Rod Holders on integrated transom

Hi,
I have a 2004 282 Sailfish. I choose to install a single transom mount rod holder with a backing plate in the middle.
I looked at installing flush mounts from the top. Just did not have the inside space for the angle. The flush mount works great. I just wanted the one in the center, so I could put a rod there for trolling or whatever. There is room on either side for additional onesrod holder 3.jpgrod holder 2.jpg if I choose. Had to move the boarding ladder holders down slightly. I ordered the rod holder on ebay from GW performance welding. Quality product.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Single-Rod...037167?hash=item27c793322f:g:V7MAAMXQcWVRFNzv

Oceanbean
2004 GW 282 F225
Long Island
 
That looks good.

This boat won't do much trolling, mainly interested in storage for other rods when bottom fishing.

The straight holders will work perfect for this.
 
I did the same thing the OP is considering on my 22 Tournament, in a similar space behind each jump seat. I have a low bridge between my slip and open water, and can't start off with rods in the arch. Works great. IIRC, there was wood under that fiberglass, but I may disremember incorrectly.
This pic was taken before I added them, but shows the location.
 

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As far as the drain goes, if you have a cupholder nearby, you can tap into its drain line. that way you avoid the water from draining into the bilge. I did that when adding additional rod holders on my boat. Without the drain hose they would have drained on the batteries and associated wiring.
 
The cup holder drain line just routes right to the bilge anyway.

I agree with keeping the water off the batteries.
 
ElMar said:
The cup holder drain line just routes right to the bilge anyway.

I agree with keeping the water off the batteries.
Click to expand...
My cup holders drain to the deck, and I put the rodholders next to the cupholders so in my case it worked perfectly.
 
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The external ones are the better soln if you ask me. No big holes to drill or water intrusion and you may be able to get washers/plate inside if you cut an access hatch on the other side.
 
Yeah, but this boat will be doing a lot of island hopping with kids swimming off the back and hanging out.

I don’t want stuff cluttering up the swim platform area.

I like the clean install of flush mounts.
 
A thought... if you find that the area you cut into has a wood core (it may not because the area isn't all that deep fore to aft), you can easily ream about a 1/4" of the core out then just backfill it with thickened epoxy. Same for the screw holes (oversize, fill, redrill). Depends on the effort you want to put into it, but this is one of those "best practice" type things. Not required, but you will NEVER get water intrusion into a core this way.
 
Or put a coat of 5200 on all exposed areas and let dry. Then seal the rod holder down very well. I still don't like the water access to the bilge with or without tubes at the bottom. I'd look for holders with the rubber caps on top.
 
Found this picture on THT.

I will finally have time to tackle this project, probably next week.

Got round 90 degree rodholders and caps for the bottom.

Fire up the hole saw!!
 

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looking forward to seeing your results. Are you going to add backing plates? I'm currently looking for a place to add a swivel rod holdern on my Voyager 248, have toyed with this idea.

Please post up pics of the completed project..


Thx
 
I wasn't going to add backing plates for ease of installation as these will mainly be storage for rods.

Probably no room for plates, I may not be able to get bolts in some locations so will go self tapping screws if I have to but, swivels will definelty need plates.
 
guess i'm too old school. i'd need to bed and have a backing plate with nylock nuts/bolts. I don't screw or drill unless absolutely needed on a boat.
 
Me too. But if it’s between not putting in a holder or using screws, it’s getting screws.

There is no way to reach up over a foot after bending your arm under the seat to install bolts, let alone a plate.
 
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