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I have been using Garys since I saw a commercial crew using it at a marina...

Anyone know the year range grady built the 25's with a single I/O gas big block? Any SeaV2 sailfish models made this way?

Great site! Well done. I stay logged in too, zero issues.

The isolator is for your ground wire. Something has the hot wire swapped with neutral. That is what the reverse polarity is indicating. Try turning AC devices on one at a time to isolate the culprit.

If it has failed, there is a big screw on the side that will release pressure & it will lower.

Just get the lowest mount you can find. You want it angled downward in front to reduce blindspot where you want it least.

If it is off and clean, why not have it powder coated?

That turned out great!

Not correct. 252 is not the same as the 282 or even the 272. Early 272 added euro transom. 1998/1999 the 272 added extended running surface and can float 4 strokes and the added running surface improved handling. Also, the plastic thru hulls changed over to SS. Many improvements including...

Anyone know what year sailfish became sea v 2? I remember seeing a thread here years ago that listed the models and hull changes but can't locate it.

Yep. +10. When that things fails, abandon it. Not a great design by any means using saltwater.

New engines! Nice!

All I can say is don't guess.

You could add a 4th battery, 3rd batt switch and enable combining for all with a charge present without combining via switches. 1 house is not good enough, always need a backup plan. You want to wire pumps to batts individually. If you combine and walk away, it will take only 1 stuck float...

Definitely stay with a bracket boat or eurotransom for best handling, driest on the drift and most room in cockpit, which is the most important part of the boat.

Put a rubber plug in it. Done.

I wouldn't put 8 people on my 28 footer.

Well of course if you have a tight budget the 22 will be cheaper to repower. If you want twins and the associated expense, upgrade that 24 to instead a sailfish. Board both and see what you think.

Up to the handle on multiple locations tells me it is not just water in bilge just settling forward, repeatedly. There are a lot of places a Grady (or any fishy boat) can leak from below or above. Check all of those waterline thru hull fittings/hoses for fishwell drains, cockpit scuppers...

If he can afford a 36 Grady, he can certainly afford a wireless auto-tether but money cannot buy common sense. http://www.autotether.com/