Transom cap

Stephnic

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#23
Yes I will let you know as soon as I get the bill. It should be ready next week. We are waiting for the brass tubes and finishing the cut outs on the top deck.
 

Stephnic

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#25
We replaced everything. The original was green board and that is what I replaced it with. The boat will be ready to be picked it up Monday afternoon. They were hanging the engines today. The rigging tubs also had water in them so we cut drain holes in them and I’m running all new fuel lines they had some swelling. So everything is new and glassed completely closed.
 

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Stephnic

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#30
If your going to keep the boat it is a good investment. It is not cheap over 6K when said and done. I did have the shop do a lot of extras to ensure no water gets in. Those little things add up quick. I had Young’s fiberglass do the work and I could not be more pleased. They put it back together better then the factory. I’ll post more pictures with the motors back on this weekend.
 
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Adventure
#32
What's the best way to seal up the transom cap that is deteriorating? What does everyone use?
Having looked at a couple and after reading a bunch of threads here and elsewhere if your transom is dry I would first remove the motor/motors and cap. Then I would grind out the nice gap Grady fills with some putty and fill the gap with thickened epoxy. Then replace the cap.

And before mounting the motors I would drill out oversize the existing holes, fill them with thickened epoxy and the redrill the correct size holes. Same with any other screw or bolt penetrating the transom.
 
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#33
Had my 96 Islander transom rebuilt in April 2017. The company asked if I wanted to go back with wood (plywood) or coosa, I went back with wood. Called Grady and bitched at them a little and they sent a new transom cap they use in present production boats. Made transom a little thicker than original, top was glassed closed, then put the Grady cap over that and sealed. Before we got the Grady cap, we were going to close the top and gelcoat but glad I installed the new cap. Gives me a little more protection of transom on top. Cannot remember what he used to secure the new cap, just know there are no holes on the top of transom. That aluminum strip that Grady used back in the day was maybe being used for protection of the transom but as soon as you drilled into the transom, that helped start the process of water intrusion. No issues after two years now.
 

Toothpick 10

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#34
Had my 96 Islander transom rebuilt in April 2017. The company asked if I wanted to go back with wood (plywood) or coosa, I went back with wood. Called Grady and bitched at them a little and they sent a new transom cap they use in present production boats. Made transom a little thicker than original, top was glassed closed, then put the Grady cap over that and sealed. Before we got the Grady cap, we were going to close the top and gelcoat but glad I installed the new cap. Gives me a little more protection of transom on top. Cannot remember what he used to secure the new cap, just know there are no holes on the top of transom. That aluminum strip that Grady used back in the day was maybe being used for protection of the transom but as soon as you drilled into the transom, that helped start the process of water intrusion. No issues after two years now.
Scott:

What did that rebuilt cost you in 2017?
 

Halfhitch

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#35
I have always wondered why some major boat manufacturers like Grady and others continued using treated wood many years after lots of man-made materials like Coosa board came out and claimed to be the "be all-do all" answer to boat builders problems. Are there bad things about the man-made stuff that the builders know that we don't? I don't know what Grady uses on current models. Does anyone know if they are still using wood?
 

Stephnic

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#39
Young’s Fiberglass is in Marmora NJ. It is just outside of Ocean City. I had some additional work done around the transom and with everything is was around 6K plus tax. They had to cut holes on the top to remove the tie downs on the transom so I had all that fixed and glassed over back to original. I did not replace the cap then drill holes for the screws that’s where a lot of the water came from originally. This way everything is completely sealed and glassed. The engines are back on now I will take some pictures over the weekend and post them. I can not say enough about Young’s fiberglass these guys are great and looks better then new. They also did the hatches on the boat last year and they are absolutely perfect.
 

OZ WHITE

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#40
Thanks for the info Bob...I am back and forth from SJ and Palm Coast ,Fl...where my boat is ..but i would consider the trailer pull for that kind of work...I am hoping it won't be needed for a while..however it's a boat.