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Thanks for the info. I also ran an exterior antenna ... Ended up with a Glomex on the hard top. With a digital signal converter I now pick up 18 channels crystal clear without the amplifier. Before they went digital i couldnt pick up anything in my marina. But I do plan to to replace the Sharp...

FYI... Eddie Rowe from Grady White service sent me a pic of the antenna location... it is directly behind, and attached to, the finished panel the TV sits in. It is H shaped and I doubt its picking up a very good signal from there. He also said I need the digital to analog converter for that TV.

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I'm planning to do some work on my antenna system(may add a Glomex and bypass factory antenna) but I want to try to find the antenna the factory installed first... anybody know where it is located? Also, anybody know if the Sharp 15" TV(LC 15S1U-S) that was factory installed can handle digital...

Good catch... I missed that.

Couldn't agree more!!

Went to the show yesterday and it was a lot better than last year... but dealers still had a limited supply of boats to show. Grady only had a couple of cabin boats... the 360 and 300, may have one other but they concentrated on bow riders and center consoles. Two years in a row and no 330...

The F225's should be fine. I have a friend with 2004 F225's on a 1989 Marlin. I have F250's on mine and when I cruise with him at about 4200rpms he stays close at the same rpm's. On a long cruise (1.5-2hrs) he will start to fall back but that could be the difference in props. To me it's not...

I second the dipstick as the possible cause. Make sure they are fully seated and that the rubber seal on the dipsticks are in good condition.

Devildad... Journeymen and Striperman are correct. The 2011 comes standard with the flush mount option and the electronics box with the door is optional. Three of the pics you are looking at are of my '05 Marlin... those are Furuno Navnet II 10" and 7.5" screens... that is about as big as you...

Well... I finally got the chance to check out the generator again with a volt meter. Tuna Man hit the nail on the head. Panel gets a flaky reading(70-80volts) when on the generator but I am actually receiving between 120-125 volts at all outlets... so I am not going to dig any further or worry...

Same problem here.... I'd give Grady service a call and skip the dealer... let Grady deal with the dealer(unless yo have a very good raport with your dealer). Grady has field teams that go out and make these repairs... they came right to my dock. The shell needs to be free floating just like...

Try Marinco or Hubbell... they are in most catalogs and online.

Brian & Scott... thanks for the additional info. SCott... I'm going to try to get my panel pulled later this week or next and check it with the generator running... but I may try just checking the outlets first... if I am getting around 120v's there I should be OK. Brian... your explanation is...

Scott... thanks for the great info... you may have hit the nail on the head about the "compatibility" factor. I think I will try to check the voltage right at the panel when I get some extra time. I do hope I can use the water heater... that is one of my biggest reasons for buying the generator...

Thanks for the quick response Brian. I'm baffled on this one. Shore power everything looks OK(which also verifies good connections within the system) and when I plug in the 2000i the panel shows around 70v's. I know I was copying your hookup system... ( viewtopic.php?f=2&t=9692 ) and another...

I tried the EU200i generator on my Marlin for the first time this past weekend and my electric panel i the cabin read between 68 and 72 volts. Got out my volt meter and at the generator it read 127.5 v's ... plugged in a 25' 12ga extension cord and got same reading(127.5v) at output end of...

Moving my post of 6/16/11 to a seperate thread.

Thanks for the advice... I have a cover for it and keep it in a sheltered area when not in use.

Joe... I have a 2005 marlin also. The easiest way I have found to prime/remove air locks is to get your head and arms into the access door and remove the a/c water supply line on the output side of the a/c water pump. Then slowly open the raw water inlet... when water starts to come out of the...