Getting the most for the least on my new, old Grady...

MooseheadDoc

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Greetings to all. I've been a "lurker" on the site for a while and enjoy reading the advice of contributors. The threads stay on track without degenerating into opinionated name-calling, which is refreshing (unlike many of the threads I've followed on The Hull Truth and similar). I am more than happy to get critical feedback that is helpful. Having said that...………

Short back-story: I live, work, and boat on Moosehead Lake in Maine. I sold my boat at the end of the season with plans to save winterizing/storage costs and find my next boat in the spring (not sure about where you live, but COVID has driven our boat and real-estate markets crazy. Inventory is low, prices are high). Old boat was a '01 Pro-Line 19' CC with '03 Suzuki 140hp 4s. Ran great, but wanted a little more boat for the big lake. Obviously I didn't wait for Spring.

I bought the following:
'93 Grady White Adventure 20 (based on my review of archived brochures, the first year of this model, and the precursor of the Adventure 208)
'02 Johnson 175 2-stroke

The following work was recently completed by seller (a marine engineer/mechanic): new hydraulic steering added, panels/gauges replaced/rewired, new OEM VRO pump, new power pack/plugs/wires, carbs rebuilt, new optical sensors and tstats.

I have run the boat few time, and she will be hauled this week or next. I am trying to anticipate some spring projects based on the boat's current specs, and my initial observations. This creates a pretty broad list. I have searched and read many of the threads on each individual topic. I'm happy to have references to previous posts, but I'm lumping them all together here to also address things from the standpoint of prioritization and overall cost (time/effort/money). Where would you start? Where do you think the biggest "bang for the buck" is? Personally, I am a low-to-moderate level do-it-yourselfer with zero mechanical skills. So, in no particular order...………

1. Repower? The engine appears to run well and be well maintained. It is obviously a big change from the 140 4s. Given issues around boat age, design, etc, if I do repower I would likely look for a Suzuki or Yamaha 4s 175. Maybe a 200, but I would prefer to stay as light as possible. Good used 4s are hard to find around here. It would actually be easier to buy a used boat with the desired engine, swap them, then flip the boat with the loss being the cost of the engine. Not sure the gain in performance, mileage and would be worth it in the end...….

2. Performance- On the few runs I've taken the boat runs well, but is not performing optimally. The engine starts and idles beautifully. However, rpm @WOT is 4400 to go 24mph (online sources say 4500-5500 expected). By the specs, the 20' Grady is about 1000 pounds heavier than my old 19' Pro-Line and is certainly 'feels heavier' to operate. I don't have prop specs, but will check in the spring to see if I'm over-propped. The boat does not have trim tabs. She feels like she rides with the bow a little high, but it may just be me adjusting to the new hull. When I trim the bow down using engine tilt I actually lose speed. Maybe I'm losing prop efficiency, but maybe I just don't know my boats sweet for trim yet. Bottom is clean, no excess load or weight (that I know of. may try to get her on a local truck scale in Spring). I'm not looking for fast, but I would like to see if I can get the rpm range up and the top speed into the high 20s if I can.

3. Fishing Power Options- I am a casual fisherman. I won't be heading to the coast to go offshore. I enjoy spending some time chasing salmon and togue around the lake, which means slow trolling- about 1.5-2 mph. In the old boat I avoided the need for a kicker by putting a trolling plate on the Suzuki. It worked like a dream. I don't think this is a good idea with the current power. So, unless I repower to a 4s I'm considering a kicker. No transom plate now. Swim platform on starboard side, well-patched holes from an old transom plate on port. New transom plate, used outboard (8hp? bigger?) and EZ steer should work. I suppose a larger electric (ie- Minn Kota 80) could work, but I have no experience with those. Or I could just go back to fishing from my angler's kayak...……….

4. Trim tabs- independent of the repower and performance issues above, thoughts on adding trim tabs? "self-adjusting" hydraulic tabs are cheap, but I feel like I'd be happier spending a little more to get adjustable electric or hydraulic.

Those are the high points. The boat needs very little in terms of cosmetics or hardware- partly because of the good condition, and partly because I don't need a pretty boat. I'll do some simple repairs on some gelcoat chips and cracks, upgrade the anchor/rode/line. The full enclosure is in excellent shape. There may be minor cuddy window leaks to mitigate. But that's all the small stuff that I'm willing to do myself.

Any and all thoughts are greatly appreciated...…….

Joe
Beaver Cove, ME
 

Sdfish

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My 2 cents, I have a '99 208.
I would try to dial in that Johnson and run the boat with the current power for some time. You want to make sure this boat works well for you.
I would also check the Transom Cap or Bang plate where the motor sits. There are lots of threads on this forum that describe some issues we have encountered.
In terms of trolling, that 2 stroke will not be optimal. There was a recent thread here on adding a bracket to a 208 for a trolling motor.
I don't have any experience with tabs, my boat does not have them.
I would also check all the thru hulls, pry off hatches, and thru hull and bilge plumbing. I changed all my pry off hatches with spin off and all replaced all the hoses for thru hulls. You can also just replace the gaskets on the pry off hatches.

If it were my boat, I would not add the kicker motor until I was comfortable with the current set up and knew this was the boat for me. You have run the boat and may already know that though.,

Best of luck with the boat. I love my 208!
 
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MooseheadDoc

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Many thanks.

I had failed to mention the non-engine work done by the seller. All thru-hulls are stainless and in good condition. He replaced all seacocks and hoses to baitwells, gas tank hoses, and new bilge pump/float switch and raw water washdown pump. He drilled out the drain fittings on the transom near the engine mount (sorry, don't if these have a real name. are these also scuppers?) and replaced the old fittings with brass. He indicated the transom core at these sites was in good condition. I have done no formal moisture testing, but the transom appears sound by "tap test" and leverage.

Will change the hatch gaskets at minimum. Good idea. Haven't been on the transom cap/bang plate threads. Will check those out.

Follow-up question: Have not removed gas tank deck hatch, have only inspected via access hatches. Structurally seems solid. Any value in removing and re-seating the entire hatch (other than better view of gas tank)? If so, any experience with re-bedding it? And while I'm on the gas tank- nothing to suggest leak. Clean, dry bilge, no indications of water in tank, and sign of fuel loss. Also, we have only ethanol-free fuel at the marina pump.

Functionally the boat seems a perfect fit so far. Only 1ft longer in the slip, but functionally twice the boat compared to the 19CC. Took a foliage tour on the lake Sunday with the wife and 3 dogs. Balance of cuddy space and ease of walk-around bow access under way-great. Cockpit depth-great. Dry ride-great. Comfort and visibility with enclosure while underway- great. We are in the "downsizing" phase of life and can't imagine needing more boat.
 

Sdfish

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Hi Moose - good to hear that the seller took care of that maintenance! Sounds like he took great care of the boat in general.
My boat has a polyethylene fuel tank and there is no hatch to remove. If you don't smell fuel, I would not mess with it - other may have have more experience here. You could take a look in the round inspection hatches and if all good leave it alone. Grady does recommend hosing off the fuels tanks in their owners manual. You may be able to find your owners manual on their website. I never washed my fuel tank - it is the plastic one so I don't see the need.

I came out of a 17 whaler and agree, this is a much bigger boat. I am really enjoying mine and I am sure you will too. I am actually using the cuddy more than I thought I would, my son and I switch off taking naps on our offshore trips, what a luxury!
 

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As you already figured out, good used 4s are hard to come by right now. Putting a new 4s on your boat is a big investment and best made if you know you're keeping that boat for a long long time. I have a 95 192 with a 95 Evinrude 175. I love the boat and the engine is nice because I can still work on it. It's fickle and the kids at the marina always flood it putting it into the slip from the rack. I'd asked my buddy who owns a dealership about a used 4 s to replace it and he said they're few and far between right now. I like you asked about repowering with a new engine and he said I could have 15k to 18k with rigging depending on the engine in to this 1995 hull. Long story short, I just bought a 2000 192 with a 2016 200hp Yamaha for 14k and already have an offer on my 1995 for just under 10k. It's just my opinion but if you want a newer engine buy that boat and sell yours. Swapping out engines and controls can eat up a lot of money.
 
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Sdfish

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HT is right - I do miss working on and maintaining my old 2S. And if you don't need the extra range, and your motor is running fine don't invest.

My 2S lost a cylinder and I invested about $15k- $17K on my new 4 stroke, I also had a bunch of other work done. When I bought the motor, I also got a 6 year warranty. I love my set up and range now.
 
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MooseheadDoc

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Appreciate the opinions.

Regarding power, the plan is definitely shaping up to be making the most of the current 2 stroke. It seems to be running well, albeit with room to improve performance. It meets my current and foreseeable needs.

Definitely will enter next season with the intention of running the 2S, continuing to evaluate the boat, and go from there. I only have $8K in the boat (including engine/trailer), so unless I hit a rock or discover it is radioactive, I think I still have some value to play with if I eventually choose to repower.

The other good news is that the more time I spend on the boat, the more I like it. Today I pulled off all the access hatches and removed the cockpit deck plate (or whatever you call the large deck section over the gas tank). I understand they eventually eliminated this panel and went to just access hatches. I’m sure there are good reasons, but I sure love that access to the tank, hull and bilge. I was very pleased to find everything in apparently very good shape. Everything looks and taps-out as dry. Very clean bilge. I rebedded the screws, replaced the plate, and re-caulked. Once I replace all the access pry-hatch o-rings it should be a fairly tight space.

Since I am committing to the 2-stroke for now I will have to address my trolling needs. A neighbor is offering to gift me his old Minn Kota. At that price I will probably give it a shot, but I personally don’t like that option functionally and aesthetically. I may be revisiting the transom mount/kicker threads in the spring.

Thanks for all the input!

JB
 

MooseheadDoc

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Well, since you asked...

Here are a few pix- some from a distance, which flatter more, and a few close-ups of ‘project spots’...
 

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PNW_Drifter

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Did you post your prop pitch? I didn't see it in your thread. I'd address that first. If your engine can rev to 4400 it's probably a fine engine. I wouldn't replace it. Just prop it right, not a big deal.

It's an old boat, I'd just enjoy it. It will still do what new boats do.
 
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MooseheadDoc

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Haha. Great advice. That’s the plan.
Short answer to your prop question is 14 1/4 x 17” stainless.
longer version if you are interested at:

When the mechanic was winterizing he found no spark in 1 cylinder. I expect that between fixing that (hopefully simple), addressing the bottom (which was MUCH rougher than I realized when we hauled her), and trying another prop (15x15, maybe) I’ll see some performance improvement.

I’m also going to add a bracket and a small Yamaha trolling motor (9.9?), which will give me fishing capability and a reliable ‘get home’ engine.... JB
 

PNW_Drifter

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Haha. Great advice. That’s the plan.
Short answer to your prop question is 14 1/4 x 17” stainless.
longer version if you are interested at:

When the mechanic was winterizing he found no spark in 1 cylinder. I expect that between fixing that (hopefully simple), addressing the bottom (which was MUCH rougher than I realized when we hauled her), and trying another prop (15x15, maybe) I’ll see some performance improvement.

I’m also going to add a bracket and a small Yamaha trolling motor (9.9?), which will give me fishing capability and a reliable ‘get home’ engine.... JB

Oh no, sorry to hear about the no spark on hole #1. Hope it's got compression and it's an electrical issue.
 

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I bought a 208 last year. I took it out once into the Gom and that night when I got home I washed it then went online and ordered Bennett trim tabs.

That hull requires them imo. It leans a ton in a cross wind and I found the same thing, you can't get the bow down without scrubbing a bunch of speed.

I bought these. https://www.hodgesmarine.com/benbolt1212-bennett-bolt-12x12-electric-trim-tab-system--co.html

And this switch. https://www.hodgesmarine.com/benbrc4000-bennett-rocker-switch-control-fbolt.html

The tabs help that hull feel like a bigger boat. No, you can't run 28-30 in a 3 foot chop but tabs will help you balance things so it doesn't pound and meets the seas in the best manner.
 
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MooseheadDoc

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Been off the boards for a while. Spring is coming slowly to Northern Maine, but the ice is out and the boat is back in the water!
Follow-up from my OP....

1. The Old Outboard- when she was put away for the winter there was no spark in 1 cylinder. When she came out there was no spark in 3. Long story short.... after replacing the coils and some wonky wiring completed by a previous owner my mechanic has the old Johnson running reasonably well. Now getting 32-34mph at 5300rpm at WOT, cruising mid 20's at 4500rpm. Hopefully this will last a season. It's impossible to find repower options right now.

2. Other power- I added a brand new Yamaha T9.9 on an adjustable transom bracket for trolling and get-home power. Working well so far. Planning to add EZ Steer for convenience.

3. other updates- scraped and painted bottom for less drag. Probably helping some. May try a different prop at some point, but performance as-is is acceptable. Same with trim tabs- might add in a future season if I keep this hull but repower the primary outboard. For now, I'm happy to be in the water and running with relatively cheap fixes.
 

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Sounds like this boat is working out well for you! I agree with the plan - run that 2S for as long as you can.