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FYI, there are a bunch of tips by the OP already in this thread.

That's fiberglass - that's how it was built. Bad glass layup - but depending on the extent of it, it may really just be cosmetic. It will be interesting to see what you hear from your dealer after they get in touch with GW. But, there's nothing inherently structurally wrong with the exposed...

Thinking about this more... it actually might be REALLY good to use screws and finish washers here........ given how non-non-skid the area is now after decades of being in the sun! This would be a good project to fix the non-non-skideness.... fill the holes flush and do not worry about...

OK, so the ones to focus on asap are the ones where there is wood inside - such as the top of the transom and the vertical sides of the transom (the wood is likely somewhere around 2" thick, give or take). Easy enough to check, though. For those top holes, you could go real easy and use screws...

Depends on where they are and what you want it to look like when you´re done. Sort of sounds like you´re talking about where the coaming pads would have been? More detail or pics will help guide answers.

Very nice! Beautiful lake there in Damariscotta! I also have close relatives on Friendship Long Island and in Waldoboro.

Wanna step up your game? Use Tef-Gel - it's light years ahead of grease for this purpose. :)

Only "mostly appreciated"? Geesh :p :) Local hardware stores carry SS screws. Glad to see it's working out for you.

I missed that part... even easier!

It is meant as friendly, yes :)

Cushions... it's probably a VERY long shot to find good used ones. Just get them made locally at an upholsterer. Cupholders? Those are a dime a dozen at nearly any halfway decent marine store near you. If you don't want to go local, just measure the size of the hole and match it up to...

Oh, no worries. Looks like you figured out the length easily enough - although that grommet looks pretty long so you don't need to go through the whole thing. As for the diameter of the screw... easiest thing to do is to just try a few different sized screws. Look for something that bites...

It's kinda hard to make sense of the pictures, but it appears to be, like Skunk said, rubber well nuts. And there are holes in the deck hatch that align with the well nuts? Wouildn't it just screw down? If the well nuts are threaded, use machine screws... if the well nuts are not threaded...

Good stuff to think about... but I'm willing to bet that they come right off. Why not just go try it before talking about it for 3 days? :) The acorn nut should come right off. The regualr nut might even come right off. If it just twists, then have someone hold the screw head - as noted...

Just out of curiosity, where 'bouts in Maine are you? I have a vacation home in Cushing (near Rockland).

Understood - and fair points.

Up on plane - got it. Thanks for the clarification. Hmmm. With an engine trimmed fully down (or nearly) it's quite common for all (or at least most) planing style hulls to experience a list due to having too much hull in the water (too much drag). But it should level out once the engine is...

Where do you have your motors trimmed when this is happening? What does "underway" mean? Meaning, be as specific as you can.

Sort of along the lines of above... a moisture meter does not a surveyor make. Too many variables involved and possible lack of knowledge to blindly trust some survey. Just a quick example... was the survey done right after pulling the boat and right after a rain? Best thing to do is to get a...

There 'ya go.