Update on engines....back to the drawing board lol

The only 100% check is to put it in the water. The water level will be higher than you could reasonably get it using a bucket/trough. Good chance you are worried about nothing. I went through a similar exercise several years ago and finally quit worrying after many hours underway and another water pump change. If the temps are good, the cooling system is good. I hooked up my motors to NEMA2K bus and my Garmins tell me real temps.
 
wspitler said:
The only 100% check is to put it in the water. The water level will be higher than you could reasonably get it using a bucket/trough. Good chance you are worried about nothing. I went through a similar exercise several years ago and finally quit worrying after many hours underway and another water pump change. If the temps are good, the cooling system is good. I hooked up my motors to NEMA2K bus and my Garmins tell me real temps.
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I am not sure I agree. You can get a pretty good idea of whether the motor is cooling correctly with usually muffs and enough water flow or using a large tank. For many, launching and then hauling can be a burden and an unneeded expense just to find out that your new pump is not working.
With regard to the water level being higher, as long as the pickups on the LU are under water, there is really no difference from being in the water
 
My 330 is on a lift and I always allow the water level to get over the water pump level before starting the engines. My theory is that then the pumps don't have to suck water from the pick ups which are quite a bit lower than the pump impeller. The impellers don't work efficiently with air and, in addition, covered in water they will be lubricated with water upon start as opposed to the water level being at or below the anti-ventilation plate which, on my LU is below the impeller level. I agree that muffs should force water up into the impeller, but just submerging the LU enough to cover the pick up is, in my opinion, asking for the pump to prime itself with air and could cause excess wear on the dry pump. My F250s even have the low water pick ups which are maybe as much as a foot below the impeller. I would never consider starting my engines with only the low water pickups submerged. Once primed, it may make little difference, but only a slight suction head might reduce the efficiency of the pump. When on a plane, I feel the pick ups are designed to provide some degree ram pressure to reduce the suction side requirement. Well sealed muffs, on the other hand, might help pressurize the system and give a false sense on efficiency. Just my thoughts. Best of Luck!
 
Oh, not frustrated, really...just more fun when you have someone else to help hand ya tools or talk to heh. I am in this for the long haul, I just get tired climbing in and out to turn on the water, grab a tool etc, heh..If something is not working and I cannot afford to fix it, I will work on something else till then, not a big deal.
So, I was looking for a large container than realized I had one already. I just ran out of time to set it up. Wife went out of town this morning so I am cleaning house and getting the kids ready for school tomorrow. Then, tomorrow is work and scouts after work, so a full day. Hoping for good weather after work one day this week to get the bucket under them. Worst case, it needs a real mechanic, not a big deal. I have all sorts of things I want to work on so, it will eventually be an awesome boat , heh

I need to plan a budget for a nice cover and the cockpit enclosure once I get her running well:p

Anyway, busy day. Thanks for the input and ideas. Will let you know how it goes by Saturday, I hope heh
 
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wspitler said:
My 330 is on a lift and I always allow the water level to get over the water pump level before starting the engines. My theory is that then the pumps don't have to suck water from the pick ups which are quite a bit lower than the pump impeller. The impellers don't work efficiently with air and, in addition, covered in water they will be lubricated with water upon start as opposed to the water level being at or below the anti-ventilation plate which, on my LU is below the impeller level. I agree that muffs should force water up into the impeller, but just submerging the LU enough to cover the pick up is, in my opinion, asking for the pump to prime itself with air and could cause excess wear on the dry pump. My F250s even have the low water pick ups which are maybe as much as a foot below the impeller. I would never consider starting my engines with only the low water pickups submerged. Once primed, it may make little difference, but only a slight suction head might reduce the efficiency of the pump. When on a plane, I feel the pick ups are designed to provide some degree ram pressure to reduce the suction side requirement. Well sealed muffs, on the other hand, might help pressurize the system and give a false sense on efficiency. Just my thoughts. Best of Luck!
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Good point about the low water pickups. If running on muffs you may want to tape over the lower pickups
 
So, did not get to it.. lol.. Wife went out of town and the kids kept me busy. I have one of these:


I plan to set it up under the engine and it should allow enough of the engine to be submerged (Yes, I will have water running into it while I am testing it.. heh).. and should allow me to test the flow.

Could not find anything at HD or Lowes this weekend, albeit McCoys was closed so...

R
 
Problem with big tubs is, they are a PITA to move or empty, unless they have a drain. Measure from the ground to the top of your AV plate before you start, and put something under the skeg, to prevent punching a hole on the bottom of the tub.
I sewed myself up a triangular flush bag, with a 4" zipper for a drain.
 
RussGW270 said:
Okay, I flushed water through the connection...

side note, that is something I like about Yamaha. The mercs did not have that, albeit I loved the switch on the motor that let me adjust the trim without climbing in and out of the dang boat over and over lol..

so, water came out the pee hole when I flushed with the connection.

so, only way to really test this is a large bucket or drop her in the water.

R
Click to expand...

Russ, unclear which motor doesn't have tilt/trim switch on the side. I thought all larger Yamahas had it. My '93 does.
 
I plan to have a drain plan ahead of time.. lol.. and I planned to set the tub on top of some bags of mulch I had, to prevent it from deforming and buckling.

I have a 2003 and a 2004 TXRB and C. I have not found a button to trim them on the engines, perhaps I missed it.. heh, totally possible. I am used to the height difference .. lol. I planned to make some sort of stand to allow me to work around the boat and engines in the future. I have the area where she will eventually be stored, it is about 12ft x 37-38ft. I plan to cover it and was thinking of adding a couple feet to build a platform off the back, we will see.

R
 
I am 99% sure you have a rocker switch to trim engine right below the gasket on the cowling. Mine is on the port side, more towards the front.
Look for the switch here, at the 32 second mark.

The tub will deform less on a flat surface, than on bags of mulch.
 
Russ, I didn't think your gearcase has "low water pickups", but it was mentioned above so just double check. In addition to the pickups you already know about, look under the front of the gearcase (the "torpedo" area). Just see if for some reason you have a second set of intakes there. As mentioned, if you do, just put tape over them - otherwise, you're losing water or pulling air in.

I'd be REALLY surprised if you didn't have the trim button on the lower cowling. That would be strange. Maybe it was that third Jack and Coke that got in the way of you seeing it... :) It usually does for me, anyways!
 
lol!

I probably missed it. Remember, I am used to a single engine, more head level... so, I keep looking at the Starboard side of the engines, where mine used to be.. I bet you all are right and I was simply looking in the wrong place ;)

I will look for the intakes. I will also get a short video of what I am seeing. I do not have the experience you all have with Yams, used to Mercs.. so, learning a lot, but I do not feel comfortable enough yet.

I also keep finding stupid things one of the previous owners did.. like leaving the plastic cowling off the top of the flywheel on one engine.. stuff like that is just sloppy work, imo. Need to order one of those.

R
 
Okay, so I looked on the port side of both engines and did not see where there was any trim buttons/controls. I had to go to a scout meeting so did not have daylight or time to check under the cowling to see if you had to remove that to access it though. I will check that tomorrow. I found where it looked like it might go, but that also could just be an access cover for a bolt, not sure.

going to take the manual with me to work tomorrow and see what it tells me.

Russ
 

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Well hell, that pretty much nails it. There are “blanks” both port and starboard where the switch would go.

The “good news” is, I should be able to add them aftermarket, just annoying.

That being said, it’s really a small inconvenience,not a show-stopper.

Thank you guys for the great videos.

I have new fuel filters and plan to order the rest of the 100 hour kit this weekend. Looking to maintain these puppies as long as possible.

On a side note...while it can be frustrating as heck to deal with all of this, I think we can all agree, my stress level went down knowing my wife is not rolling her eyes through all this lol. We discussed the issues, and there is not a “You had to have the boat...” discussion heh...and we know we have a plan to keep this long term, so it is more about how to get there and what can we do, in the meantime, to get her back in the shape she needs/deserves....the boat...lol.

The great discussions here help as well;) If I cannot drive her, at least I can talk about her.

Again, the boat, lol
 
I can't imagine why someone would remove the switches. More importantly, if the cutouts were left open, water can splash and enter the motor compartment. If you are lucky, you may find the switches laying in the bottom of the cowling. Perhaps someone popped them put to remove the lower cowling and 'forgot' to put them back. Hope so, those switches are about 50 bucks a piece
 
They are not open, they are sealed, see the picture up above. I have no idea why they are not there, but a fairly easy add

R
 
My 2007 LF250 has the switch on the port side and my F250 on the starboard side. Not sure why they configured it that way.
 
I just run mine on the flush fitting - the little female hose connector right under the cowling. Any reason that isn't mentioned as an option?
 
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