Recent content by DaleH

Don't go with a rebuilt powerhead, whether you buy it or do it yourself. They just don't last ... waste of $$ IMHO, but what do I know, my family's only been running > 10 and up to 14 OBs each season for the last 20-30 years ...

The boat that had the corroded SS thru-hull as shown wasn't a GW, but I believe it was a Stamas or Tiara. And sad to say ... but just because a new boat comes with such hardware installed doesn't mean it was the ideal piece of hardware for how it will be used in real life ...

FYI, here's a link to a GREAT article by a noted on-line OB motor guru, Mr. Bill Grannis, that tells YOU how to DIY service your Yam motor O2 sensor: www.boatsetup.com/O2sensor.pdf

One tip ... use marine bronze if there's ANY chance the thru-hull will be immersed in or under the water. DO NOT use SS thru-hulls for such an application! SS is only 'stainless' and when the air is not in contact with it - that is what causes SS to corrode (among other factors). Attached...

Starboard moves a lot with temp changes, so their installation manuals always state the size hole needed for a specific fastener size, to prevent the warpage you're seeing with it ...

FWIW Johnson Pump made the combo washdown/livewell pump that lasted 14-seasons in my bro's GW 23' WA model. They make a high water bilge alarm, using an electronic (read: no moving parts) sensor that can be had for around $58 on-line, if you do a google search for the terms "johnson pump bilge...

FYI, checked my manuals, all my fuel xducers need to be installed vertically. Must be different OEM units (Navman I assume).

Another tip for changing a prop in the water, if one needs too. I keep an extra large green trash bag on hand, put it in inside a huge fishing net, and put it down and up over the OB lower unit ... if we dropped anything ... we didn't lose it. I now have some of those lanyards you can snap or...

Really, horizontal? All of mine are mounted vertically. I find vibration is the biggest culprit, besides not installing after the f/w filter, so mine are wrapped in closed-cell foam that is tie-wrapped to the transom to eliminate/minimize any vibration. One hull is a '92 and the other hull is...

REPLACING: Wema units are the BEST there is! Measure your tank, as WEMA will send you one 1" shorter than the depth inside the tank. OHMS: See Teleflex's FAQ page for troubleshooting, has info on their gauges, as most marine fuel gauges work on the principle where 240 ohms = empty, 100...

Best option price wise, IMHO, would be to buy an aftermarket hydraulic tilt bracket, like those sold by CMC, Cook Mfg Company. I had the one rated to 140hp motors (they make a smaller one) and it was bullet-proof and quite robust in design and components.

I personally would not install any high water alarm bilge switch or storm pump switch using moving parts, like a float arm or such. I prefer the 2-contact totally sealed electronic "water presence" switches like sold by Water Witch. See: http://www.waterwitchinc.com/new/SiteEl ... Water.html

Carb adjustment only ... do NOT throw parts at it!

Basically with a Euro transom, say for a 23' model, you'll get less room of the previous 21' model of that same boat ... but at the price level of a 23' boat. Or simply put, less room - more cost. Less room overall if one counts the 'new integrated pulpit' into the length too. Seriously, not...

...never mind to the wallet $$ :jaw ! :wink: