Updating 1988 242G
- Thread starter Captglasshole
- Start date
Did some tinkering with the trim tabs today. Got them working! Well sort of….portside actuator has a leak. Hoping it’s just an O-ring. Ordered some. I’ll replace the top and bottom O-rings on both actuators when they come.
I topped off the pump with fluid and was still getting just a clicking. Disconnected the harness and ran a wire strait off the battery and touched each terminal. Pump immediately kicked on. I cleaned up the connections a little bit and put it all back together. Everything was good after that (minus the aforementioned leak). I guess I now know why the pump didn’t have any fluid to begin with haha
I topped off the pump with fluid and was still getting just a clicking. Disconnected the harness and ran a wire strait off the battery and touched each terminal. Pump immediately kicked on. I cleaned up the connections a little bit and put it all back together. Everything was good after that (minus the aforementioned leak). I guess I now know why the pump didn’t have any fluid to begin with haha
Sardinia306Bimini
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Oct 11, 2023
- Messages
- 201
- Reaction score
- 41
- Points
- 28
- Age
- 59
- Location
- Island of Sardinia
- Model
- Bimini
Before you install the o-rings check very well the ram.
If the system had no auto retract feature ex owner may forgot the tabs a bit down and growth built up and that may damaged the ram and/or subsequently the o-rings.
Changed 2 times the seal of the cylinder of my teleflex steering and cylinder started to leak after short time.
Watching very careful I discovered a tiny damage on the chrome covering of the ram what damaged the seal.
Chris
If the system had no auto retract feature ex owner may forgot the tabs a bit down and growth built up and that may damaged the ram and/or subsequently the o-rings.
Changed 2 times the seal of the cylinder of my teleflex steering and cylinder started to leak after short time.
Watching very careful I discovered a tiny damage on the chrome covering of the ram what damaged the seal.
Chris
I'll be doing some launching/retrieving solo and it would be a hell of a lot easier with trailer guides. I've seen some online but I think I could rig something up myself at a fraction of the cost. It looks like my trailer may have had some guides on it at some point given these holes (see pic below). Ideally, I would have the horizontal pipe running out of that pipe and use a U-bolt to bolt down through those holes. I tried it last night and I don't think the U-bolts that accommodate 1 1/2" pvc will fit. I may have to run the pvc underneath of the hollow pipe and ubolt from underneath through the existing holes if that makes any sense. Anyone have any other suggestions?
Attachments
-
trailer 1.jpg -
trailer 2.jpg
PointedRose
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Feb 11, 2021
- Messages
- 646
- Reaction score
- 196
- Points
- 43
- Location
- San Francisco
- Model
- Overnighter
Trailer opinions please...
To add to Ekea’s post, the pvc guides help see the trailer when retrieving the boat and backing the trailer when it’s empty.
www.greatgrady.com
Looks like it could be mounts for guides. What is the inside diameter of that box tube?
Some guide tubing is 1 1/2 inch outside measurement. Your current 'receptacles' would have to be wide enough to insert the1 1/2 tube with enough room for the u bolts to hold it in place.
Another option is to install new brackets after removing the old square tubes.
Some guide tubing is 1 1/2 inch outside measurement. Your current 'receptacles' would have to be wide enough to insert the1 1/2 tube with enough room for the u bolts to hold it in place.
Another option is to install new brackets after removing the old square tubes.
Last edited:
Are suggesting to use PVC tubing by itself? If so, that will be a problem. All of the guides that I have seen have a steel core with PVC on the outside as a buffer. PVC tubing by itself is not strong enough and it is also brittle.
No, I have some steel that i was going to put in it, just trying to get it dry fitted first.
I might just bite the bullet and order this...
I've used those for years and have no complaints when launching with a +1. Solo, the front of the boat can drift, but nothing to cause a real issue if you plan well.
Ordered the CE Smith I-beam guides yesterday. Should be here tomorrow. Traveling a lot over the next 5 days, but should have them installed at some point this weekend. Hoping the weather cooperates and I can fish sunday....
Got the guides put on over the weekend and was able to get out for a few hours yesterday. They made a world of difference retrieving the boat. My buddy who has little to no experience behind the wheel was able to coast the boat up on the boat trailer and they kept him right in line with the bunks. Also put about 4 more hours on the boat trolling around the mouth of the Nanticoke River yesterday with some good buddies.
Attachments
-
Grady 1.jpg -
Grady2.jpg
Looks like you got a lot of boat for a little $$. I hope it continues to do well for you.
Your scuppers looks to be at least 5" under water in that photo. Any issues with water coming into the cockpit?
Your scuppers looks to be at least 5" under water in that photo. Any issues with water coming into the cockpit?
So far I'm very pleased with it. No water in the scuppers at all. Batteries are on that side of the boat and me and my 2 buddies were all on that side for the picture as well (each of us 200ish lbs). It runs very "true" and even though I have the tabs working now, I didn't feel the need to use them at all yesterday.
wires38
Member
- Joined
- Apr 17, 2013
- Messages
- 13
- Reaction score
- 7
- Points
- 3
There may be some work but 1988 Grady is a good year. Pull the fuel tank cover, it is best to see underside of tank by lifting it out. Check for pitting where rubber strips touch tank! A new tank is best. (35 years old).
Check the through hull fittings, they crack where the flange meets the shaft. Some of them are hard to service. Inspect the outboard bracket. Check for leaks with a 1/2" x 1/8" bushing in the drain hole and a shrader valve with a SLIGHT amount of air. Spray bottle w soapy water all around the hatches, top cover, and joints to transom. Mark any leaks. Clean any loose sealant. Then use a vacume, on a 1/2" pipe nipple in the drain hole to draw fresh 4200 into the caulk joint as you caulk.
I will be recaulking the bracket and some other hatches over the winter. I was mistaken, the fuel tank hatch is solid, its the hatch behind it that is soft. I think that's where the freshwater tank was/is located. I'll find out when I pull that hatch over the winter to re-core it. As far as the fuel tank goes, I know its probably on borrowed time, but if its lasted 35 years without leaking I am hoping it has enough breathing room that moisture isn't getting trapped on it to cause any issues in the next couple of years. I topped it off after this last trip so its got roughly 100 gallons of non-eth in it. There is no lifting that thing out right now. If it starts leaking, I'll pump the fuel out and put it in my other vehicles and tackle the tank replacement then.
Anyone know if the Offshore came standard with 2 tanks? Mine only has 1 fuel fill and another one that looks like someone did a poor job of glassing over it. I wasn't sure if that fill was for the fresh water tank which I am told was removed from my boat or an old fill from a 2nd tank
After almost 4 decades it's a moot point, now. Things could have been changed many times. If you're curious if you have a second tank or a fresh water tank - you'll need to pull hatches to check.
EDIT: Was there something more to this? Or an underlying reason you wanted to know?
Last edited: