Looks like some of my wires!!! I have my fues box and mu buss bars ready to mount. Then I will start cleaning up some wiring.
That looks awesome. I woudl suggest picking your wiring routing now based on what items are going to stay. All future additons should follow these same routes and you will have a bad a$$ boats where it counts (unfortunitly where no one ever sees). jh
Are you doing the BEP 717-100 Cluster? I can't stress how awesome this thing is.
EDIT: if you are this is where I got mine (cheapest I could find.)
http://www.mysticmarinediscounts.com/bep-717100a.html
EDIT: if you are this is where I got mine (cheapest I could find.)
http://www.mysticmarinediscounts.com/bep-717100a.html
Since your Johnsons are like mine the ability to combine the 50A alternator outputs without voltage drop accross an isolator is a huge benefit of the ACR's. I've never had a problem with Low voltage alarm since I changed to this system. I also do not run my radar when I'm trolling though unless I need to find some stinkin' birds (AKA: desperate to find fish for the box). Use caution I've had some chatter on my ACR's due to my very large house battery. If it is not fuly charged on your run out once trolling it can get tricky, I will turn some stuff off to keep the chatter down though. The BEP site suggests using a GRP 31 for my house. Once my 4D goes out I'm going with GRP 31 Deep Cycle. It has to do with the relay cut out at 12.8V. If you want to know more about it let me know, but this is not a problem with BEP, it is just the inherent design limitation on ACR's. You will be very impressed with the system. I have though about adding an emergency bypass around one ACR, just in case, but to move over a positive lead of I had to is possible as well if a real pinch. jh
It can be found here.
http://www.bepmarine.com/store/web/Cata ... A_Inst.pdf
It has to do with the house battery pulling down the start battery to the cut out voltage of 12.8V. There is good information in the document. jh
http://www.bepmarine.com/store/web/Cata ... A_Inst.pdf
It has to do with the house battery pulling down the start battery to the cut out voltage of 12.8V. There is good information in the document. jh
Nice work NA2P.I just finished the wiring in the front part of the grady and now I'm going to start working in the back of the boat.Battery switches bilge pumps washdowns etc.The wiring on my Grady was a mess so i just ripped everything out and rewired it.Do you have any pics of what it looked like before you powerwashed it?
Pete, looks awesome. Don't forget those negatives for the ACR's, they were the only thing I needed red lugs for. They can mount right to that bus bar. The convienience is overwhelming when you add that negative bus...jh
NA2P said:Started to drill and mount the new rear bulkhead area electronics. I still have more work to do. The the bulk..harder things..well nothing is ever that hard.. is pretty much done. I do need to mount the BEP Maxi fuse holder that will carry a 40 amp fuse on the feed from the house switch to the added fuse panel in the rear. I have 35 ft of 4ga red and black Ancor which I will start laying out and crimping on the lugs tomorrow. Here are some pics of the progress so far..not bad for a 1/2 days work.
Battery switch with fuse panel and buss bars.
Added rigging tube to run start battery cables over bilge area. Notice the 2 new Racor fuel filters with the Floscan sensors installed.
New 3-way for livewell/washdown...yeah yeah I know everyone wants it kept seperate. I could care less if I have baitfish in the well I will reach over with a pail for water. Maybe at a later date I will add a 2nd pump. Notice the new lever direction plate.Yeah I am sick.
2 battery trays on the port rear for the start batteries.
Battery tray for house battery on the starboard side rear.
Wide shot of transom/rear bulkhead. Looking good to me.
A ProMariner 300 charger that will be mounted above the rig tube in the center. This will be the last thing mounted and wired into the BEP battery switch.
i mean no offense,i'm just pointing out a few things here...so don't start beating up on me...
first...the 3rd picture...that hose,the clear tube with fiber in it ?? is that hose from the thru hull to the pump and from the pump to the valve ???if so,i highly reccomend you throw away that hose and use certified exhaust/engine intake hose on that connection...that hose in the picture,it can and will blow out...if you've got a high speed pick up on the bottom of the hull,water is forced up that pick up,there's gonna be pressure there when you're running...that's why the water exits the washdown outlet when you're running and the pump is off...trouble there big guy...next...you've got plastic fitting threaded into a brass 3 way valve ?? asking for trouble,the plastic fittings become brittle...use bronze...
picture 6...it shows what happens when an aluminum surface isn't etch primed...look at the fuel tank,it's peeling...etch prime,my friend,etch prime...
the standard grady circuit breaker,i see it's still there...are you really gonna use that ???