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Don't go with a rebuilt powerhead, whether you buy it or do it yourself. They just don't last ... waste of $$ IMHO, but what do I know, my family's only been running > 10 and up to 14 OBs each season for the last 20-30 years ...

The boat that had the corroded SS thru-hull as shown wasn't a GW, but I believe it was a Stamas or Tiara. And sad to say ... but just because a new boat comes with such hardware installed doesn't mean it was the ideal piece of hardware for how it will be used in real life ...

FYI, here's a link to a GREAT article by a noted on-line OB motor guru, Mr. Bill Grannis, that tells YOU how to DIY service your Yam motor O2 sensor: www.boatsetup.com/O2sensor.pdf

One tip ... use marine bronze if there's ANY chance the thru-hull will be immersed in or under the water. DO NOT use SS thru-hulls for such an application! SS is only 'stainless' and when the air is not in contact with it - that is what causes SS to corrode (among other factors). Attached...

Starboard moves a lot with temp changes, so their installation manuals always state the size hole needed for a specific fastener size, to prevent the warpage you're seeing with it ...

FWIW Johnson Pump made the combo washdown/livewell pump that lasted 14-seasons in my bro's GW 23' WA model. They make a high water bilge alarm, using an electronic (read: no moving parts) sensor that can be had for around $58 on-line, if you do a google search for the terms "johnson pump bilge...

FYI, checked my manuals, all my fuel xducers need to be installed vertically. Must be different OEM units (Navman I assume).

Another tip for changing a prop in the water, if one needs too. I keep an extra large green trash bag on hand, put it in inside a huge fishing net, and put it down and up over the OB lower unit ... if we dropped anything ... we didn't lose it. I now have some of those lanyards you can snap or...

Really, horizontal? All of mine are mounted vertically. I find vibration is the biggest culprit, besides not installing after the f/w filter, so mine are wrapped in closed-cell foam that is tie-wrapped to the transom to eliminate/minimize any vibration. One hull is a '92 and the other hull is...

REPLACING: Wema units are the BEST there is! Measure your tank, as WEMA will send you one 1" shorter than the depth inside the tank. OHMS: See Teleflex's FAQ page for troubleshooting, has info on their gauges, as most marine fuel gauges work on the principle where 240 ohms = empty, 100...

Best option price wise, IMHO, would be to buy an aftermarket hydraulic tilt bracket, like those sold by CMC, Cook Mfg Company. I had the one rated to 140hp motors (they make a smaller one) and it was bullet-proof and quite robust in design and components.

I personally would not install any high water alarm bilge switch or storm pump switch using moving parts, like a float arm or such. I prefer the 2-contact totally sealed electronic "water presence" switches like sold by Water Witch. See: http://www.waterwitchinc.com/new/SiteEl ... Water.html

Carb adjustment only ... do NOT throw parts at it!

Basically with a Euro transom, say for a 23' model, you'll get less room of the previous 21' model of that same boat ... but at the price level of a 23' boat. Or simply put, less room - more cost. Less room overall if one counts the 'new integrated pulpit' into the length too. Seriously, not...

...never mind to the wallet $$ :jaw ! :wink:

Stainless steel in direct contact with aluminum or other less noble alloy will ALWAYS be subject to "galvanic corrosion", where the ions in the less noble material will precipitate out, thus weakening it. Galvanic corrosion is exacerbated in the presence of an electrolyte, of which saltwater is...

IMHO the changes in the hull profile are there, but whereas the waterline length of a 19' hull is < 17' ... you won't see, by eye, any appreciable difference in the variable V as she runs aft. But a side by side check using a gauge to a datum would show it. Just run it and have fun with it -...

Thanks for the kind words! I "rebuilt" the boat in question and just for kicks, I weighed everything one season before bringing it aboard, since I had my handy-dandy electronic scale that went to 200-pounds with me ... that led me to me recording the weight of all of the new stuff I had added...

Uhhhh ... your total towing load also has to add the weight of the trailer itself, which could be another 1500-pounds to your list. Don't also forget to add for all of the typical gear your boat carries. It adds up! To add to that, no one who trailers regularly has found ANY brand or type of...

Not to a GW, but "if this board allows cross-posting", here's an install of Plasteak on a Parker boat. I am considering doing this to my boat over the Winter and this post makes Pasteak look like the way to go! http://www.classicparker.com/phpBB3/vie ... 11&t=10787 For the record, I own/run...