Suzuki 200 Fly by Wire

[Hound III]

I am buying a 2004 GW 270 Islander with 225 Yamaha's. I am thinking about re-powering with twin 200 Suzuki Fly by Wire at Sandpiper Marine in Accomac VA. Would appreciate any thoughts or experience with the Suzuki motors or Sandpiper.

 

[Mustang65fbk]

Can't give you too much feedback other than the maximum horsepower for your hull is 500 hp, which twin 200's would only put you at 400 total hp. It would be an extra 200 lbs or so of weight, but I'd maybe ask them about some twin Suzuki DF250AP's. My neighbor has a 2005 GW 270 Islander of which it's a pretty big, heavy boat and think you might want a bit more than just twin 200's on it. The Suzuki 250's also have the electronic throttle on it, which would definitely be a perk for getting them as well, and I can't imagine that they'd be too much more than the 200's. If/when I ever go to repower, it'll likely be with a Suzuki DF250AP for a multitude of reasons but the biggest would be pricing, warranty and the electronic throttle. If you wanted to save some weight, you could also go with Mercury 250's, which their lightest version is 505-527 lbs a piece. Either way, good luck with whatever you decide on doing.

 

[Sardinia306Bimini]

I had several Suzukis
1 2011 DF200 V6 (mechanical) sold at 3600 hours
1 2013 DF300 (digital), sold with 1600 hours
2 2017 DF300AP (digital) sold with 600 hours

No mechanical problems at all, the 2017 DF300AP had some (only visual) software hiccups what seems to be solved as finally
But none of them let me down, never
Suzuki make their own gauges and the integrate directly in the Engine Bus and are not connected by the Lowrance Engine Interface. Make sure you get the latest model without the need of the Engine Interface and the new SMG4 gauge

The DF250 has two versions, the 200-250 HP V6 with push-pull cable and the 250-300 HP AP with digital controls.
Both are great motors and the advantage of the AP version is questionable.
Biggest advantage that you can easily swap propellers on a twin setup to test if the work better turning in or outwards and on a single setup tu buy and use either LH or RH propeller.

Chris

 

[Hound III]

Can't give you too much feedback other than the maximum horsepower for your hull is 500 hp, which twin 200's would only put you at 400 total hp. It would be an extra 200 lbs or so of weight, but I'd maybe ask them about some twin Suzuki DF250AP's. My neighbor has a 2005 GW 270 Islander of which it's a pretty big, heavy boat and think you might want a bit more than just twin 200's on it. The Suzuki 250's also have the electronic throttle on it, which would definitely be a perk for getting them as well, and I can't imagine that they'd be too much more than the 200's. If/when I ever go to repower, it'll likely be with a Suzuki DF250AP for a multitude of reasons but the biggest would be pricing, warranty and the electronic throttle. If you wanted to save some weight, you could also go with Mercury 250's, which their lightest version is 505-527 lbs a piece. Either way, good luck with whatever you decide on doing.

Wow, thank you. I was about to goof. I had looked at an older model boat with 450 max hp. I validated what you said on the GW site.

 

[Hound III]

I had several Suzukis
1 2011 DF200 V6 (mechanical) sold at 3600 hours
1 2013 DF300 (digital), sold with 1600 hours
2 2017 DF300AP (digital) sold with 600 hours

No mechanical problems at all, the 2017 DF300AP had some (only visual) software hiccups what seems to be solved as finally
But none of them let me down, never
Suzuki make their own gauges and the integrate directly in the Engine Bus and are not connected by the Lowrance Engine Interface. Make sure you get the latest model without the need of the Engine Interface and the new SMG4 gauge

The DF250 has two versions, the 200-250 HP V6 with push-pull cable and the 250-300 HP AP with digital controls.
Both are great motors and the advantage of the AP version is questionable.
Biggest advantage that you can easily swap propellers on a twin setup to test if the work better turning in or outwards and on a single setup tu buy and use either LH or RH propeller.

Chris

Thank You. This is a giant learning experience for me, as my world has been diesel. The ability to simply be able to change rotation is huge. I am learning a lot. I just hope to apply it correctly.

 

[Sardinia306Bimini]

You will love your outboards and particularly the Suzukis are very silent below 4000 rpm.
They idle so silent that you will try to start them when they are already running.

To be clear, to change rotation under the cowling you have to swap the propellers too, otherwise the boat goes wrong direction.

You may change rotation once to check what works better, in- or outward rotation, then you will leave it and not change never again. Except you spin one hub and have only one spare prop with the wrong direction aboard, then it comes handy to be able to change rotation, to use one propeller for both outboards.
But in this case you have to change the propeller while swimming and thats not easy and can be dangerous, done that in the marina and would not do it in the open sea if there is any other solution to try first.

Chris

 

[SkunkBoat]

read this thread

https://www.greatgrady.com/threads/265-express-suzuki-df200apxw2.29099/

 

[blynch]

More HP is generally better and you can rarely go wrong with maxing out relative to your HP rating

BUT

Given how many 268s/270s seem to be out there running around on single 250 OX66s I wonder if the 2x 200hp option wouldn't also provide solid performance with a little better efficiency and save you some weight and cost. Hopefully someone that owns one can comment.

 

[Mustang65fbk]

More HP is generally better and you can rarely go wrong with maxing out relative to your HP rating

BUT

Given how many 268s/270s seem to be out there running around on single 250 OX66s I wonder if the 2x 200hp option wouldn't also provide solid performance with a little better efficiency and save you some weight and cost. Hopefully someone that owns one can comment.

Idk... my 2004 GW 228 Seafarer has a maximum horsepower rating of 250 hp, of which my boat has a single F225 on it and is definitely "adequate" in terms of horsepower, though I definitely wouldn't want to go less than that. My boat has a supposed dry weight of 3,510 lbs if you can believe the brochure, comparatively a 232 Gulfstream of the same vintage weighs 4,025 lbs. Then, a 2004 GW 270 Islander weighs somewhat more than that at 4,660 lbs, and then supposedly a 2005 GW 270 Islander had a dry weight of a whopping 5,600 lbs. I'm not sure if that is an error or typo on the brochure or exactly why they changed the weight of the 270 Islander for only one year and then discontinued it right after. That being said, I can't imagine a boat like mine having "adequate" power with a single F225 on it, or "optimal" power with an F250, compared to a boat like a 268/270 Islander that weighs between 1k-2k lbs more and only having between 0-25 more hp than that. That seems like it would be extremely difficult to get it up, as well as stay on a plane. Comparatively, I've even heard about guys with a single 225/250 hp outboard on their 232 Gulfstream complaining about the same thing, and that boat weighs anywhere from 600-1,600 lbs less than a 268/270 Islander. I guess my point would be that I wouldn't even consider a boat of that size with a mere single 225/250 hp outboard. If one truly wanted to go with a single main motor and/or wanted to add a kicker motor on top of that, I'd say go with a minimum of a Suzuki/Mercury 350, or mercury even makes a 400-500 hp single outboard as well. Can't imagine how much a 400-500 hp Mercury would cost, but there is that option out there. On top of that, Yamaha also makes a single F425, though I think the considerably cheaper option would be twin Suzuki's. Just my opinion, of course.

 

[family affair]

I have done exactly what you are proposing earlier this year. You won't be disappointed. Check out my posts for details. Let me know if you have questions.
Unless you plan to run really heavy often, or frequently have conditions and the desire to cruise at 40 + mph, skip the v6s.

 

[Hound III]

I have done exactly what you are proposing earlier this year. You won't be disappointed. Check out my posts for details. Let me know if you have questions.
Unless you plan to run really heavy often, or frequently have conditions and the desire to cruise at 40 + mph, skip the v6s.

Thanks. I am always in chop, and I don't push hard. After much thought, I am going with 200 4's. It just makes sense, especially since I don't make long runs and don't care about max speed. Cost savings are also pretty big.

I have done exactly what you are proposing earlier this year. You won't be disappointed. Check out my posts for details. Let me know if you have questions.
Unless you plan to run really heavy often, or frequently have conditions and the desire to cruise at 40 + mph, skip the v6s.

 

[family affair]

Being a narrow beam boat, the v6s also take up a lot of real estate on the transom. The inline 4s give you more access for servicing and also more room for boarding from the water.
Depending on what props you choose, you will have a 48-50 mph boat.
I did my homework and the df200 APs are the perfect engines for this hull:

• Weight for balance is just right. The Mercs and Yamahas are a little light IMO
• Physical size
• Power - heavy loads, tubing, rough seas - I have never had a want for more power. I can fast cruise at 40 mph and still get over 2 mpg.
• Efficiency - with the right props, you will be amazed what you can get out of the set up.
• Digital controls for twins are worth every penny. Pushing one button to perfectly sync both engines makes rough condition boating much easier.
• The select rotation enables you to carry just one prop. If your counter gets damaged, you can change the rotation and use a standard prop.
• White - the upcharge is minimal. The white engines don't show water spots like the black so they don't constantly look dirty. If you slip your boat, you might want to consider black. To each their own.
• They are definitely quieter than the Yamahas.
• No timing belt.

Cons:

• Oil capacity is over 2 gallons per engine. No timing belt has its trade offs.
• The tilt switch on the engine can only be mounted on the left. If trailering or servicing engines, you have to squeeze between the engines to tilt them from the ground. Your feet will get wet.
• Gage display options are limited with Garmin systems. Simrad is the most compatible. Fortunately the SMG4 gages tell you all you need to know.
• At GW events, your fellow GW owners will question why you went to Suzuki - till you start them!

 

[Hound III]

Being a narrow beam boat, the v6s also take up a lot of real estate on the transom. The inline 4s give you more access for servicing and also more room for boarding from the water.
Depending on what props you choose, you will have a 48-50 mph boat.
I did my homework and the df200 APs are the perfect engines for this hull:

• Weight for balance is just right. The Mercs and Yamahas are a little light IMO
• Physical size
• Power - heavy loads, tubing, rough seas - I have never had a want for more power. I can fast cruise at 40 mph and still get over 2 mpg.
• Efficiency - with the right props, you will be amazed what you can get out of the set up.
• Digital controls for twins are worth every penny. Pushing one button to perfectly sync both engines makes rough condition boating much easier.
• The select rotation enables you to carry just one prop. If your counter gets damaged, you can change the rotation and use a standard prop.
• White - the upcharge is minimal. The white engines don't show water spots like the black so they don't constantly look dirty. If you slip your boat, you might want to consider black. To each their own.
• They are definitely quieter than the Yamahas.
• No timing belt.

Cons:

• Oil capacity is over 2 gallons per engine. No timing belt has its trade offs.
• The tilt switch on the engine can only be mounted on the left. If trailering or servicing engines, you have to squeeze between the engines to tilt them from the ground. Your feet will get wet.
• Gage display options are limited with Garmin systems. Simrad is the most compatible. Fortunately the SMG4 gages tell you all you need to know.
• At GW events, your fellow GW owners will question why you went to Suzuki - till you start them!

Thanks for the detailed information. These are all things that I would not know or think to ask. My boating has primarily been diesel. The speed and consumption information is especially helpful. For the most part I will hold about 25 knots. Two MPG is phenomenal in my book. For now, I will be using Garmin as the boat has a new XSV. It is good to know about the guages being adequate as the XSV is a small screen. I am going to go digital. It seems there are almost no complaints about the Drive by Wire.

 

[family affair]

To be

Thanks for the detailed information. These are all things that I would not know or think to ask. My boating has primarily been diesel. The speed and consumption information is especially helpful. For the most part I will hold about 25 knots. Two MPG is phenomenal in my book. For now, I will be using Garmin as the boat has a new XSV. It is good to know about the guages being adequate as the XSV is a small screen. I am going to go digital. It seems there are almost no complaints about the Drive by Wire.

To be clear, I use Garmin. You can still display gages, but Simrad gives more options.
With the right props you will see 2.3 mpg +over a very broad rpm band.

 

[SkunkBoat]

You are repowering from Yamaha to Suzuki.
The Zuke gauges are really well thought out stand alone gauges (once you learn all the menus)
There is no need to use a Garmin or other MFD for most Engine data.

The Garmin is a great way to display Range and remaining fuel, if you connect the tanks correctly to your Zuke gauges.

You have a small Garmin ..7" or 9"? In dash or on a mount? Which model?
Different models have different capabilities. There is a lot to unpack and consider.

Think about redoing your dash...moving gauges up...make a flat panel...
Now is the time to update the look of your dash. The trend is BIGGER and flat Touch screen and its a good trend...don't fight it...

You can get some ideas here https://www.greatgrady.com/threads/265-x-flat-panel-dash.31837/
or search "dash" for other posts

 

[Hound III]

You are repowering from Yamaha to Suzuki.
The Zuke gauges are really well thought out stand alone gauges (once you learn all the menus)
There is no need to use a Garmin or other MFD for most Engine data.

The Garmin is a great way to display Range and remaining fuel, if you connect the tanks correctly to your Zuke gauges.

You have a small Garmin ..7" or 9"? In dash or on a mount? Which model?
Different models have different capabilities. There is a lot to unpack and consider.

Think about redoing your dash...moving gauges up...make a flat panel...
Now is the time to update the look of your dash. The trend is BIGGER and flat Touch screen and its a good trend...don't fight it...

You can get some ideas here https://www.greatgrady.com/threads/265-x-flat-panel-dash.31837/
or search "dash" for other posts

I would like to go to a flat panel setup. One boat I looked at had used starboard and filled in the old lexan. It was a very clean look.

 

[Boxster964]

I had several Suzukis
1 2011 DF200 V6 (mechanical) sold at 3600 hours
1 2013 DF300 (digital), sold with 1600 hours
2 2017 DF300AP (digital) sold with 600 hours

No mechanical problems at all, the 2017 DF300AP had some (only visual) software hiccups what seems to be solved as finally
But none of them let me down, never
Suzuki make their own gauges and the integrate directly in the Engine Bus and are not connected by the Lowrance Engine Interface. Make sure you get the latest model without the need of the Engine Interface and the new SMG4 gauge

The DF250 has two versions, the 200-250 HP V6 with push-pull cable and the 250-300 HP AP with digital controls.
Both are great motors and the advantage of the AP version is questionable.
Biggest advantage that you can easily swap propellers on a twin setup to test if the work better turning in or outwards and on a single setup tu buy and use either LH or RH propeller.

Chris

I believe the upcharge to the AP is worth it. It's a detuned 300 it is a 4 L not a 3 L like the original 250 mechanical. if you flash it you can be at 300hp. I had a df300 only had one issue in ten years. I had my gauges intergraded into my Lowrance worked nice.