Transom cap

Stephnic

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#1
I took my 1998 268 islander in to have the transom cap replace two weeks ago. Pulled both motors off and much to my surprise the transom had a little moisture but it was totally delaminates and separated from the wood. I’ve own the boat since 2010 and sealed the transom cap every season. Now replacing the entire transom. This will be a nice bill when I get. The positive side is the shop doing the work is top notch.
 

Fishtales

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#3
I think water gets in no matter how you seal it unfortunately. It is 20+ year old hull so there will be some work expected. It will be interesting how the so called no wood / no rot matieral holds up. It may not turn to mush, but could delam or get water logged.
 

SmokyMtnGrady

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#4
I think water gets in no matter how you seal it unfortunately. It is 20+ year old hull so there will be some work expected. It will be interesting how the so called no wood / no rot matieral holds up. It may not turn to mush, but could delam or get water logged.
I don't think they used Greenwood XL in 1998. I thought it was not used until 2000 or 2001? I could be wrong.
 

Stephnic

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#6
I did not have much rot at all but while is apart replacing everything. I am NOT replacing the transom cap to prevent any water intrusion. The top will completely glassed closed and also going to glass and finish the motor well drains. The shop is also repairing a couple of lids for the fish boxes and tre door on the transom.
 

Legend

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#8
I do not understand why Grady does not finish the transom as the OP is doing and glass it in and do away with the cap.
 
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#9
Yeah, the cap makes no sense. It's almost like they use it for planned obsolescence. If the transoms on the older Gradys didn't get wet and rot, most of them would still be in the water.

I just got the vinyl material from Grady to replace my aluminum cap. But it's just as flimsy as the metal cap material. But at least it won't corrode. I probably should have it glassed over, but the place doing my repower doesn't do glass work.
 

Stephnic

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#10
i was looking at new motors that what started this. Now there is more where the motors mount on the inside has a plactic cover that Grady puts on there. That all needs to be cut off and fixed. To reinstall the tie downs on the transom two holes have to be cut in the floor near the door on one side and the boarding ladder on the other side. Then both of those holes need to be reglassed. The bill just keeps going up. The good thing is the shop doing the work is EXCELLENT and have done numerous Grady’s. It just keeps getting better and better. Going to the boat show tomorrow in AC. At least that should get me back into the right mind set. HOPEFULLY
 

Stephnic

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#12
I will do that. I am trying to load some pictures but it’s telling me the file is too large. I may have to get my daughter to do it. I stoped there today to look at it and they are making good head way. They are also doing some additional fiberglass work on some hatches and the transom door.
 

Jonah

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#13
Enjoyed reading this, since (as mentioned in another thread) I am probably about to go through this myself. Will be eager to hear how things work out.
 
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#14
Are you using coosa board for the repair? I redid my transom in 2017. It was a heck of a project, but turned out great. I ended up eliminating the cutout transom and moving to full height and adding a bracket. Love it now! 20180121_173340_resized.jpg
 

Fishtales

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#15
I do not understand why Grady does not finish the transom as the OP is doing and glass it in and do away with the cap.
They should but it is time consuming and labor intensive. I don't understand why a broad cap (over the entire transom) which is bonded isn't used. Better than that aluminum that corrodes over time and has a ton of screws to let moisture in.
 

Stephnic

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#16
I was going to use coda board but the shop doing it recommended I use the same material Grady did. I did not have any rot at all it was all delaminated from getting wet.

Now shopping for new motors. Hopefully they the marina will have them shortly. I have a set of Yamaha 150 saltwater series with under 500 hrs everything included.
 

Stephnic

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#18
Transom almost done looks great. You can see from the first picture how wet everything was. Everything was replaced and glassed completely closed with NO transom cap. The drain holes with the brass tubes were class so they are water tight and new brass tubing on order. The swim ladder was removed and all screws where resealed. Now ready for new motors.
 

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