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That entire boat has a deck and cabin built using glass over plywood core.......if its soft near the helm, you would have to replace the wood core from underneath and behind the steps leading down into the V berth.....how soft or springy is up to you if it doesn't bother you......if its the fuel...

batteries mid ship would be good...all the way to the bow will be costly for the wiring and can damage the battery itself from all the pounding.

You'll save a lot of weight going to a single 300, but I like twins for maneuvering and as back up if one craps out for some reason.

Is that thru hull in the last picture new? It looks like the original plastic.....if so, I would change them out....they get very brittle when old and can break easily....happened to me twice...

OK...usually, when a deck is being replaced, the entire deck is removed, ie, both bottom and top skin and core....this is the first I've seen where the outer skin was removed leaving the core and inner skin in place.......if you cut all the way thru and remove everything down to the stringers...

Yes, for $42 it includes the bowl....if you dont quite need it yet, ie you are in winter storage, Defender has a 10% off warehouse sale sometime in March/April

Being that the surface is uneven, I'm almost tempted to suggest putting it back in pieces/squares like original with thickened resin......it may be easier to get better contact than a whole piece.....then put the outer skin back on taking care to get it as flat and in perfect contact as...

http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?pa ... &id=133792

In actuality, both the bottom layer and top layer/skin make it structural when dealing with a core.....the core basically does nothing ..it just spreads the skins apart making them a taller beam........its the inner and outer skins that create the stiffness and carry the load.......without the...

I dont think one layer of biax is going to inhibit anything...after being wet out it's less than 1/16 of an inch......you will need some type of support when you put the wood back in and try and clamp it or add weights to bond it well.....if the bottom is too weak and flimsy, it will bow with...

what are you going back with, wood? coosa? be careful when doing the prep sanding/grinding on the inside skin as its very thin....you will probably burn through a few spots....may need a layer or two of glass before putting in your new core......

That compartment gets wet for several reasons......the pie hole covers on top are very prone to leaking....the screws that hold the deck/hatch cover also leak, and the joint around it and the rest of the deck can leak....condensation is a big yes as well.....when the boat is covered and stored...

other than maybe getting a little fouled from a rich mix, what would happen to the plug from slow trolling?

Peel Away or Easy Off....regardless, you will have to sand the bottom with various fine grits and then polish to get a shiney gelcoat finish...no getting around it.

if youve done the seacast, then you have knowledge and comfort with it......but taking off the cabin isnt easy......how bad is the stringer? how do you know its bad? you can do the tank without gutting the entire boat, but how far do you want to go, a complete rebuild or good and safe enough to...

try these guys http://www.blyriggers.com/

I've done that trip on a high speed ferry in October......it was wndy with steady 20+ knot winds out of the west....we were in 6+ foot seas for a good portion of the trip even though it was an otherwise beautiful day.....I would watch the wind forecast before trying it...its a very nice trip...

I had mine sand blasted years ago....the guy new exactly what was doing and took the years of paint off and leaving a good finish for some prep and bottom coating. But if you want a shiney gelcoat finish, theres not much in terms of blasting that will leave a shiney gel coat...you will have to...

The zinc on those Springfield drives is about a 1x8 or something like that..look at the pictures in the thread......you have to match the screw holes with the zinc or drill and tap your own...just make sure its sitting on bare metal not paint...either mask off the area before painting or sand to...

if the fuel lines are original 94, i would do a fuel line and fill hose change....the e10 will eat the hose from the inside a little at a time and get into your engine...the new hoses should be e10 compatible