265x with a bow mount trolling motor?

How did you route your power cable? Is there an easier way to get into the anchor locker than going backwards? The way I see it, I need about 25’. That means I have to go to #2. I don’t want to drill through the anchor locker because I’m afraid I’ll go through the hull!! I appreciate your input
 
Diad said:
How did you route your power cable? Is there an easier way to get into the anchor locker than going backwards? The way I see it, I need about 25’. That means I have to go to #2. I don’t want to drill through the anchor locker because I’m afraid I’ll go through the hull!! I appreciate your input
Click to expand...
The cable on the Kraken reached "just " thru the bulkhead to the cabin. (48" i think)
I mounted a weatherproof box in the cabin on that fwd bulkhead.
I ran the 6awg from Refrig space, thru water heater space, into anchor locker, and up to and thru the back of the box.
I mounted a 60A MRCB breaker switch. The Positive power is swicthed. The negatives are on a separate terminal post in the box.
I'll have to post more detail of that. I think I used 5/16 lugs and terminals.

Screenshot 2026-10-06 at 5.59.45 PM.png

So all connections are in the cabin.

You will need a trolling motor plug and socket because you are going to use a quick disconnect mount.
I would assume you put the socket in the anchor locker(safely) and a plug on the 48" cord. Go in thru the hatch to plug in..

You could put the socket on deck but ...salt water.....
 
SkunkBoat said:
The cable on the Kraken reached "just " thru the bulkhead to the cabin. (48" i think)
I mounted a weatherproof box in the cabin on that fwd bulkhead.
I ran the 6awg from Refrig space, thru water heater space, into anchor locker, and up to and thru the back of the box.
I mounted a 60A MRCB breaker switch. The Positive power is swicthed. The negatives are on a separate terminal post in the box.
I'll have to post more detail of that. I think I used 5/16 lugs and terminals.

View attachment 40133

So all connections are in the cabin.

You will need a trolling motor plug and socket because you are going to use a quick disconnect mount.
I would assume you put the socket in the anchor locker(safely) and a plug on the 48" cord. Go in thru the hatch to plug in..

You could put the socket on deck but ...salt water.....
Click to expand...
Excellent! So you can go through the water heater space to the anchor space. That’s what had me thinking. A lot shorter than from water heater under galley sink via rigging tube to space behind AC panel and then overhead like the nav lights. Long run of big, expensive wire. If your way, I can probably do it with 10’ of #6.
You are correct in that I am putting the receptacle under the anchor rode hatch.
Thanks!!!
 
26x13x.75 6061-T651 is here. Gonna dry fit, drill some holes and have it powder coated white.
 

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How did you handle the cut rail? I found threads with the hinge side. Not much for the other side though. Thanks
 
Electrical potion of the project is complete. Receptacle is in the anchor hatch where it will stay dry. I don’t love that it is flat, but I didn’t want the 3” protruding to where the chain and rode could grab it when I use the anchor/windlass. Battery in the water heater location.

Mounting aluminum plate has been grinded to remove the corners and the edges knocked down. I’ll mock that up on the pulpit with the motor next. Forgot to order an aluminum backing plate so that is on the list too. Both pieces will then be sent for powder coating to a guy around the corner from me. Coming together albeit at a snails pace. Still gotta figure out the cut bow rail. There are parts but they are in Canada and the tariffs are forcing me to buy $200 worth of stuff. I don’t need $200 worth of stuff!
 

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Diad said:
Electrical potion of the project is complete. Receptacle is in the anchor hatch where it will stay dry. I don’t love that it is flat, but I didn’t want the 3” protruding to where the chain and rode could grab it when I use the anchor/windlass. Battery in the water heater location.

Mounting aluminum plate has been grinded to remove the corners and the edges knocked down. I’ll mock that up on the pulpit with the motor next. Forgot to order an aluminum backing plate so that is on the list too. Both pieces will then be sent for powder coating to a guy around the corner from me. Coming together albeit at a snails pace. Still gotta figure out the cut bow rail. There are parts but they are in Canada and the tariffs are forcing me to buy $200 worth of stuff. I don’t need $200 worth of stuff!
Click to expand...
Thoughts...
That breaker switch in the hatch, under the fwd cushion of the bunk(covered with rods), is going to be a pain.

Not thrilled with the outlet position but it is accessible.

Decide if opening and closing a foot of rail on the pulpit helps you in any way and is it worth the trouble.
 
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