Transom edge seperating under alum mold'g

[newscctv]

Wow - That's some great info ! If the transom turns out to be pretty wet I am surely going to try doing probably just that !wedding dress
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So far I have ground about 1/2 inch from the transom skins where they meet at the top edge (under the aluminum) and were cracked all the way from gunnel to gunnel. Then I reglassed it with the thicker poly-epoxy. The only part I did not do yet is about 18 inches where the motor hangs and is hard to get to. I have been duct-taping over it all to keep moisture out in-case it rains. Also taped over the bilge hole I did not fix yet too. I think before I do anymore I will try and check as best I can to see if the transom is real wet - and if so then I will stop where I am at and try what you suggested (although I need a little more clarification on a few things first). So I should try using a ice-pick inside the bilge on the transom ? Do I have to re-seal where I poked with resin ? How deep and where do I poke ?
What about where the holes are now in the transom that appear to be there to help it drain already ?
Thanks so much !

 

[BobP]

There may be some confusion about what are called transom drains and what a transom is.

Looking from behind the boat, what you see is the transom, it is a structural element of the boat that distributes the motor forces to the rest of the boat.

It's thickness on Grady's is comprised of layers of plywood, called a core.
The core is never to be exposed to anything wet, ever.

Whatever you are referring to as drains, may be the bilge drain, or motor well drain, or floor drain for the deck.

No such thing as a core drain.

When holes are bored thru the transom say to mount the motor, the wood core is exposed. It has to be sealed otherwise water will get into it, hence proper caulking of motor bolts, etc.

The alum transom cap (usually in motor cutout area), is simply a cosmetic trim piece that if not there, one would see the open core end-grain cut of the transom, the end grain needs to me made waterproof under the trim. Alum makes it nicer to look at.

Now, don't know what you are tying to do or figure out ?

 

[cuckoldcreek]

I put part of this in another section of this Forum.. but will try here as well.
I am looking at purchasing a 1991 19'Tournament.

While the transom appears solid, there are 2 stress cracks across the top of the transom, one on either side of the Outboard. They are almost all the way across the top, running from stern to bow and are deeper than just cracks in the gel coat. They start under the metal corner piece at the top of the aft edge of the transom .. and run forward. When the boat is under power, the transom looks solid, no flexing..

Is this a disaster waiting to happen? Other than this and some other cosmetic gel coat issues the boat seems solid. But ya need a strong transom!

I see the mention of a moisture meter. Is this something that a surveyor would have and automatically check for? Seeing all the work involved in fixing the transom.. I really don't want to go there, so if the transom is wet, with the core heading towards rot, I really don't want this boat. Failing a moisture meter.. or poking an ice pick down it (I suspect the current owner would frown on THAT), is there any other way to check the integrity of the transom.

The boat was re powered 3 years ago, and the owner says the cracks were there before the re-power, and the shop said they were just cosmetic.. but then the shop might not have been able to make the sale if they said otherwise.

Any advice would be GREATLY appreciated.

 

[BobP]

Stern to bow you say?

Are you sure it's not the horizontal seam where the liner meets the hull?

Hire a a boat rebuilder or surveyor to evalute boat for you, be sure person has experience (finding things wrong ) with Gradys.

 

[cuckoldcreek]

Thanks for the advice I will look for a surveyor. I will try and post a pix of the crack I took w/ cell phone. I do not believe this is a seam. Thanks again.

 

[richie rich]

that doesn't look too bad...I'd remove the aluminum cap and just check for wetness of the core.....otherwise, it doesn't look catastrophic

 

[BobP]

Oh, you didn't really mean stern to bow !
I get it.

As was advised take the alum cap off. The screw is right where the crack is. May be related.

Ice pick the wood under cap, or even simpler, take the screw out and ice pick hole, push as hard as you can downward. If it doesn't go in, caulk screw before reinserting.

If it goes in, sealing screw doesn' t matter. Get surveyor.