Windlass - opinions please

SAABseanSCANIA

New Member
Joined
Aug 13, 2018
Messages
3
Reaction score
0
Points
1
The original Simpson Lawrence Horizon 500 on my 265 died last summer, it was there when I got the boat and I'm assuming was a factory installed option so it had 14 years of life on it. Not a lot of complaints, it worked when I needed it to (up until that last time) but was power up/power down, and while it seemed to have good pulling power it was somewhat slow. Motor was still good but something in the gears was binding, couldn't get the topmost gear off to get underneath and see what was happening but I'm guessing water intrusion and some corrosion over time bound things up. In any case, it came off and I ended up replacing it with a Lewmar ProFish 700 for three reasons - 1) same horizontal type as was there, 2) it has free fall which the old did not, and 3) West Marine had them at 30% off a while back and that was too good of a deal to pass up. Given the stay at home order in MD this is one more thing new to the boat that I haven't been able to use yet but I'm impressed with the build quality and finish, it's about double the size of the old 500 and feels like so much more windlass.

The original wiring, again assuming it was factory given the professional looking labeling on the wires, was 6 AWG that runs back to the 50A breaker and switch assembly at the helm. For the Simpson it was stepped down to what looked like 10 AWG, the Lewmar came rigged with 8 AWG. I'll get back on the boat and trace out the wiring from the breaker to the source, I'm guessing it's direct to the battery but I'm honestly not sure.

Installation was fairly easy. The starboard in the picture is not load bearing, windlass is through bolted through the starboard, the pulpit, and the bow; but I wanted something to 'reset' the base after I filled all the old holes as the new windlass wouldn't cover them all so the starboard serves to hide the uglies as well as provide a secondary layer of protection against water intrusion. Hardest part was reaching far enough into the anchor locker to get at the forward bolt.
View attachment 12488

That looks fantastic, great job. The factory roller worked fine with the open bail? Is that a Lewmar 22# delta?
 

Fowl Hooked

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 4, 2007
Messages
203
Reaction score
53
Points
28
Location
Southern Maryland
Model
Express 265
That looks fantastic, great job. The factory roller worked fine with the open bail? Is that a Lewmar 22# delta?
Thanks. It is a Lewmar 22# delta. I donated my original to Chesapeake Bay rock pile a few years back and replaced it with a 14# as recommended for the boat size but felt it was a bit undersized so I moved that one to my duck boat and put on the 22 pounder, very happy with it. They all three worked okay with the roller except that probably 3 times out of 4 I have to put a little slack in the chain and then go forward and manually 'trip' it over the edge. Once it tilts everything is good and there are no issues when retrieving the anchor. Would like something that fell consistently without assistance but haven't located anything yet that would also fit the relatively narrow channel where the current one is embedded. For the few times a month that I use it it's not been a big deal and remains low on the upgrade list.
 

SkunkBoat

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 12, 2017
Messages
4,137
Reaction score
1,435
Points
113
Location
Manasquan Inlet NJ
Website
www.youtube.com
Model
Express 265
The original Simpson Lawrence Horizon 500 on my 265 died last summer, it was there when I got the boat and I'm assuming was a factory installed option so it had 14 years of life on it. Not a lot of complaints, it worked when I needed it to (up until that last time) but was power up/power down, and while it seemed to have good pulling power it was somewhat slow. Motor was still good but something in the gears was binding, couldn't get the topmost gear off to get underneath and see what was happening but I'm guessing water intrusion and some corrosion over time bound things up. In any case, it came off and I ended up replacing it with a Lewmar ProFish 700 for three reasons - 1) same horizontal type as was there, 2) it has free fall which the old did not, and 3) West Marine had them at 30% off a while back and that was too good of a deal to pass up. Given the stay at home order in MD this is one more thing new to the boat that I haven't been able to use yet but I'm impressed with the build quality and finish, it's about double the size of the old 500 and feels like so much more windlass.

The original wiring, again assuming it was factory given the professional looking labeling on the wires, was 6 AWG that runs back to the 50A breaker and switch assembly at the helm. For the Simpson it was stepped down to what looked like 10 AWG, the Lewmar came rigged with 8 AWG. I'll get back on the boat and trace out the wiring from the breaker to the source, I'm guessing it's direct to the battery but I'm honestly not sure.

Installation was fairly easy. The starboard in the picture is not load bearing, windlass is through bolted through the starboard, the pulpit, and the bow; but I wanted something to 'reset' the base after I filled all the old holes as the new windlass wouldn't cover them all so the starboard serves to hide the uglies as well as provide a secondary layer of protection against water intrusion. Hardest part was reaching far enough into the anchor locker to get at the forward bolt.

Thanks, great info. My 265 did not have a windlass. There is what looks like 10 gauge factory wire up there which doesn't make sense for a windlass.(maybe for a solenoid switch to control windlass?)
I am 90% sure I'm going to install an ANCHORMAX capstan instead of a windlass....soon...
Reasons;
I wreck fish and get stuck more than I care to admit. (we just broke off a rebar grapple on Thursday...got the rode back though!!!)
I can used spliced 3 strand line without binding
I can get 600' in there if I don't have to worry about fall. Plus, we can push it down.
I can use it if I ever learn to double anchor (and not stick two anchors in rocks!)
Both of my normal wreck fishing crew are experienced. One was a party boat mate and the other is a licensed captain.
We're all in our 50's and tired of hauling up anchors by hand. If we have a capstan, I can move to a #22 instead of the #16 claw I have now
I think if I mount it there where you mounted your Lewmar we can kneel and feed it into the hatch. Thats what we do now pulling the rode by hand.

I'll probably run 6/2 duplex wire
 
  • Like
Reactions: Fowl Hooked

seasick

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 19, 2008
Messages
9,071
Reaction score
1,292
Points
113
Location
NYC
Use one of the many conductor sizing tables to select the correct wire gauge.There is no advantage to run larger conductors than needed. That said, some original installs connect the windlass feeds to the main bus bar at the helm. If that is the case, make sure that the wires feeding that distribution point are sized adequately for the new windlass. Some models draw a heck of a load. In many upgrades it is necessary to run new feed and ground conductors from the windlass relay ( or breaker) directly to the battery compartment (preferably the battery switch and not directly to the battery terminal)
 

Ridge Runner

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 30, 2015
Messages
157
Reaction score
30
Points
28
Very insightful thread. I have been planning to replace my windlass with one that has a free-fall capability. I use 28` of chain, and I am thinking I would power that out, then let it fall... Is there a model that would work for that? Also, the reason I haven't gone to free-fall yet is I have this worry of a knot or tangle flying up into the windlass during free-fall and ripping things apart. Founded, or shouldn't worry?
 

wspitler

GreatGrady Captain
Joined
May 16, 2011
Messages
1,306
Reaction score
289
Points
83
Location
Inglis, FL
Model
Express 330
I have the Lewmar 1000 and there are no worries about it going out too fast and tangling. I guess it could tangle in the locker, but mine never has. I use 8-plait and 30' of chain. The chain free falls fine and if you want to change from power out to free fall, you have to pop a pin in the head of the gypsy out to allow it to unwind the clutch. Means you have to be at the windlass as it cant be done electrically, at least with the Lewmar. I would have no worries about it flying out too fast unless you are backing down at high speed maybe.
 

everwhom

GreatGrady Captain
Joined
Sep 1, 2015
Messages
425
Reaction score
75
Points
28
Location
Cape Cod and Nantucket
For what it's worth I still have the original Horizon freefall on my 2003 330 Express and it works fine. I did have a lot of problems with "hockles" (curls from twisting) with 3-strand, but switching to 8-plait solved that. There's a dog tooth that's getting worn and sometimes won't engage and unfortunately I can no longer get parts, so at some point I'll replace with the 700 as that's what they recommend.
 

wspitler

GreatGrady Captain
Joined
May 16, 2011
Messages
1,306
Reaction score
289
Points
83
Location
Inglis, FL
Model
Express 330
For what it's worth I still have the original Horizon freefall on my 2003 330 Express and it works fine. I did have a lot of problems with "hockles" (curls from twisting) with 3-strand, but switching to 8-plait solved that. There's a dog tooth that's getting worn and sometimes won't engage and unfortunately I can no longer get parts, so at some point I'll replace with the 700 as that's what they recommend.
Recommend the Lewmar 1000 vs. the 700. Standard on 330s of my vintage. Not a huge price difference and parts availability is very good.