New Electronics install DIY project or professional install?

[maboat]

I am looking to install some new electronics in my boat. I am considering doing it myself for a few reasons, to save some money, get it done the way I want no one cares more about my boat then me, and lastly I would like to have the knowledge of where and how everything was installed to be better able to trouble shoot should there be issues in the future.

I am looking a bunch of Raymarine equipment

• E-120
• Raystar 125 Antenna
• DSM 300 Sounder
• Smart Heading sensor
• RD418 Radome Radar
• Bronze Thru Hull Transponder

I am a very mechanically skilled individual but have never installed marine electronics. I am very comfortable snaking wires cutting the opening for the E-120 etc. So I guess my question is am I better off leaving this work to a certified installer? My biggest concerns would be placement of the transducer and the Radome for best performance.

Any thought would be appreciated

 

[gradyfish22]

Biggest issue is thru hull, if you've never done it before atleast have someone help you who has a few times before. It does require some know how to do it correctly, not only placing it so you do not produce cavitation to the prop which can ruin it, but to make it perform the best as well as keep your hull water tight. As for the other electronics, they can all be done yourself if your handy. Only thing with radome and gps antenna, the sweep of the radome should not be at the same height or after 1 season the gps antenna will be burned out. I suggest a 24" radar arch they run about $200 to get the radome heigher then the gps, and mount the gps at the heighest point on the hardtop. The radome will be higher and not be an issue. the manual's will also state how far away they should be from one other and other antennas and such. If you have the time and some do it yourself in you you can do much of it yourself, but I'd leave the thru hull to someone with some expereience in doing it before. I would do as much of the other stuff yourself to save money though.

 

[NOTHING ELSE MATTERS]

I did all the install my self on my boat , twin 4212's, radar,vhf's. The only thing i let the dealer do is the install of the thru hull, and i would also suggest to let the dealer do that or a pro. installer. Other than that is pretty easy, i had installed twin E120's on my previous boat and twin E80's on a boat before that. If you follow the instructions you can't mess up. Good luck and let us know.

 

[NOTHING ELSE MATTERS]

Oh, about the heading sensor, very important to install it in a place that you will never store any metal items, it is very sensitive to metal objects.

 

[BobP]

If you state what model boat you have, it will help , in where other members placed the components as well as the radome and FF sensor. Your system is very common.

The equipment doesn't require any calibrations or special tuning like the olden days, it's all plug and play, and the members here and at the factory service help number are available to answer questions. There's more complexity in selecting, installing, setup, and operation of a home theater system.

And as a DIYer, everytime you turn the system on, it will remind you of your own handiwork & skills, as it does me when I do it.
The savings is gravy.

Over time I've found it nearly impossible now to get work done exactly as I specify it, even though hired hands promise they will, but never do. Even getting my boat blocked the way I want on the seasonal haulout, I gave up. It's so pathetic I wonder if these guys even know where exactly a transom is on a boat. As soon as the hauler drives away, out comes the floor jack and I just do it over myself.

 

[Greg B]

PM me an email address and I have a list from GW of suggested locations by model for transducer mounting.

 

[gerrys]

Where are you located?

I've done plenty installs and never had an issue. I'd recommend you lay out the cabling in advance to determine routing and connection locations. There's nothing there that should trip you up.

 

[maboat]

It's a Tournament 307 I know it is a newer model but if anyone has suggestions for locations or pictures of previous installs I would love to know. Thanks for all the suggestions based on the feedback I am going to get the dealer to do the transducer and take the rest on myself. Any have experience/opnions on in hull transducers?

 

[maboat]

Sorry I mean to mention I am in MA

 

[Tuna Man]

I installed the electronics on my last boat, not that tough if your familiar with pulling wires, handheld power tools, critical measurements and layout, simple wiring shematics (most of today's equipment is plug and play) and neat with a caulk gun.

It appears that you are contemplating a thru hull vs an in hull transducer. I am going through the same thing at this moment for my 06 Marlin. I am leaning towards a 1000 watt in-hull model M260. I will be contacting Furuno (my radar/chartplotter), Airmar and probably Grady for their recomendations. From my research, if you follow the instructions the in hulls are not diffucult to install.

 

[pilotart]

Wiring

There is an interesting discussion on 'THT':

http://www.thehulltruth.com/forums/thre ... 68&start=1

I do hope that GW has improved their wiring installation skills since mine was built. :lol:

 

[BobP]

There are other members here with 307s.

 

[NOTHING ELSE MATTERS]

I can't help you with the location of your electronics, never had a 307, but i had a 306 which is the same hull, if you install a in-hull ducer, should be in the back of the boat as possible, i would think same should be for thru hull ducer as well. If you go wiht in hull, you will not have temperature, you have to add one at the transom, so this way no holes for ducers in the boat.

 

[NOTHING ELSE MATTERS]

Had the in hull in my 306 with the twin E80's and worked awsome.

 

[maboat]

Ok so I decided I would buy the equipment myself and do the installation with the exception of the transducer I had this done before the boat went into the water.

Here is a list of the equipment I will be installing

• Single E120
• DSM300
• Smart Heading Sensor
• SR100 Weather
• RD424D Radar
• Seatalk HS Switch
• Seatalk to Yamaha Command Link Cable to integrate engine data
• Seaview Radar mount with light pole for GPS and Sirius Antenna
• Icom VHF with 8’ Antenna

I have a few questions and would also like to hear anyone suggestions/input as well.

• I purchased a Blue Sea Fuse block to connect all the power for the equipment. Should I install a master switch or individual switches for all the components or no switches at all and just allow the equipment to run when the batteries are on.
• I have read that the SeaTalk connection on the back of the E120 does supply power to the SeaTalk network but have read conflicting reports on if it can supply sufficient power to other devices. In my case the only device I would be powering would be the Smart Heading sensor. Can I use the power off the E120 or should I provide a separate power connection to the Smart Heading Sensor.
• The radar mounting area (reinforced section) on the 307’s hardtop is not over the electronics box. Any suggestions on the best way to route the wires or ways to hide them in conduit to make it look better and protect them a little. I would guess that the closets support is 12-18” away.
• I assume all RF grounds and shields just go to the same negative ground connections as the electrical connections. Are there any special considerations I should be aware of

Again I would appreciate any input that folks can offer to ensure I end up with the best possible install and the fewest number of headaches during the install.

 

[NOTHING ELSE MATTERS]

I don't know what boat you have, but there is no reason to install a master switch for any of the electronics you mentioned. If you have a circuit breaker panel and have exta place for another circuit breaker, is a good idea to power the buss you have with that breaker. The idea for the breaker is that you can cut off your electronics if need for service and also if you ever have a short between the buss and the power. It is recomended to power on and off your electronics(especially your e series) from their own on/off switch. You should ALWAYS power off your electronics from their switch and then at the end of the day shut down your dedicated breaker or the nain breaker. If you don't have a breaker panel, then a master switch is an alternative option to be used as the breaker whould be used but you have to add an inline fuse between the switch and the power. 15 amp fuse or breaker is more than enough for your electronics. Another way to figure your fuse/breaker size is to add all your fuses supplied with your electronics and go to the nearest SMALLEST fuse/breaker available. You will never be at the most of the demand of your equipment unless you power everything at the same split second which is imposible, unless you left everything on and powered off from your breaker or master switch which is NOT a good idea. You can even add a dome radar later with the set up you have, just plug and play. Open array radar would need an additional power from the buss and upgrade the breaker/fuse.

 

[NOTHING ELSE MATTERS]

Sorry, just noticed you have a 307 and radar. What you do is install your radar mount where is supossed to go, run the wires in the pipe of the mount then exit at the bottom of the mount. Then rout your wires over the electronics box, drill a hole big enough to be able to run all the wires(thicker wires go in first), run all the wires above the hardtop into a wire loom and fasten down with plastic straps every 6 inches or so or sun a bid of 4200 along the sides of the wire loom(remember to have the sliced part of the wire loom between the two beads of 4200. At the hole you made on top of the electronics box install a s/s clam shell big enough to cover the hole and make sure you face the open end aft and fill the whole thing with 100% GE almond silicone.

 

[maboat]

The reason I was considering switches was because none of the equipment has power switches besides the E120. Does the E120 power down the Radar and other equipment (DSM300 SR100 Etc) when you turn it off? The radar is the only item I really worry about as the rest of the equipment has a very low draw.

As far as the wiring from the radar dome my thought had been to come down through the hardtop under the base of the pedestal mount. Then run the wires across the underside of the hardtop. My logic was to keep the wires out of the elements and keep the penetration under the mount to also help prevent any leaking. If I understand you correctly you are suggesting going across the top of the hardtop and down into the electronics box. I do have a clam shell so this would be an option as well.

 

[NOTHING ELSE MATTERS]

The radar does not start spinning until you hit the transmit button or if you hit the radar button. I mention about the wire on top of the hardtop just for the looks(you don't see the wire under the hard top), if it's o.k by you, running the wire under the hard top IS a better idea as to not to be exposed to the elements. On another thought, you can even install the radar mount on top of the electronics box and back it with a piece of 12"x12" starboard 1/2" thick and the biggest washers you can find for 1/4-20 bolts, that would make it very sturdy. All the items connected to the E series will shut down when you shut down the display, your VHF has it's own power/volume button.

 

[NOTHING ELSE MATTERS]

If you install the VHF up in the electronics box, there is a power buss in there and you can get power from there.