transom cap (bang plate)

DennisG01

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#21
Finatic,

One thing to keep in mind... If you read through the whole thread, you may have seen that I asked Trapper about the transom core. Trapper verified that there was no transom core damage/rot. A blown bang cap, depending on how long it has been bad and the severity, can allow water to enter the core. Before you even think about simply fixing the cap, get a survey done on the transom (at least). YOU pay a 3rd party that YOU hire for this. You don't want the seller doing this - you want the surveyor working for you.
 

Finatic

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#22
Trapper and Dennis,
Thanks for the replies and solid information. I spoke to a local Grady dealer today and they said it was a $400-$500 job. Just wanted to get an idea of additional cost ahead. I have a survey scheduled on the boat in 10 days so hopefully the core is dry and I can proceed with purchase. Thanks again.
 

max366

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#23
Here's a 304 SS 1.5 in. angle with mirror finish and it's 20 ga, which should be easy to work with. I bought this to replace most of the cap on my 265 (I haven't received it yet, so I haven't tackled the project yet). The worst parts of my current aluminum caps are the pieces outside of the engines, so I'm going to replace what I can get at w/o removing the engines. Going to use Life-caulk or Loctite PL Marine Fast Cure Adhesive Sealant to attach the angle.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Stainless-Stee ... SwQN5af1~j
 

suzukidave

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#25
nice thread. this is on my list in spring. i am going to use screw jacks to support the header over my garage door.

i need to source those angled pvc side pieces from grady.
 
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#26
I ended up paying 165+ shipping at the dealer for the transom trim ring. It consists of both port and starboard plastic pieces. It does not include the aluminum bottom piece. I will have to find that somewhere else. I am scared to use stainless since the engine bracket is aluminum and dissimilar metals corrode.
 

max366

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#27
I ended up paying 165+ shipping at the dealer for the transom trim ring. It consists of both port and starboard plastic pieces. It does not include the aluminum bottom piece. I will have to find that somewhere else. I am scared to use stainless since the engine bracket is aluminum and dissimilar metals corrode.
I am putting a new engine on my 208 this week. Did the 20 gauge work out for you or was that too thin?
The 304SS angle worked out really well. It's stiffer than you think and has a great finish. After all it's primarily a finish piece, not structural. The sealant is important and I applied it to the angle and transom to be sure it was totally sealed. After one boating season, it still looks like new.
 

Sdfish

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#28
I am in process of replacing the bang plate (and motor) on my 1999 Adventure 208. There was a noticeable bulge on my transom where the motor was mounted. I called Grady and they said they have seen this before and it is not an issue. The transom is dry - I don't see any signs of wetness or rot anywhere on the transom.

Has anyone seen this before? Maybe torque from bolts or motor?

I'm going with 316 SS for the bang plate. Pics attached.
 

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suzukidave

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#29
I ended up paying 165+ shipping at the dealer for the transom trim ring. It consists of both port and starboard plastic pieces. It does not include the aluminum bottom piece. I will have to find that somewhere else. I am scared to use stainless since the engine bracket is aluminum and dissimilar metals corrode.
can you give me a vertical measurement and good photo of those side pieces? on my 1994 223 the original transom trim is all aluminum angle with an ugly mitred corner. i would like to update to using the pvc vertical side/corner pieces from a newer grady and a piece of stainless angle for the horizontal.

i spent some time in september trying to figure this out for both my boats. an hvac flashing or welder/fabricator shop can make you a small piece of stainless or aluminum angle to order. the issue is the inside corner angle. there are no off the shelf aluminum or stainless products to give you a contiuous corner. for the 190, which has a relatively gentle curve, i will have to use thicker aluminum and gradually bend it, because stainless won't stretch that far. for the 223 i need a separate corner piece or live with the mitre. after fruitless googling i have been contemplating cutting pieces of pvc gutter to create a corner piece. if grady makes a piece that's a way better solution.
 

Sdfish

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#30
I believe the Grady part number for the uprights is 10-453. You may want to confirm with your dealer. I was quoted $65 = shipping for the pair.
 

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suzukidave

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#31
thanks. my nearest canadian grady dealer wants c$95 each for that part plus tax and shipping. he is checking with grady for me whether there is a longer version of it available for a seafarer.
 

suzukidave

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#33
yeah, i think a 226 is my best bet for a match. the 223 was discontinued in the 90s in favour of the 225 but i recall they kept building slotted transom seafarers for a long time.

actually, looking at it i will bet the "part" is for the two pieces, since they are mirror images.
 

trapper

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#36
Sdfish, Nice work! Would have liked to have found some polished stainless when I did mine, but could not. Looks great! How did you have the upright (side pieces ) made up to to fit the transom cap (bang plate). Looks like it was made up from one piece of stainless angle. Cheers, trapper
 

Sdfish

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#37
Hi Trapper, the shop doing the install had it made. I believe it was welded and then polished. Boat is still at shop, fuel delivery issue to new motor.
 

mhinch

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#40
Sdfish,
2 quick questions for you regarding this,
- Is that white stuff just 5200 or the like and not a "shim" like in the other bang cap thread?
- Can you provide another picture showing how the vertical elements are terminated?
Thx in advance