265x with a bow mount trolling motor?

DennisG01 said:
Oh my, those are 1/2" bolts? Holy overkill, Batman :) 1/4" is more than enough. But going bigger is never bad, either.
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They are 3/8 bolts, 1/2" hex head...and a washer...
DennisG01 said:
But even doing as your sketch shows, just adding the L-channel across the "flex" area will help quite a bit. It will create a new flex area (hinge) where it ends - but it's going to be closer to the load point so there will be less stress on this "hinge".
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The bad sketch was to show eventual welded 3/8" verticals along the edges of the plate. The added part goes both over and under the plate(once it overhangs the pulpit)
The added part can be under the Kraken all the way to the far end.

DennisG01 said:
Could you move the TM forward a little bit on the plate (if there's enough mounting holes still in the TM plate for adequate support)? This would allow at least the aft L-channel to be full length... and, likely, you would only need that one.

I like threads like this - it's fun to see how someone else does something and adding those ideas into my "mental toolbox" :cool:
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The Kraken can't move. It has to overhang the way it does.
 
The Kraken 90 was just delivered. This thing is massive!
 
Minor point, but you don't need a washer when using something like 1/4" plate - and especially 3/8" plate. The plate IS the washer. And a C-channel (or L-channel) is another washer since it sits on the plate.

Sketch... Ah, OK - I see what you're talking about, now. The "top" and "bottom" vertical 3/8" plate will share at least a few inches of the horizontal plate... thereby by eliminating the "hinge" issue. Perfect.

Release the Kraken :)
 
DennisG01 said:
Minor point, but you don't need a washer when using something like 1/4" plate - and especially 3/8" plate. The plate IS the washer. And a C-channel (or L-channel) is another washer since it sits on the plate.
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I prefer tightening hex head against SS rather than softer aluminum.
 
I still haven't cleaned up the life rail (I was in the Navy. "Its a Life rail not a hand rail" )

I bought SS end caps thinking it would be easy. Bought 2 sizes thinking one will fit pipe and one may fit the drop fitting.
Neither worked in any place. Either to big or too small. I don't understand it...

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Wall thickness of the metal tubing can vary - which of course affects the ID. Your boat might have the ticker wall thickness? Taco Metals is a big supplier for tubing - I'm not sure if they have fittings, though.
 
Next time you are at the boat Skunk, can you snap a picture of the Kraken stowed? 104” is long and it looks tight going straight back as you have done or on one side or the other going across the bow if you will.

Also, If I go mounted to the pulpit like you, I was thinking of the offset product from sea brackets. It’s only 1/2” thick though so your experience with flex at 3/8 has me nervous.

If more on the side behind the light the shuttle slide looks interesting because it could slide out to get past the rub rail. That has it going way far across the bow to darn near, if not past, the opposing “life rail”.
 
You know how you think you took a picture of something but you never did. Here’s the closest thing on my phone. I will get a better one Friday

I didn’t find any other place that didn’t block the nav lights or cleats or anchor locker or anchor or cabin hatch

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