The livewell pump on my 2003 330 express just died on me. I want to change it out but I am having some trouble figuring out how it is attached to the seavalve. Does anyone have any tips? The boat is new to me and I am not familiar with this type of livewell pump setup. Thank you in advance!
Rule 1100 GPH Livewell Pump
- Thread starter Jtravis
- Start date
Jtravis,
The motor on that unit is easily removable. It was designed to be swapped out by depressing the white release tab, and twisting the motor off of the housing.
You can even see in my picture the directions are written on the motor.
Just download the owner's manual for the step-by-step.
No need to mess with anything else, except removing the two wires that are attached to the head unit as well.
Best,
Lee
The motor on that unit is easily removable. It was designed to be swapped out by depressing the white release tab, and twisting the motor off of the housing.
You can even see in my picture the directions are written on the motor.
Just download the owner's manual for the step-by-step.
No need to mess with anything else, except removing the two wires that are attached to the head unit as well.
Best,
Lee
Make sure the electrical connections are OK. The motor may not be shot. Also note that the pump impeller may be jammed. If left on, the motor may have burned out. Problem is that if the impeller is jammed. the new motor will suffer the same fate.
Personally, if I can get to the pump without needing followup surgery, I would replace the whole unit
Seasick, I know what you mean. After spending a day working through the live well on my seafarer, I told my wife that if I had a heart attack, I wouldn't know it, from the soreness in my chest already. This was my solution, after the picture above.
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Thank you very much for the replies! My livewell pump appears to be one that does not come apart. I guess it will have to come out if I am going to fix it. Every time I switch it on it pops the breaker so I think there is either something stuck in the impeller or the motor is shot. 
Mine seems like it doesn't have a quick change motor. Do I need to use any sealant in the threads?
You can use a pipe sealant or Teflon tape. The connection should be tight but not over tightened. Hand tight is OK as long as you can a decent grip on the pump base. If tape, try to keep the wraps from folding over the end of the threaded pipe so that when tightened, small pieces of tape don't get cut off and clog the internals.
Nice job. I did a similar thing on Myotherboat for the mid bilge. I made a bracket out of stainless sheet because I had it. I like the ruler idea. Now you can say " Hey I have 5 inches of water in the bilge
"The one down side to the bracket approach is that the pump may sit a little higher and there may be more residual water than there was with the pump mounted directly on the hull.
Even if the motor is not quick change, you can still reach down there and release the two tabs on either side of the motor and remove it from the base to see if the impeller is clogged, or will turn freely by hand. Popped breakers could be in the wiring, rather than the pump. If you can reach the connection at the pump, disconnect them and run the brown and the black straight to the battery to test the pump.
As far as the threads go, if you have a ball valve screwed straight to a through hull, then you will have a mismatch of threads on both ends of the ball valve. Both the through hull, and the live well pump have straight threads, to accommodate the backing nut. The ball valve has tapered NPT threads on both ends. Therefore, my main concern would be how many threads do I engage? If I used any sealant, it would be a paste, rather than tape, so that the threads will screw in further.
As far as the threads go, if you have a ball valve screwed straight to a through hull, then you will have a mismatch of threads on both ends of the ball valve. Both the through hull, and the live well pump have straight threads, to accommodate the backing nut. The ball valve has tapered NPT threads on both ends. Therefore, my main concern would be how many threads do I engage? If I used any sealant, it would be a paste, rather than tape, so that the threads will screw in further.
I didn't see any tabs but I will be sure to take a closer look tomorrow. Maybe it is a stuck impeller. I wonder if I can free it up some how
Are we confusing livewell pumps with bilge pumps? My livewell pump is mounted on the seacock like Lee pictured and is quick change for the motor and impeller. I'm seeing pictures of bilge pumps? Livewell pumps often get clogged with grass, etc. and can be cleared pretty easily.
My livewell pump is also mounted on the seacock. My question was how are the two attached? Are they threaded or is there some kind of packing nut?
It is threaded on the top of the seacock. But before you call it a bad pump. Take the motor and pump out and try to spin it and try and run it it’s a cartridge replacement. Mine often gets jammed up with grass and since it’s an induction motor it may not have damage the motor.
Thank you so much for the replies you have been super helpful and I really appreciate it!
My mistake, the bilge pump has tabs, the livewell pump unscrews from the ball valve if it is the old style, or the motor is, I believe, push and turn to remove on the new style.
Divajean
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That ruler trick is super smart, wish I'd seen it before bruising up my chest,not to mention how many times I fished my glasses out of bilge great job