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I have a solution for you if you need a trim tab kit. I've been trying it on Facebook with only a couple of bites: https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/6275607672518212/

Use your starting battery to travel. At destination, switch to other battery. When leaving, doesn't matter really which battery you start the engine. If it starts with the dual purpose one....all is good. Run on that battery back to home. Don't overthink this whole thing.

It's 21 years old! Don't forget that. I had a 190 Tournament I sold a few years ago with a 150 Yam for $9500.00. $15K is just a dreamer's price, especially with a 130 hp and a poly tank. Original tanks were metal. $9000 would be more reasonable price.

On my fresh water pump, there is a round container close to the pump on the outfeed line. I unscrew the cap on this round container and there is a metal screen/filter inside...usually covered with green slime. Rinse it off, put back, and fresh water shower sprayer on stern of boat works...

I use Eagle One tire shine as the last step. Available at NAPA.

I was just looking at that same product yesterday! Thanks for the post.

I have been using a 3 step process for a long time: #1 Flex XC3401 with orange foam pad and Collinite 920 hull cleaner #2 Flex XC3401 and Flex XFE 7-12 with orange pads and Marine 31 Final Step Polish #3 Hand apply with small foam pad Marine 31 Gel Coat Carnauba Wax & Sealant. Reality is...

It is a Napa Marine Duel purpose battery. I disconnected the battery from the quick connect for several days..no change in the water level in that forward bilge. I don't know where the water is coming from in that area, unless it's from the anchor locker and cupholders. I average about 150...

This past summer I noticed that my Rule Automatic bilge pump cycled on and off alot. This in turn caused one of my batteries to die after just two summers. It seems like just a small amount of standing water will cause this. I've been thinking about trashing this pump and go with a non...

I use to own a 1991 Tournament 19. Dash looked the same as yours...beat up. I found a sheet of graphite looking dash panel like the pic on the right above f rom J Adams1. I purchased ALL new switches and covers and rewired t he whole thing. go to www.newwiremarine.com for some products you...

Check the vent tube cover on the outside and the vent tube connector on the inside.

I started using a Simrad GO7 last summer. At first I didn't think I would like the touchscreen, but I am use to it now. I made a small box, bought another power cord and a AC/DC converter and now am able to take the whole unit inside and work on maps, etc.

Last year I bought a Simrad GO7. Love it. Got it at West Marine for around $500.

Last year I bought a Simrad GO7. Love it. Got it at West Marine for around $500.

In the future, you might want to consider replacing your sending unit (if it is the original type) with a WEMA unit. The WEMA units are more accurate than the old ones with the pivoting arm with float type. http://wemausa.3dcartstores.com/Fuel-or ... n_p_9.html?

Contact Wise Seating Company https://www.wiseseats.com/marine-hardware--accessories

No. Not enough power. I've had a 200 and a 150 on my 190. A 115 would get it up on plane, but would be slow with 4 people. Sometimes you just want to go fast in a boat and it won't happen with that engine.

Not able to take a pic now. Boat is still being worked on.

Primer filler applied. Gelcoat next.

Last summer I noticed that one of the drain holes in the motor well was recessed behind the outer skin. This was a clear indication that I had water intrusion inside my transom. I am the original owner of this 1991 Tournament. In February, I decided to take advantage of the lower winter rates...