Wiring on a 1997 228G

[Double Eagle]

Wiring

Very nice job John and clean looking. In the construction trade I deal with a lot of generators and electric pumps for dewatering. Also we make a lot of extension cords. If it wasn't for the electrical grease that I use the plugs on cords would be rusted with in six months. I use electrical grease on all of my connections and wouldn't be with out it.

 

[jehines3]

Thanks Eagle.

I still think it could be cleaned up more, but it was done quickly to get the boat ready for vacation and still needs charger, cathodic protection, and windlass hooked back up.

I do use No-Ox brand grease exclusively and sometimes I do use more than I should so that I can see it, so I know it is done.

I went with trays which was not my first choice, but boxes did not fit. I still need to change to a tray for my 4D house, but I'm thinking of downsizing to a 31 it to save a bit of weight (40 lbs). The boat has the slightest list to port, so this should get her perfectly level.

I hope your project works out well. jh

 

[hoppyray]

Corrosion Block also makes a 16 oz tub of non-conductive dielectric grease
for about $9.00. I have been using Corrosion Block sprays for years for everything around salt water. It's great stuff ! Check it out...

http://www.nocorrosion.com/corrosion-control.htm
Corrosion Block - Corrosion Control and Inhibitor products

 

[hoppyray]

Hey jehines3,

Are you planning to use adhesive shrink tubing on those terminal connectors? :?:

 

[Double Eagle]

Where do you think it is needed???

Personally on mine I think I will use non insulated terminals with an electrical grease a good crimp and then heat shrink. That is just my opinion from my experience in construction.

 

[hoppyray]

You are going to find many opinions on this subject like everyone has said before. :roll:
My thought is to use the tinned terminal connectors that have the adhesive lined shrink on each connector. One wire per connector! All the terminal connectors are crimped with the proper crimp tool and not soldered. When I use a butt connector, I use the tinned adhesived lined ones and also put an adhesive lined shrink tube over the connector and overlap the ends. The fuse blocks and bus blocks that I connect to get the dielectric grease on the connectors and nuts.
I know this is probably overkill but the salt water has no mercy.
I put the link to "delcity.net" on an earlier post. I tested their connectors in a heavy aerated salt brine for almost 30 days. Absolutely no rust and their prices are very reasonable.

#952085 - Ring Terminal, 8 Stud, 16-14 Ga (10 MIN)
Price: 0.33 ea Qty in package: 10


)

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Heat shrink is adhesive-lined and color-coded to industry standard wire range.

The translucent, gauge printed heat shrink allows for visual inspection.

Have a greater pull strength when compared to vinyl or nylon.

Heat shrink terminals protect against corrosion and are waterproof.

Rated to 600 volts maximum, building wire; 1000 volts maximum, 105° C (221° F

 

[Double Eagle]

I don't think it is over kill at all, as long as you feel good about the job that is all that matters. Nice test also. Those terminals look like the ones we have a work, what brand are they? You couldn't be more right talking about the proper crimping tool!! I show this to all of our new guys of any one I see using the wrong tool. I hate seeing someone crimp a connector and then give a tug on it and the wire falls out. Makes you wonder what the rest of the job they done is like. Just an other case of the proper tool for the job!! You just can't say enough about electrical grease either, I use it on every thing even screw threads. it pays big dividends. I will be checking out the product that you are talking about tomorrow at work. Thanks for the info.

 

[jehines3]

Hey jehines3,

Are you planning to use adhesive shrink tubing on those terminal connectors? :?:

I only use that method on anything #8 and larger. #10 and below get a straight crimp with a ratchet set double crimper. If you look at the crimp you can see it is not one of those cheesy auto one size does all crimpers. Ideal makes a very nice on as well as a few others. I used tinned wire and tinned connectors, no problems with corrosion ever. On any OEM Grady wire (which are not tinned) I dip the wire in grease before the crimp.

jh

 

[Double Eagle]

John, that grease you were talking about, I'm having my purchasing guy try to get some for a few of us to try out. We will have to be careful as I see it is conductive and the product that we use isn't. I sure they will both have their place. We do a lot of wiring on equipment and remote control stuff.

 

[jimmy's marine service]

too funny....

hey bobp...did you read any more of this ??? did you learn anything ???

"mountains out of molehills" huh ??? boy i would love to see your boat... :roll:

 

[BobP]

Hey Jimmy, sure I'm reading this post.

I'm impressed, and continue to be so in the recruting. Very effective. Continue on

Personal attacks
Mine is better than yours
Mine is bigger than yours
Bigger is better
More expensive is the only way to go.
Unlimited Free range chest pounding
elaborate cut and paste demonstrations

Where everything else is garbage, time bombs, dangerous, and if not top shelf and per ABYC etc, the fear mongering of it's implied meaning, including -

it's going to burn down to the ground,
sink at sea
set the marina on fire
void all warranties
you will never sell it
loose the war in Iraq
never see another installment of the Bourne Ultimatum.
never get a good night sleep again

Of course some see this as colorful and absolutely nothing wrong.

Others see this as very destructive to sites like this. Drives good regular contributors to the fences and beyond, and keeps potential regular contributor newbies welded to their perches for fear of sharks in the water below.

For me, I sleep just fine even with those Grady non-compliant scuppers below the water line at the marina the whole season long.

I would be pissed off if no more Jason Bourne episodes though.

 

[jimmy's marine service]

interesting...

Hey Jimmy, sure I'm reading this post.

I'm impressed, and continue to be so in the recruting. Very effective. Continue on

Personal attacks
Mine is better than yours
Mine is bigger than yours
Bigger is better
More expensive is the only way to go.
Unlimited Free range chest pounding
elaborate cut and paste demonstrations

Where everything else is garbage, time bombs, dangerous, and if not top shelf and per ABYC etc, the fear mongering of it's implied meaning, including -

it's going to burn down to the ground,
sink at sea
set the marina on fire
void all warranties
you will never sell it
loose the war in Iraq
never see another installment of the Bourne Ultimatum.
never get a good night sleep again

Of course some see this as colorful and absolutely nothing wrong.

Others see this as very destructive to sites like this. Drives good regular contributors to the fences and beyond, and keeps potential regular contributor newbies welded to their perches for fear of sharks in the water below.

For me, I sleep just fine even with those Grady non-compliant scuppers below the water line at the marina the whole season long.

I would be pissed off if no more Jason Bourne episodes though.

let me see if i understand this,reading this mess you call a reply,from it i take,it's ok that your repairs are not in compliance with abyc codes...i mean after all,what would the american boat and yacht council know,and with that,why should you follow the crf's from the coast guard,same deal here,what would they know,right...a genius like you must certainly know better,right... :roll: a loud mouthed,know it all,such as yourself is certainly above any and all regulations...i stand by what i state,and man,i would really like to inspect that hunk of crap you call a boat,you own...how 'bout that... :wink:

 

[hoppyray]

Hey jehines3,

Are you planning to use adhesive shrink tubing on those terminal connectors? :?:

I only use that method on anything #8 and larger. #10 and below get a straight crimp with a ratchet set double crimper. If you look at the crimp you can see it is not one of those cheesy auto one size does all crimpers. Ideal makes a very nice on as well as a few others. I used tinned wire and tinned connectors, no problems with corrosion ever. On any OEM Grady wire (which are not tinned) I dip the wire in grease before the crimp.

DoulbeEagle&jehines3,

Do you use regular grease or the dielectric grease when you crimp the connectors? I had not considered adding grease to the connector prior to crimping on OEM Grady wiring. I have used the Corrosion Block dielectric grease on the connections but not on the wire prior to crimping. Most of my wiring appears to be original and I am trimming back to clean wiring if I can. I know the best method would be to replace them with new wiring but is there any good solvents that would help clean the connections prior to crimping?
What do you think too, Jimmy?

 

[Double Eagle]

I use a product called De-Ox. I have used it for seven years in the construction field. I wouldn't be without it or something like it. Seeing is believing!!! Yes I do put it on wires before I crimp them!!!

 

[jehines3]

I dip the end of any non tinned wire in No-ox after the strip and prior to the leg and crimp everytime. The No-ox lives in my toolbox. I use on pretty much everything electrical. It makes removal of quick connects a breeze like on VHF and my FF which have a factory molded quick connect. jh