228 Baitwell Aerator Addition

If I never have to go "bilge diving" again, I'd be OK with that.

Drove over to boat today, yanked out old transducer.

Thank God for a full charge on the dremel tool. Cut off the nuts inside the hull, then used it under the hull to get the bronze screws out there.

Gelcoat is toast where the old unit was. Will repair that, and fill up one of the 2 screw holes with thickened epoxy using a syringe.

Happy there was no big hole from the old transducer :cool:

Will use 3/4 hole saw to drill hull, and now I have a pilot hole.

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Wrxhoon. Thanks for the pics of the actuator rod handle ends. I have a 226 and have been trying to get a clear view of where they are and how they are attached to the hull. It looks like they put them on 228’s but not 226’s. It is still a pain to access them on a 226, just not as bad as the 228 I guess. I was a little concerned about a metal rod being within contact distance of the battery terminals but apparently that isn’t an issue. There was an earlier thread where someone posted a link to a supplier for them.
 
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This is the diverter valve I have. It is mounted on the wall under my rear rod holders. The knob is on the outsiDe and all hose connections are on the inside. I believe I used longer bolts since my wall is about 1/2 in thick. It was actually factory installed in 1988. I replaced it in 2005 n it is still working great.
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Ordered the exact same just now 2nd day air from iboats (have a few fishing guests coming to visit next month, they would not like a boat full of water). Looks solid :)
 
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Wrxhoon. Thanks for the pics of the actuator rod handle ends. I have a 226 and have been trying to get a clear view of where they are and how they are attached to the hull. It looks like they put them on 228’s but not 226’s. It is still a pain to access them on a 226, just not as bad as the 228 I guess. I was a little concerned about a metal rod being within contact distance of the battery terminals but apparently that isn’t an issue. There was an earlier thread where someone posted a link to a supplier for them.
Does anybody know the length needed for the 228 actuator?
Need to order one, and boat is an hours drive....
 
Are you talking about the lever that opens and shuts the ball valve on the seacock?
 
But. If you don't have the seacock installed your measurement might differ from mine.... Just sayin
 
But. If you don't have the seacock installed your measurement might differ from mine.... Just sayin
Got it,
What you are saying is size does matter o_O
I think it should be close enough, will order anyway.
Thx again!
 
That's my tank Lee. My tank is blue but I took the pic under the cover and looks pink.20200520_114441.jpg
 
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Wrxhoon. Thanks for the pics of the actuator rod handle ends. I have a 226 and have been trying to get a clear view of where they are and how they are attached to the hull. It looks like they put them on 228’s but not 226’s. It is still a pain to access them on a 226, just not as bad as the 228 I guess. I was a little concerned about a metal rod being within contact distance of the battery terminals but apparently that isn’t an issue. There was an earlier thread where someone posted a link to a supplier for them.

Without the rods you wouldn't be able to operate the seacocks in the 228.
The rod on the port side on my boat looks a lot closer to the battery in the picture than actual. If have a good look my battery, terminals are covered but worse case and a steel rod touches one battery terminal nothing will happen.
 
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After I replied I took a second look at your pics and yes, on a 228 you’d have to have 5’ arms to reach the valve because of your livewell. On the 226 we have 2 access panels in the splashwell but it’s still a PIA To operate. Also, you’re right about the metal rods contacting battery terminals especially with the supports properly in place and properly covered terminals. It’s interesting that Grady didn’t at least offer that as an option on the 226 when they were doing it as a matter of necessity on the 228. Anyway, another boat project with associated boat dollars on the list. Normally I can sneak in a lot of these mid cost yearly projects by paying cash at stores but now with the C19 issues, it’s all credit card transactions and “ she who must be obeyed” sees the statement. Not a real big issue but she did make an off hand comment the other day about how much the boat costs have gone up this year.
 
Obviously the doesn't know B.O.A.T. = break another thousand . Well that was years ago these days it's more like $5K.
 
Amen to that. I'm already over $900 on parts needed....things just keep sneaking up.

I would rather spend money upfront wisely than $500 poorly. Bites you in the ass quickly. Been there done that :eek:
 
Things are starting to show up for my project.
Decided on a quick hose attachment for the new washdown.
Will start working on installation next Wednesday I hope.
My truck is in the shop until then, and can't legally tow with the rental I have so I can work on things at my house.
Hope all Grady members have a great Memorial Day Weekend!

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Finally moving forward after enough parts showed up.

Cut a 3/4" hole in the hull, got a layer of Marine Tex on the section where the old transducer came out. Will sand and gel coat down the road.

Drilled holes for the bronze screws that help support the new pick up.

Installed new thru hull into the old live well with plenty of 5200 everywhere. Will water test for leaks tomorrow.

Next step is installing the new Groco pickup and sea cock tomorrow along with the Rule pump that will work both live well and wash down.

Forward progress :)

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Really nice progress today with the help of my neighbor on a few things that made 2 sets of hands easier.

Installed pickup and strainer, along with mounting hardware. tightened nuts down in a star pattern.

Then added the new sea cock and pump. No way to plumb the 2 hoses during this process, so started with one, and added the second by bilge diving and sheer will :eek:

Followed by installing the new wash down pump and hose bib. 2 stainless clamps on every hose.

Checked the live well for leaks~good there.

Installed sea cock remote arm. Bent rod slightly because of sea cock location. Easy reach and functions well.

Next step is wiring, have to wait on a new 2 switch panel New Wire Marine is making for me (I only had one spare switch at the helm panel), I will install it somewhere near the rear jump seats.

Gonna be sore everywhere tomorrow :confused:

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Sweet!!! Coming along nicely.

Boat Yoga will let you know about positions your body hasn't or never, been in. o_O