believe, the boat is a 1990 GW Gulfstream.



Thanks

Does the bulb squeeze and stay collapsed or does it just keep squeezing but not filling?

If it collapses, something is blocked prior to the bulb. If it squeezes and squeezes but doesn't fill or collapse, either the check valve in the bulb is bad (or reversed) of there is an air leak somewhere.

 

[exudedude]

I got a 1990 VX 250,twin tanks with a brass valve. I filled up the aux. tank 2 weeks ago for the 1st time and was gonna use that fuel today. (the tank was cleaned prior to) never had an issue. I went to use her today and the bulb won't fill. She was looking a little worn so I replaced her. I still could not get her to pump. I swapped her back to main tank and still the same thing. I kept squeezing and trying to start her and bam it was like a plug of crap came loose and it filled. I started the motor, she kept starting and dying. Finally she fired and ran 30 mins. and died and bulb went soft again. It will not refill

I have checked and tightened all connections and looked for leaks. The handle was a little loose on the tank valve so I tightened the main nut and then the handle was hard to turn. The boat has never had e10 in her ever, strictly marina fuel from Oniels marina in St.Pete The onlt thing that makes sense to me is that tank switching valve is somehow bad..... what do you guys think? It is the original I believe, the boat is a 1990 GW Gulfstream.



Thanks

Does the bulb squeeze and stay collapsed or does it just keep squeezing but not filling?

If it collapses, something is blocked prior to the bulb. If it squeezes and squeezes but doesn't fill or collapse, either the check valve in the bulb is bad (or reversed) of there is an air leak somewhere.

It does not stay collapsed, it just won't fill.

 

[BobP]

It's the antisiphon valve.

 

[exudedude]

It's the antisiphon valve.

I had already replaced the bulb today and the new one worked once so you think the antisiphon is bad on the new bulb?

 

[seasick]

It's the antisiphon valve.

I had already replaced the bulb today and the new one worked once so you think the antisiphon is bad on the new bulb?

I think he is referring to the anti siphon valve on the fuel tank.

If the valve sticks closed, the bulb should collapse when the motor is running (actually as it stalls). If the valve is stuck open, the motor will run but the bulb won't prime.
If the valve alternates between sometimes stuck open and sometimes stuck closed, you could have all the issues you are seeing.
If the valve is partially open, the bulb wont prime and the motor may starve at higher speeds.
You also need to check all the fuel lines between the bulb and filter and between the filter and tank. An air leak will cause the bulb to not prime. Also check the fuel filter to make sure it is seated and sealed properly.

 

[AlK]

Squeeze the primer bulb with the outlet end pointing upward, it will be much more effective and the bulb will become firmer much faster.

 

[exudedude]

It's the antisiphon valve.

I had already replaced the bulb today and the new one worked once so you think the antisiphon is bad on the new bulb?

I think he is referring to the anti siphon valve on the fuel tank.

If the valve sticks closed, the bulb should collapse when the motor is running (actually as it stalls). If the valve is stuck open, the motor will run but the bulb won't prime.
If the valve alternates between sometimes stuck open and sometimes stuck closed, you could have all the issues you are seeing.
If the valve is partially open, the bulb wont prime and the motor may starve at higher speeds.
You also need to check all the fuel lines between the bulb and filter and between the filter and tank. An air leak will cause the bulb to not prime. Also check the fuel filter to make sure it is seated and sealed properly.

My bad I was mis understanding what he wrote, I do not believe there is an antisiphon valve on my tank. It is one long tank and partitioned off. There are welded elbows with the hoses directly connected. I have traced the lines to the fuel selector valve and there is not one there either.

My tank is the original Grady tank with all the "NMMA" stickers and tags.
So was a antisiphon requied when my boat was built in 1990? If so where else could it be?

 

[seasick]

It's the antisiphon valve.

I had already replaced the bulb today and the new one worked once so you think the antisiphon is bad on the new bulb?

I think he is referring to the anti siphon valve on the fuel tank.

If the valve sticks closed, the bulb should collapse when the motor is running (actually as it stalls). If the valve is stuck open, the motor will run but the bulb won't prime.
If the valve alternates between sometimes stuck open and sometimes stuck closed, you could have all the issues you are seeing.
If the valve is partially open, the bulb wont prime and the motor may starve at higher speeds.
You also need to check all the fuel lines between the bulb and filter and between the filter and tank. An air leak will cause the bulb to not prime. Also check the fuel filter to make sure it is seated and sealed properly.

My bad I was mis understanding what he wrote, I do not believe there is an antisiphon valve on my tank. It is one long tank and partitioned off. There are welded elbows with the hoses directly connected. I have traced the lines to the fuel selector valve and there is not one there either.

My tank is the original Grady tank with all the "NMMA" stickers and tags.
So was a antisiphon requied when my boat was built in 1990? If so where else could it be?

I believe there should be one. It would be right at the tank where the fuel pickup is. It looks like a plain old fitting, maybe a 90 degree fitting. Are you sure that the piping is welded and that there isn't a threaded insert with the elbow screwed in?

 

[exudedude]

Would my antsiphon be at the vent? I just crawel around like a rat and saw one of the ptap fuel vents had come apart.

 

[seasick]

Would my antsiphon be at the vent? I just crawel around like a rat and saw one of the ptap fuel vents had come apart.

I don't think so.

 

[exudedude]

It's the antisiphon valve.

I had already replaced the bulb today and the new one worked once so you think the antisiphon is bad on the new bulb?

I think he is referring to the anti siphon valve on the fuel tank.

If the valve sticks closed, the bulb should collapse when the motor is running (actually as it stalls). If the valve is stuck open, the motor will run but the bulb won't prime.
If the valve alternates between sometimes stuck open and sometimes stuck closed, you could have all the issues you are seeing.
If the valve is partially open, the bulb wont prime and the motor may starve at higher speeds.
You also need to check all the fuel lines between the bulb and filter and between the filter and tank. An air leak will cause the bulb to not prime. Also check the fuel filter to make sure it is seated and sealed properly.

My bad I was mis understanding what he wrote, I do not believe there is an antisiphon valve on my tank. It is one long tank and partitioned off. There are welded elbows with the hoses directly connected. I have traced the lines to the fuel selector valve and there is not one there either.

My tank is the original Grady tank with all the "NMMA" stickers and tags.
So was a antisiphon requied when my boat was built in 1990? If so where else could it be?

I believe there should be one. It would be right at the tank where the fuel pickup is. It looks like a plain old fitting, maybe a 90 degree fitting. Are you sure that the piping is welded and that there isn't a threaded insert with the elbow screwed in?

Looked again and it is welded at both fuel lines.. sorta weird.

 

[LUNDINROOF]

For what it's worth, I had all the same problems you are having on my main tank. I removed the antisiphon valve and it worked perfect. Within a couple of days the same thing started to happen on my Aux. tank. Again, I removed the valve and it worked fine.

I think all Grady tanks have the valve unless a previous owner removed them, and like me have not had a chance to replace them.

I think I must have picked up a lot of trash when I filled the tanks. Both valves looked like they were clogged with pieces of wood. I have not had a problem for three years now and I change the fuel filters twice a year.

 

[ahill]

Is the tank selector valve switched to the tank you're trying to draw from?

 

[exudedude]

Is the tank selector valve switched to the tank you're trying to draw from?

Yes it is....

 

[hotajax]

Bad Bulb

For the short run, see if it will start just by cranking the engine. I don't even bother with the bulb - even after sitting for 2 wks waiting to go fishing again, she turns over in about 5 seconds.

 

[BobP]

The antisiphon valve is the nipple the feed hose clamps to at the tank.

Look down the barrel, it will have what appears to be a ball bearing in there, that's the valve, it's spring loaded.

 

[exudedude]

Since everything was original, I replaced all hoses from the vents to the engine, thru hull vents, the tanks selector and a yamaha grade primer bulb. The cost in parts was $225. 2 hrs labor later a couple of squeezes and she filled. The motor fired right up. I still never found the anti siphon valves at either tank and there was no ball in the nipple either.I really don't know what culprit it was, but I suspect it was the tank selector, she was in prett bad shape.

 

[BobP]

How you you know the hose fitting was not an antisiphon valve?

 

[BobP]

By the way I just spent 525 bucks on motor parts for maintenance, and the labor is me.

Get used to it.