Search results for query: coosa

I have used Coosa Bluewater 26 board on a few of my projects. Full sheets are expensive but you don't really need a lot of it for a transom and stringer project. If the shop you are using works with Coosa board they should have partial sheets. Overall the cost of Coosa vs a quality marine...

I did the deck hatch on my 1997 268 Islander. Coosa board to the edges. Additional bracing to match otiginal. Epoxy resin. Vacuum bagged. There are a lot of ways and material choices to do this job. Even though the labor is "free" I dread the thought of having to do it over again. Done...

How much drag are you talking about? Even at 30% you are only talking 40 lbs. I would consider backing plates or glass in a long Coosa board in to back it and spread the load. I find it hard to believe that it won't hold up. But just in case use a safety line.

White Nitrile strips 2" x 1/4” using 3M 4000. Need a good permanent seal. Self adhesive is no good.

Thanks for the photo. I saw the middle stringer in the previous photo. I'm planning to do the transom on my Islander next spring. Going to access and repair it the same way you did. There is no movement in it but I have some suspicious cracks under the rub rail. I have a feeling that there are...

...the finish down to the glass fibers. Switching to plastic track and trying to decide what to bed it with. Not going to be 5200 Underside of hardtop. Large squares are glassed in Coosa boar for reinforcement of riggers out to tower aluminum. You can see the repair where the aluminum track was. .

...got back to cleaning up the bulkhead. Complete bulkhead removed out to stringers. Sanded out the old glass tabs and ready to build a new bulkhead. 3/4" Coosa board. Some water collected on top of the foam on both sides. Not sure where it came from. Had nowhere to go. I'm going to install...

...fuel tanks. No leaks. I plan to keep the boat. I'll document the process here. Pulled the hatch. This hatch was rebuilt a few years ago with Coosa board. Looks good and feels solid. Hatch was set with 3M 4000 - kept everything sealed. Some difficulty cutting with blade to get it up. Not sure...

Fiberglast.com is a good source for materials. MESCO marine supply is good for Coosa board but you have to deal thru a marina - no retail. Marine plywood is fine to use. It uses a water resistant glue vs regular plywood. Use a slow hardener for the epoxy. West System 105 resin and 206 slow...

I did the deck core replacement on my 268 Islander. Mine was done with 1/2" Coosa composite material (like a plywood sheet). West System epoxy. 3M 4000 caulk. Read this thread thru to see how it was done. https://www.greatgrady.com/threads/repairing-fuel-tank-deck-hatch-coring.30913/ There are...

That bow pulpit is near me in south Jersey. Interesting thing is that it a new construction bow pulpit. As far as I know Coosa board was not used in GW factory construction. You should ask where he got it from. It's possible that whoever built it may be making other components for GW. That would...

My son works at Lowes as Pro Desk Manager. At one point they had marine grade plywood. Not sure after Covid and supply chain problems but worth a check. They may have to order it. If you want Coosa board Mesco (big marine distributor in my area) has it. Your marina probably does business with them.

...the deck screw holes from the underside. Tape off topside. Fill with resin. Re-drill. This is a big source of water intrusion. I did mine as one piece Coosa board. Good plywood and squares are up to you. I also vacuum bagged the hatch to squeeze together and get air out so epoxy can flow.

Are those backing plates attached to the aluminum tower? Mine were backed but not attached. Repaired everything last summer. Installed new backing plates and bases. Hardtop honeycomb core cut out and replaced with Coosa board..

...had backing plates and wedges to level the riggers. both had cracking top and bottom. I pulled my hardtop, opened it up and reinforced with Coosa board out to the aluminum structure and welded backing plates in. Overkill but they won't crack again! There are a few "no weld"...

Sorry I mis-understood what you are using starboard for. Should work fine. I have used Starboard to replace a few melamine panels that got water damaged. Came out great.

Don't use Starboard. It's not structural and doesn't adhere with epoxy. Use Coosa board or marine plywood and glass it in. Done right done once!

I would use epoxy not polyester for the repair. I used one-piece Coosa board composite. Marine plywood squares are ok too but it should be saturated with resin. I vacuum bagged the Coosa board in to compress everything together and get the air out. Support was added last and glassed in. All...