survey results

[roughrider123]

Just got my results for 1990 overnighter, engine is a 2004 150 yamie 2 stroke that has 120 to 125 # compression and 35 hours on the meter. Is this good compression?
1-port aft gunnel delamination
2-port chine repair 6" by 6"
3-hull gouges due to loading/unloading
4-gelcoat cracks and crazing on deck
5-elevated levels of moisture in vessel transom tie downs area
6-high levels of moisture and delamination in starboard cockpit area
7-high levels of moisture in vessel gunnels rod holders and midship cleats area
The vessel was found to be in average condition with a fair level of maintenance.
The surveyor suggested I remove all hardware and let it dry out over winter and epoxy in spring all areas mentioned and she will outlast me.
The price with 96 trailer valued at 650.00 was at 12500.00 before inspection.
Any comments on this before I take it out on the water for sea trial I would really appreciate.
I think I can get the price lowered with survey results. Whats the value on the engine alone?


Thanks, Roughrider

 

[seasick]

deleted

 

[ahill]

Sounds like it should be named "Dock Attacker".
I learned early on, don't fall in love with a boat because of mfr. or price.
Experience is a cruel and expensive teacher.

 

[JeffN]

The survey results do not seem all that glowing. Go ahead and sea trial it and see if you like the model boat anyway I guess. If you did get the boat would you be doing the repairs yourself or having someone else do the work? It seems to have a lot of "wet areas", you have to make the decision ultimately but I think I would keep looking. What are comparable boats going for in your area? Seems kind of pricey for a project. Thats my 2 cents anyway.

 

[Grog]

The compression is fine (4% difference), as long as the motor seems to have been taken care of it'll last a while. A running motor is worth at least $750 (you can get $250 for just the lower unit). If the cockpit area moisture is in the covers, it's a common problem and a fairly easy fix. The delamination in the gunnels would scare me away though. Unless it's a really sweet deal ($5k), walk. You're looking at gas tank, hoses, thru-hulls, glass repair, and always an unforseen problem or 2.

 

[uncljohn]

I think its a bit overpriced for the condition you describe. Even w/ a functioning motor. Assume you'll need to repower in 5 years ($10-20K depending on power) because either the motor has never been used (extremely low hours) or its old and ready to go anyhow. Without delamination, I'd possibly offer $10K. With delamination, that's a lot more work (besides the aforementioned hoses, thru-hulls, clamps, etc). I like the $5K offer. Though I'd thnk twice about asking to sea-trial a boat you are not really interested in. Some brokers will charge you $ or ask for a deposit. (Mine made me pay the fee to forklift it in and out of the water). And if its truly saturated in the hull, you will not get the ride a good version of the same boat will give.

And the removal of hardware and long-term storage of the boat WILL allow parts to dry. That is not "absurd". It might take longer than "over winter" or you might need to facilitate drying w/ a heat lamp or vacuum pump. I bought an 88 Seafarer 7 years ago that had moisture issues in places. Pretty much did what the surveyor suggested and all is good to go.

 

[seasick]

deleted

 

[roughrider123]

Some clarification is needed. The motor is a 2004 year model with 35 hours on it and considered in very good condition. The boat has small areas of water intrusion around surface fittings and some deck water intrusions. The surveyor considered the boat worth 17,900 after repairs are done. Asking price was 15000. Book was 8850 boat and motor and trailer. The motor alone is 10 grand new and in near new condition. Boat was surveyed in average condition for its age. Check it out at annapolis boat sales in Maryland.Thanks for the comments, keep them coming as I make a decision on thursday.

roughrider out

 

[seasick]

I must be losing my mind.
I deleted my earlier posts since it appears that I am hallucinating.
I swear I read that the motor was a 1997 model. I also though the compression range was 100 to 125.
Maybe I should stop the beer before dinner.
Sorry for the confusion.

 

[JeffN]

Seasick I thought so too, maybe we are both losing it. There have been two edits though.

Roughrider - Enjoy your sea trial. Let us know how it goes.

 

[seasick]

Seasick I thought so too, maybe we are both losing it. There have been two edits though.

Roughrider - Enjoy your sea trial. Let us know how it goes.

So maybe this is a conspiracy to make us go mad....

 

[Tucker]

I'm in the market for a boat and have looked at 3. It escapes me how someone can pay top dollar for a premium boat like a Grady and either beat the crap out of it, neglect it, or just do stupid things. Just looked at a 2000 Sailfish, high-dry kept, very dirty, but I felt it could be brought back. Had numerous screw holes in top sides. On inspection of the hull I saw 3-holes in the transom from an old transducer. The holes were partially filled with looked to be latex caulk. I walked a way shaking my head...

 

[JeffN]

So roughrider what did you do?

 

[Curmudgeon]

If you intend to do the work yourself, it'll be worth (to you) the value of the engine, trailer, and whatever sweat equity and materials to put in. In current condition? It's worth the value of the engine and the trailer. You're talking about some pretty major repairs, not just re-bedding a few fittings ... :uhm

 

[roughrider123]

Thursday I contacted the surveyor again for one more discussion on the boat. Left rear gunnel cleat area showed delamination from corner to 7 inches forward. Also the starboard cockpit area in front of the seat had an 8 inch square spider crack area with delamination shown . These are from meter readings and tapping with a rubber mallet. I planned to drill open areas and remove hardware and let dry over winter and then use a product like CPES to seal the core and fill with laminating resin and then epoxy filler. Also planned to open the gas tank hatch and see if it needs replacement.Transom showed in good shape.
I have combed the internet for info on grady sales and repairs done most often on this model and the power option with hours of use is my 1st concern. Second is the amount of work the boat needs which is expected with the year of make. Third is I need a decent trailer for hauling which is the way I get to water.
I've seen alot of gradys in the 8000 to 10000.00 which need major upgrades to motor issues and I prefer the Yamaha to other options. There are really few boats in the 11000 to 16000.00 range for this model and they also have older power plants but newer hulls. I think I can repair these areas and keep the boat for 10 years.
With that said I could not make the sea trial saturday because of the hurricane. We are rescheduled for next weekend. Sorry for mis-info in the original post as I was in a hurry and did'nt review. Shame on me. Please keep the comments and advice coming.

Roughrider out

 

[Tucker]

West Systems makes some remarkable fiberglass repair products. Note sure they make something that would repair and return to original integrity the area holding cleats. I'd research this carefully, determine the cost and labor required, and make a desision. If you got a young family, that's a huge consideration. Job is going to be a high hour ball-buster. I think $8K - $10K is more fair price. Do you have the skills to do this job?

 

[seasick]

As mentioned by myself and others, wet cores just don't dry out when exposed to the air. Depending on the temp and humidity, wet ares can take months or almost forever to 'dry' Saying that removing the cleats to let air in will dry out a wet core is to me misleading. Now if the wetness is limited to the immediate area around bolt holes, removing the hardware may help but the moisture penetration has to be small.
De-lamination is also tricky to deal with and is usually caused by moisture that can freeze in the winter and cause the separation of layers. In addition to having to get the water out, you also need a way to get resin in to reattach the materials. That may be very difficult or impossible to do without cutting open the affected area.