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I agree with seasick. Should put a fuel pressure gauge onto the vst while at high speed. If fuel pressure goes down while wot, then pump the ball. If pressure does not come back, the high pressure pump screen is clogged. Also could be the little filter at the pressure regulator. Could be fuel...

Ask for Joe. Tell him sparky sent you. I have been using him for all my fabrications for the past 25 years at my boat shop. He can copy your old one n save you a ton of money.

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I would not recommend a poly tank. Aluminum is much better when it comes to condensation control and warpage. Poly tanks end up with water intrusion after a few years. The top caves in and holds water leading to corrosion of the sending unit. Then water starts pouring in. I deal with that a lot...

My suggestion would be to raise the bow up in the air and pump out all the gas. Replace the gas with non ethanol gas. Use a racor fuel filter (b32013) to protect any water or dirt from reaching the motor. This filter is the most effective filter on the market. I order these filters for my...

This works great on my boat

Check to be sure valve timing is correct. I’ve seen that engine’s timing belt jump a tooth.

One clue to figuring out your hose length is to check the length of the control cables. The length is stamped on them approximately 18 inches from one of the ends. Should be real close to the hose length.

I used the aluminum to strengthen my hard top mounts to the cabin. I was always chasing leaks. It is rock solid now an aluminum is a lot cheaper and will give you plenty of strength. You can drill it later a lot easier than stainless if you decide to add extra rod holders.

I used the aluminum to strengthen my hard top mounts to the cabin. I was always chasing leaks. It is rock solid now. I had tried poly board but it cracked in less than a year.

Fishing is still good in Florida. Still catching lobster in the keys and hotels are cheap. Water is still 84 deg. Common down.

Metal backing plates are the ticket. HDPE will flex, dry out and crack. Been there done that with Gunnel outrigger mounts. The 3/8 to 1/2 inch thick aluminum back plate worked great.

Another suggestion is to drill a few pinholes near the corners and use a small piece of stainless airplane wire to lock it into place while the 5200 underneath can set. It is like a stainless bread tie. Glass and trim must be cleaned with acetone. Twist the wire tight with needle nose n tuck...

That particular unit can be removed without removing the engine off the boat. In fact, if you are slick, the center ram can be removed without removing the trim unit. First, Take the pressure off the ram cap by loosening the manual relief screw. Be sure the engine is on the tilt stand. Then...

Sounds like your motor needs to be checked. That prop should turn at least 5200.

I would first give the nut a final tightening to see if the play goes away. Sounds like it is a half turn shy of where it should be. This may save you a few bucks. If it has been properly serviced, there is a good chance that it does not need to be replaced. First loosen it a half turn then...

The old snow bowl toilet cleaner was the best back 10 years ago before they changed the formula for the waterline.

The product that I have found works well for the waterline stains Is rust aid from Home Depot. It is much cheaper than on off and works just as well. For the black streaks, I use oil eater (usually a 50/50 mix with water. It cleans the black steaks and the oily finger marks up great off your...

Looks like steering fluid