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As per a previous post I went out and purchased a new horn at the end of last season and went to install it today. When I pulled off the old horn I realized there was probably not enough wire to just attached to the new horn (would have taken the crimp and shrink wrap mod which I don't like...

No towing. Also we live in Brooklyn, NY and fish in Jamaica bay and out in the ocean, but not long runs far off shore.

I have a 95 208 right now but I think we're ready to move up. We fish a ton but also have the wife would like to have a little more room for us to sleep on when we overnight, once or twice a year. I'm only interested in used. I'd like to keep this under 50k if possible. One of my bigger...

My electric horn just stopped working. It looks original. Using a multimeter I confirmed it's getting power. Right now it kinda clicks when you hit the button. One side is getting hot. The screws are all kinda crusty and didn't want to budge when I tried getting further in. I'm wondering...

UPDATE: Success! And by that I mean my boat still floats! With little time this Spring it took 4 trips to the marina to get the plywood properly glassed in. This past weekend I finally grabbed the drill and put a hole in my perfectly good hull. The pick up and seacock went together pretty...

thanks....every project leads to two more.

I have a 95 Adventure 208 and just received a new factory bow pulpit. The pulpit is very Grady White beige. The boat is white. The question is should the dealer have asked what color do I want or was my boat beige in 95 and now faded to white? Thanks, Travis

Anyone have any photos of the underside of their bow pulpit? One of my questions is what sort of fasteners for the chocks? The kit only came with bolts and nuts but where it looks like the chocks want to be mounted (too in board to bolt through the pulpit) it looks screws would be more...

I found a piece of aluminum so I'll be giving that a shot this weekend. I received my new bow pulpit yesterday, yahoo! I guess GW assumes everyone is an installer and doesn't include any sort of directions. I've read online some pretty good notes on what to do. For those that have done this...

I put in a call to GW to see what they suggested. They were fine with mounting on the pulpit and not the anchor locker lid. The deck is made of fiberglassed 1/2 marine ply. Pulpit is cored with a honeycomb type of core material he seemed to be saying. It was his opinion that no backing plate...

My new factory bow pulpit kit will be arriving next week, at which point I will install and start putting on the new windlass. Is this factory pulpit strong enough, as it comes, to support the windlass (Lewmar Profish 700) or does it need reinforcing? If so what has others done to strengthen...

I sent an email to Grady and their response was that the Adventure was not wired for a windlass since they didn't offer it as an option. Another question. Since I'm running 6awg wire how do I connect it to the 10awg coming off the windlass? I've poked around for a step-down butt connector but...

Did you cut the hole for the switch with a Dremel? I'll take a look for wiring. I calculate that I need to use 6awg for the run. Would they have ran something that heavy when built? Thanks, Travis

I'm running the wire for my new windlass and although I've run plenty of wire through the big channel at the batteries to the helm I've never run anything forward of there. What is the best route to get from the helm to the bow? The wires will be 6awg. Also if anyone had any photos or advice...

I just got the windlass and the supplied circuit breaker is a 50amp panel mount, slow blow. I don't have a place to mount on a panel back by the battery. Can I swap it with a surface mounted circuit breaker? The Lewmar circuit breaker is a slow blow, but none of the Bluesea unites say that...

Well I almost gassed myself degreasing the nasty bilge area. My boat ended up laying on it's side in the marina after Sandy, I'm still finding muck in bad places. I got the plywood block stuck to the hull after a good coating of resin. I fiberglassed one coat on the block before it went in...

I need to replace the original 40 amp circuit breaker aft by the batteries. Is this correct type? viewtopic.php?f=2&t=20390&p=125362&hilit=battery+circuit+breaker#p125362 Additionally I am considering adding a Pro Fish 700 windlass and wonder if I should upgrade the capacity of the circuit...

Pulled the motorwell hatches and it looks like the through hull is a doable operation. I picked up the bronze strainer and seacock, 1". We'll start glassing in the wood next weekend. Thanks for the advice and encouragement. Travis

Would you just screw the seacock to the backing plate or drill out and install bolts to come from underneath and through the backing plate? I guess the bolts might hinder tightening down a high speed pick up since it can only face one direction when installed.

Another question. -What determines the pipe size of the pick up and the seacock? Looking on-line there seems to be a wide range of options. Thanks