Toilet Question/Need Advice

seasick

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 19, 2008
Messages
9,145
Reaction score
1,312
Points
113
Location
NYC
It would be obvious and has to be close to the battery or battery switch. If the batteries and the switch are in the same locker, the breaker would be there and probably mounted to one of the walls or the transom.
 
Last edited:

Don Davis

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 2, 2020
Messages
354
Reaction score
116
Points
43
Age
59
Location
Courtenay, British Columbia
Model
Seafarer
Ya that’s what I was thinking, the boat was a mess when I bought it from the insurance company so can’t really expect very much, thanks
 

seasick

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 19, 2008
Messages
9,145
Reaction score
1,312
Points
113
Location
NYC
If you are going to do your own rewiring, may I suggest the following: Always use marine grade stranded wire, usually tinned but untinned is OK too. I like to use adhesive lined heat shrink connectors for areas that may have moisture present (like bilges). Get a good crimping tool. Ancor makes em. (there are two different models of the tool, one for non insulated connectors and a different model for insulated. You would most likely use insulated connectors)
The Ancor hand held ratchet crimping tool works for 10 Gauge and smaller wire. For heavier gauge wires like I suspect your accessory feed might be, a different tool is needed and those can get costly. I suppose you might be able to use a non insulated connected with a sleeve of shrink tubing and a vise grip to crunch the connector. If you are going to make up battery cables and only have a few, buy them pre-made. Otherwise you will need a hydraulic crimper with assorted dies.
Don't forget to secure cables and keep things neat.
 

Don Davis

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 2, 2020
Messages
354
Reaction score
116
Points
43
Age
59
Location
Courtenay, British Columbia
Model
Seafarer
Thanks for this information, I’m hoping to only have to add the 40 amp breaker near the batteries and the new 25 amp breaker for the toilet pump when it arrives from Amazon . Then I will reroute the toilet wiring to the panel at the helm basically shorten it with the help of an expert electrical friend of mine. I also need to troubleshoot the main fuel tank level indication as I put a new fuel sending unit in and still can’t read the fuel level, I think it might be in the switch as the auxiliary tank fuel level reads fine on the guage
 

seasick

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 19, 2008
Messages
9,145
Reaction score
1,312
Points
113
Location
NYC
It could be the switch but it could be the main tank sender ( or wiring). In that case it is a bit harder to test the sender especially if you don't remove it from the tank. When you select the main tank, what does the fuel gauge read? Empty I would guess. Before you do anything else, make sure the sender has a good ground connection. It is is grounded to the tank make sure the tank ground is good. The easiest way to test is to connect a length of wire to a battery negative terminal on one end and the ground lug on the sender (make sure the punk wire is attached and that lugs are clean.
 

oasis04

Member
Joined
Dec 8, 2007
Messages
21
Reaction score
9
Points
3
Location
Ophelia VA
Model
Sailfish
I see the reference in the diagram now but have never found that breaker in the boat, I don’t think it’s anywhere in the boat, unless I’m blind...


I can't find the circuit breaker for the head either.
was working flawlessly now the head is dead
 

Don Davis

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 2, 2020
Messages
354
Reaction score
116
Points
43
Age
59
Location
Courtenay, British Columbia
Model
Seafarer
I did find the toilet breaker on my Seafarer in the starboard storage compartment in the cuddy, which I have now replaced . I never found the main house electrical Breaker but did install a New 40amp Blue Sea on the inside of the transom now