vent window repair

SkunkBoat

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I recently shattered a glass vent window on my 265....long story...I'll spare you...

Luckily, all hardware remained onboard.

I replaced glass with acrylic sheet .220"x24"x18" from home depot.
Project went crazy easy...

I used the other window to trace the pattern with a sharpie. Marked the holes.
Used a 5 1/2"' 24 tooth circular saw..."took the line"
Sanded the edges.
Drilled the holes. (be careful. a bit will grab when it pushes thru) Drill from both sides to make clean hole and avoid problems.
Used a countersink bit to knock off edges.

Lightly glued into hinge piece using 5200. Its what I had laying around. I would suggest something else because the white can be seen thru the clear window.
I used some black liquid neoprene on the hinge which should keep it from rattling.

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drbatts

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Nice work. Those replacement windows in glass are not cheap.
 

DennisG01

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Very nice! Can't argue with the cost, either!

Just out of curiosity, I've heard local glass shops can cut flat glass relatively inexpensive. But I wonder how that price changes when using safety glass?

Want a buy a new tool? Get yourself a "step" drill bit. They are WONDERFUL for drilling into thin metal or things like what you did. They even deburr the edges for you!
 

Greyduk

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Very nice! Can't argue with the cost, either!

Just out of curiosity, I've heard local glass shops can cut flat glass relatively inexpensive. But I wonder how that price changes when using safety glass?

Want a buy a new tool? Get yourself a "step" drill bit. They are WONDERFUL for drilling into thin metal or things like what you did. They even deburr the edges for you!
Dennis, To answer your question, I had to replace the vent window on the 248 that I had. It was broken but all hardware was still intact. I had a piece of tempered glass cut to replace the broken one. It was done through a local company but they had to have it done through their supplier. It cost $160.
 

DennisG01

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Dennis, To answer your question, I had to replace the vent window on the 248 that I had. It was broken but all hardware was still intact. I had a piece of tempered glass cut to replace the broken one. It was done through a local company but they had to have it done through their supplier. It cost $160.
Thank you.
 

SkunkBoat

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Want a buy a new tool? Get yourself a "step" drill bit. They are WONDERFUL for drilling into thin metal or things like what you did. They even deburr the edges for you!

I have two! they were on the boat, with the hardware, and I was in my driveway...
In fact, when I got to the boat I had to use the step drill to widen both holes. Yes, it is the better tool for that job
 

ElyseM

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nothing to add other than it is one of the worst engineering i have seen. especially on a boat. those vents should be aluminum frames and actually split in two so you could run with a smaller top piece open. and they used to have 2 of the T holders in the past on each vent. i know GW isn't going north sea certification, but it really grinds my gears.:)
 
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SeaVee

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Both mine on my 265 have flown off while running . A year or so apart. Had Marine Glass Specialties in FL remake the first one, including the aluminum. About $500.00 or so . Just lost the port one this summer, got some plexiglass in there now, thinking about trying a local glass shop but I still will need the aluminum piece that attaches to the vent window, any suggestions?
 

SkunkBoat

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Both mine on my 265 have flown off while running . A year or so apart. Had Marine Glass Specialties in FL remake the first one, including the aluminum. About $500.00 or so . Just lost the port one this summer, got some plexiglass in there now, thinking about trying a local glass shop but I still will need the aluminum piece that attaches to the vent window, any suggestions?
that aluminum piece is not something you'll substitute easily.
Its a neat design in that it fits in & out when the glass is tilted out past the normal out position.
Of course, that means it falls out if the glass gets past that point...

Lacking the exact aluminum piece, you might frankenstein a piano hinge. Thats what I would try.
 

DennisG01

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Not to get off topic, but SeeVee, do you ever open the windows? Personally, I never have. Another option would be to use some black LifeCaulk and glue a piece in place - basically like a car's windshield. Then run another small bead on the outside to give a smooth appearance.
 

SeaVee

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I do use the windows a lot in the Summer, especially trolling. My issue is I forget to close them when I start running. I’ve only lost them when running. Marine Glass Specialties has the Aluminum pieces and did a great job, just pricey.
 

Hookup1

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Original windows are "school bus glass". Regular glass (not tempered) with plastic sheet in-between. Difficult to drill the hole for the pull so close to the edge. Acrylic (best choice) or Lexan polycarbonate is easy/cheap way to go. Use black silicone or maybe black 5200.

I patterned mine and sent them out to a glass shop in Seattle for tempered glass. There was a minimum and a little pricey but it is the best choice.
 

SkunkBoat

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I do use the windows a lot in the Summer, especially trolling. My issue is I forget to close them when I start running. I’ve only lost them when running. Marine Glass Specialties has the Aluminum pieces and did a great job, just pricey.
I often use the windows while running. Never had a problem. My disaster happened at the dock.
 

JohnP

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How do you get the hinge piece back into the windshield frame without taking the windshield apart? I just bought an ‘89 and the seller had it out already. It feels to right to just pop it back in the slot.
 

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When the plastic closure rod is removed, or broken, the window pops out because it opens too far backward. To replace it, start with the window open as far as possible and slip the two pieces of the hinge together, then close the window forward.
When the rod is reattached, it should no longer pop out of the hinge
 
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JohnP

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When the plastic closure rod is removed, or broken, the window pops out because it opens too far backward. To replace it, start with the window open as far as possible and slip the two pieces of the hinge together, then close the window forward.
When the rod is reattached, it should know longer pop out of the hinge
When the plastic closure rod is removed, or broken, the window pops out because it opens too far backward. To replace it, start with the window open as far as possible and slip the two pieces of the hinge together, then close the window forward.
When the rod is reattached, it should know longer pop out of the hinge

Ok thx. I can see better in the day light now
 

Hookup1

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I have broken mine by leaving one open while trailering and the other one I walked into (Ouch!*$) while open. The local glass shop had the school bus glass and would cut it but wouldn't drill the hole. Apparently too close to the edge. I don't know - that's what they said.

I wound up custom ordering tempered glass versions from a glass shop in Seattle. Tempering is done using expensive equipment and shops will send glass out to be tempered. One piece was expensive. It made sense to order additions ones to amortize the setup. Now I have a few spares!

Acrylic or polycarbonate is ok too. The sun will frost it up in a few years but it's easy and inexpensive. I made my side cabin windows a single fixed pane of Acrylic. Glass guy says the acrylic wears better and being side windows they get less sun.