Is anyone know , what kind of sealant should I used after relocated motor height for mounting bolt? What is the best way to apply sealant when pushing the bolt in?
Sealant for motor mounting bolt
- Thread starter fishermanaddict
- Start date
Sorry for the confuse. I just raised my engine up 2 hole to get the right height, since my captiplate (spell) is too low. I want to reseal the mounting bolt for the motor to protect the water going in the transom. I was wonder what kind of marine sealant is Grady White dealer use when the rig the motor.
If you want to seal the transom itslf first seal the hole with epoxy to keep the core from absorbing water and rotting out later. Then use 4200 to seal the hole and keep water from entering the boat. Put some of the caulk in the hole and make sure the entire surface area is covered then put some on the shank of the bolt and reassemble. If you just goop the hole youll push most of it out and it will be on your threads as well. If you just do the bolt most will end up outside the hole under the head and you wont know if the entire hole is covered.then just torque the bolts up. Make sure theres some sealant under the washers as well.
Richie's right. Actually, any good marine polyurethane sealant/adhesive will do, 5200/4200, Sikaflex, Boatlife, Bostic 920... 
What i like to do also to where the bottom two bolts are mounted is to fill the whole area of the "adjustable" 2" gap.
NOTHING ELSE MATTERS said:
When I was at Stamas (hanging mostly Yammis), I used to use an aluminum colored silicone from AIM supply to do that...almost matched the Yammi blue, looked real sharp...
Thanks for the input, I just bought boatlife in white color. The sealant I bought is removable not like 5200. Could I seal the decks and around the console with it?
FWIW, i had hung a motor on a boat and sealed with 5200, two years later i had to remove the motor, so i removed the bolt and had the motor tied to an engine lift, well, when i removed all the bolts, the motor(150 HP Yiammi) was still on the transom. try pulling from the bottom, from the top from sides, nothing, i start lifting the motor with the lift and i was picking up the boat off the trailer :shock:, well took a couple guys of pulling from the lower unit and put shims of wood from the bottom of the plate towards up and finally the motor was unstuck. I had put 5200 on the perimeter of the engine mounting plate, never again, too good of a job.
NOTHING ELSE MATTERS said:
...Been there, done that...TOO many times!
The key is to put the sealant in the holes, don't cover the whole mounting plate with it. Sh!t, you could probably pull the bolts and run 3 times around Lake Toho at WOT before the motor would break lose if you bond the plate!
fishermanaddict said:
Shoot some sealant in the holes of the transom. Run some beads of sealant the length of the bolts (put your washers on first!), then insert your bolts. Little tip, run the bottom bolts from the inside out. That way, if you ever have to adjust the motor height, it will be a lot easier with the nuts on the outside. Clean off the excess, and enjoy!
And if you're worried about torque specs, just tighten the damn things 'til you can't hardly turn them, they'll be fine!
But the biggest thing to remember for any holes in your boat.....
Use epoxy to keep water out of you core/laminate/transom
Use sealant/caulk to keep water of of the boat
Use epoxy to keep water out of you core/laminate/transom
Use sealant/caulk to keep water of of the boat
mostly none...thats why this forum has a multitude of owners looking for help on how to repair or replace a wet and rotted transom......dumb ass aluminum caps on notched transoms with no resin on the wood core, unsealed garboard drain wood core holes, unsealed thru-hulls, unsealed transom mounted transducers, unsealed angle iron/aluminum brackets inside the transom/bilge instead of a resin fillet...need I say more....since I lived it I have first hand knowledge of this crazyness.....
look at a boat manufacturer like Scully or American Custom yachts....cold molded, mostly wood and epoxy constructed...built strong/fast/light and durable....if you konw what your doing with wood, its an excellent boat building material......if you rely on caulk and a "good enough" attitude....transom and stringer rebuilds are in your future after 10+ years of ownership.
look at a boat manufacturer like Scully or American Custom yachts....cold molded, mostly wood and epoxy constructed...built strong/fast/light and durable....if you konw what your doing with wood, its an excellent boat building material......if you rely on caulk and a "good enough" attitude....transom and stringer rebuilds are in your future after 10+ years of ownership.
yeah, well, the key phrase is "production world"....I don't care who it is...time is money and no one really cares what their product looks like or performs 10-15 years down the road....because at that time, its time for a new model!!!! Blame it on technology at that time.
it's the used boat guys who get to deal with the issues.....and it makes economic sense , so to speak......the new boat buyers pay top notch prices for new products which lose there residual value exponentially in the first 10 years, so they pay bigtime.....but they have excellent performance for those years and they get home every day with a load of fish and a happy crew, never having to call SEATOW during that time......they got their moneys worth, the boat performed as advertized.
And then, the used boat guy walks away with the deal of the century, right?...but then is delegated to deal with gel coat cracks, electronic issues, bilge pumps that work intermittently, fuel tanks with leaks, wet and rotted transoms and "what engines for repower at 15k a piece'?
So in the end, who really wins? Pay me now, or pay me later
Anyway.....the question comes down to, how well do you want to build the boat and how long do you want to make it last?......if you're the manufacturer, what do you do?
it's the used boat guys who get to deal with the issues.....and it makes economic sense , so to speak......the new boat buyers pay top notch prices for new products which lose there residual value exponentially in the first 10 years, so they pay bigtime.....but they have excellent performance for those years and they get home every day with a load of fish and a happy crew, never having to call SEATOW during that time......they got their moneys worth, the boat performed as advertized.
And then, the used boat guy walks away with the deal of the century, right?...but then is delegated to deal with gel coat cracks, electronic issues, bilge pumps that work intermittently, fuel tanks with leaks, wet and rotted transoms and "what engines for repower at 15k a piece'?
So in the end, who really wins? Pay me now, or pay me later
Anyway.....the question comes down to, how well do you want to build the boat and how long do you want to make it last?......if you're the manufacturer, what do you do?
richie rich said:
Richie,
You do what you HAVE to do to make sure that your name is not tarnished at some point in time...
To many builders are out after the high profit margin (trust me I know, the average genset install costs us $5K max, yet we charge $10K). Lower the profit margin, still make money, and a GW, or PL, or Whaler will still be admired as a boat that was built right 20 years down the road...
But we don't think like those guys do... :evil: